Installing a fuel filter

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  • Burton
    Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 4

    Installing a fuel filter

    Good morning - been a splendid run of days up here in Ottawa.

    Last summer I purchased an Alberg 30 with an Atomic 4 engine (re-built in 2008 by previous owner, and all kinds of nice upgrades like electrionic ignition and a closed cooling system).

    Now, my A4 set-up does not include any type of in-line filter. Engine always ran beautifully throughout the past summer. Then, in August after a hard sail in choppy seas I had problems with my carburetor (i.e., couldn't drive the boat in gear unless the choke was pulled out), which I removed and cleaned up, and everything has been fine since. A local mechanic I spoke with suggested that there might be some crud in the bottom of my tank which got stirred up, and that I should install an in-line fuel filter. I have no experience with this type of installation process, and was wondering if there is an ideal position to mount the filter (i.e., level with the tank, or does it make any difference if below or above?) - not that I have a lot of options in that cramped space - and what will happen after installation when I start the engine - won't there be air in the new fuel line and the filter body itself that will interfere with fuel reaching the carb? Should I pour gasoline into the filter before spinning it on to "prime" the system?
  • Dave Neptune
    Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
    • Jan 2007
    • 5046

    #2
    Mount 2

    Burton, I'd mount the Racor type close to the tank and at the same aproximate "level" as the tank. THEN another small inline "pliishing" filter. Note the polishing filter is just a small inline caniser type that mounts just ahead of the carb to catch the "anything it gets" to keep it out of the carb. This filter should only have a carb downstream and/or a preassure gage for ease of diagnosis.

    Also replace all of the lines when doing the work. I have not had any problems priming with the mechanical pump and I have a long "draw" like tne C-30's. Just make sure the fittings and calmps are on the right size barbs for the hose. For the most part priming issues are from air sepage due to a loose fitting/clamp.

    Dave Neptune

    Comment

    • roadnsky
      Afourian MVP
      • Dec 2008
      • 3101

      #3
      Here's a pic of what Dave is talking about.
      The Racor is in the background and the MMI polish filter is the shiny silver thingy below the Facet pump.
      My setup also has a fuel pressure gauge which we like to use around here as it takes all the guesswork out of troubleshooting.

      I have re-located my gauge AFTER the polish filter since this pic, so I'm seeing the reading just before it hits the carb. I prefer that setup better.
      Attached Files
      -Jerry

      'Lone Ranger'
      sigpic
      1978 RANGER 30

      Comment

      • joe_db
        Afourian MVP
        • May 2009
        • 4474

        #4
        Note the metal filter has 2 uses:
        1 - keeps crap out of the carb
        2 - provides a way to get the carb off the engine without cutting the hose. The fuel hoses mold themselves onto the barbs to the extent they will NOT pull off without ripping up the hose. The filter has a smooth barb that does not do this.

        Originally posted by roadnsky View Post
        Here's a pic of what Dave is talking about.
        The Racor is in the background and the MMI polish filter is the shiny silver thingy below the Facet pump.
        My setup also has a fuel pressure gauge which we like to use around here as it takes all the guesswork out of troubleshooting.

        I have re-located my gauge AFTER the polish filter since this pic, so I'm seeing the reading just before it hits the carb. I prefer that setup better.
        Joe Della Barba
        Coquina
        C&C 35 MK I
        Maryland USA

        Comment

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