working toward FWC

[sastanley]

Taking a page from Tom & Neil, I've started preparing my A-4 for FWC. I don't have an HX yet, but while I had good access to the motor this winter/spring, I finally installed the oil filter kit, & shifting to cast cooling fittings wherever possible. I also added a raw water strainer & moved to 5/8" cooling hose throughout, except for that short run of the bypass between side plate & t-stat housing.

I also added studs in the side plate, moved to a 1/2"NPT in the side plate and copied Neil's idea and built & extended alternator bracket...thanks Neil!

The only issue when I finally got the motor fired up yesterday, was some leaks out of the side plate. If you look closely, you can see two drips on the studs flanking the alternator bracket.

I am guessing I need to add some thicker sealant to the stud threads, & maybe the gasket too. I used Permatex #3, but have a feeling it may be a little thin here...#2 in the tube might be a better idea.

Any other thoughts and tips & tricks to cut down the seepage?

Incidentally, the engine runs great! Especially after I could get it to fire long enough to 'power time' it. I had it off about 10 degrees maybe..poor girl was not happy at first! - My other great investment last week, a remote starter switch. I dunno why I waited so long to get one of those!

And here's a little teaser of some of the new electrical work. Nothing is tied up or put away..this was just to get the motor running & make sure the new primary circuit was functional...which it is.

[Al Schober]

If the side plate studs are in properly (JB Weld?) there will be no leakage around the threads. Putting sealant on the outer ends of the studs is a waste of time. As for the gasket, I like to use the blue silicone for water system stuff and would hit both sides of the gasket before putting on the side plate.

Al

[sastanley]

The JB Weld was pretty successful and they are rock solid. I never dared to put the torque on the bolts that I was able to put on the studs after the JB Weld cured up.

I picked up some Permatex #2..which is thicker and in the tube..I'll try again. ..not a show stopper for the current RWC'd setup, but still an annoying leak that would be a showstopper for FWC'd.

I cleaned up the JB Weld pretty well (using a rag) on the outside of the block, because I didn't want cured JB Weld on the outside to inhibit plate to block contact. Not a precision job by any means, but I am wondering if maybe the water is leaking down on the outside of the gasket, and then dripping out the thread.

My thick orange RTV job worked for 2.5 years before, so we'll get it eventually if we have to go to that. I also have "Hondabond" which Honda uses to seal their trannys & a few spots on the motor...with no gasket...I rebuilt a few Honda motors a while back and when the manual specified, I used it successfully....much stickier than the RTV crap you get at the hardware store.

[hanleyclifford]

The water jacket side plate is the one place I recommend the use of Permatex #2 throughout. That means the threads on the studs (block side) and both sides of the gasket, a thorough coverage which for me means a couple of messy fingers to get it right. During prep I finish the cleaning with a fresh single edge razor blade (I buy these in boxes of 100). Remember, antifreeze will escape where water will not (has something to do with specific gravity or molality or one of those chemistry thingys; Ed, help us out)

[ILikeRust]

I think what you're looking for is "surface tension" - also, potentially, "viscosity."

I dunno if I have been just lucky, or good, or what, but so far, I have zero leaks from anywhere on my rebuilt A4.

[sastanley]

OK, OK..Hanley, I know I am stalling...I'll get FWC installed in the boat someday!

[roadnsky]

Wow!
Talk about bumping a "thread"!

[sastanley]

update

By the way - the FWC is installed. - I've been using it a couple of weeks now, but wanted to do some testing prior to providing an update.

My buddy with dive gear helped me this weekend and scraped the props while I wiped the water lines of our respective boats..69°F ocean water temp.

So, now that I've run it a bit, the numbers are in.

Cruise around 2,000 reveals a rock solid 165°F with my $35 e-bay Sen-Dure 2T-15 HX & the Johnson electric pump. We'll see how it does when the sea temp warms up.

If I run it up to WOT (2,300 RPM) it stays at 165°F.

[thatch]

"Sleep Aid"

Shawn,
Congrat's on the FWC install. I'm pretty sure you'll sleep better now, I know I do.
Tom

[sastanley]

Tom, thanks..I'll admit I was apprehensive with the first run with the slightly smaller HX...but the price was too good to pass up.

Please notice the "Thatch manifold re-route".

Incidentally the only remaining machined fitting in the entire cooling circuit is that fitting at the end of the bypass entering the t-stat.

[Kelly]

Good job, Shawn. I'm sure the FWC will make your A4 extra-specially happy.

I remember some pretty rough "before" pictures in your threads. It looks like now we're more likely to see your photos on the pin-up thread. Keep up the good work and happy sailing!

[sailhog]

Nice work, Shawn! The engine compartment and the arrangement of everything in it is impressive....

[Jesse Delanoy]

Shawn, great looking engine compartment. I hope you'll let me take a look at it for real one day, when I get down around Solomon's again. You're getting 165 with FWC? Terrific!

[Bold Rascal]

Very Nice

Great looking install Shawn! youv'e really accomplished alot and it looks really great.

[hanleyclifford]

Good Show, Shawn!

There is rejoicing in Afourania every time FWC happens.