Not Done But Close!

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  • GregH
    Afourian MVP
    • Jun 2015
    • 564

    Not Done But Close!

    Was able to get a couple hours at the boat this afternoon. Adjusted the carb cable and refilled the raw water filter and hoses. Opened the fuel valve for the first time and thought how I must get this line bled. Remembered a comment on here recently about using the mechanical fuel pump lever and thought why not! About 20 pumps later and I felt back pressure and the inline fuel pressure gauge gave a little jump. Went to the cockpit and made sure the choke was pulled out and gave the start button a press.

    It turned over! Promising sign

    After a couple of tries I could hear it wanting to start. Tried again but no go. So gave it a wee little more throttle and it came to life! Running but barely. Played with the choke and found that it preferred no choke on at all. Starts up within a few seconds.

    Shut it down and sat back in relief! And big smiles

    Hand a bucket of water on a ladder on the ground near the intake (yes still on the hard) and a short hose from it stuck into the seacock. It was sucking water but slowly due to the hose only being 5/16 id. It helped me find the manifold drain I forgot to put back in. and that the standpipe drain has a slight leak from my poor brazing job. Will try and tackle that tomorrow.

    Click image for larger version

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    The tach works as does the water temp and voltage gauges. The oil pressure gauge was pegged off the bottom of the dial and have no idea what is going on there. Will have a look at the wiring as well to make sure I didn't something stupid

    The fuel pressure gauge works great and is showing 2-3 psi
    Click image for larger version

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    On idle 700-1000 rpm the volt gauge is showing 13V. I have a digital gauge that is almost done wiring that will give me more precise measurement of the volts and amps from the alternator.

    Still lots to do but wanted to thank all for the help so far.

    [YOUTUBE]cOL_TR2UiWQ[/YOUTUBE]
    Last edited by GregH; 05-20-2018, 08:58 PM.
    Greg
    1975 Alberg 30
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  • Administrator
    MMI Webmaster
    • Oct 2004
    • 2166

    #2
    Uploading a video

    Click on this thread.

    Bill

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    • Al Schober
      Afourian MVP
      • Jul 2009
      • 2006

      #3
      If a cold engine prefers no choke, it's a sign that you're running very rich. You can verify this by checking the spark plugs after running a while. My engines all have the adjustable main jet - available from Moyer Marine.

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      • GregH
        Afourian MVP
        • Jun 2015
        • 564

        #4
        Originally posted by Al Schober View Post
        If a cold engine prefers no choke, it's a sign that you're running very rich. You can verify this by checking the spark plugs after running a while. My engines all have the adjustable main jet - available from Moyer Marine.
        Makes sense and I figured there'd be a slew of tunings to do. Hmm yeah i dont have the adjustable main jet from Moyer yet. Back to the manual to see how I adjust this
        Last edited by GregH; 05-21-2018, 04:41 PM. Reason: Not knowing what part is what
        Greg
        1975 Alberg 30
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        • GregH
          Afourian MVP
          • Jun 2015
          • 564

          #5
          The newer of the two oil gauges didn't seem to be working yesterday so went back to test it today. The pic of the gauge below is how it looked when I installed it.

          Disconnected the sender wire and turned on the power - no needle change.

          Connected the sender post to ground - no needle change.

          From what I understand this means the gauge is pooched. Have I missed anything?
          Click image for larger version

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          The older gauge below was working last year when I bought the engine and tested it; so I can pop that in the next time I'm at the boat and check it out.
          Click image for larger version

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          Greg
          1975 Alberg 30
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          • HOTFLASH
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2004
            • 210

            #6
            oil pressure gauge

            Greg,

            Did you also change the sender too?? Gauges and senders must be paired. See your install instructions.

            Mary A
            Tartan 27 Yawl

            Comment

            • GregH
              Afourian MVP
              • Jun 2015
              • 564

              #7
              Originally posted by HOTFLASH View Post
              Greg,

              Did you also change the sender too?? Gauges and senders must be paired. See your install instructions.

              Mary A
              Tartan 27 Yawl
              Ummm ..... nooooo...

              But shouldn't the testing of the gauge have produced needle movement (pegging high or low) anyways ?
              Greg
              1975 Alberg 30
              sigpic

              Comment

              • JOHN COOKSON
                Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
                • Nov 2008
                • 3500

                #8
                Originally posted by GregH View Post
                Ummm ..... nooooo...

                But shouldn't the testing of the gauge have produced needle movement (pegging high or low) anyways ?(YES)
                Greg
                You are correct. The gauge is a goner. The only consideration I can think of is are you sure there was power to the gauge when you did the test?
                The resistance change in the sending unit needs be read as the correct oil pressure by the gauge. It is more of a matching consideration than an actual pairing. The easiest way, and probably the only way, when you don't know the specs for the gauge and\or sending unit is to buy them as a pair form the manufacturer then you can be sure they will be matched and will give a correct reading.

                TRUE GRIT

                Comment

                • GregH
                  Afourian MVP
                  • Jun 2015
                  • 564

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
                  Greg
                  You are correct. The gauge is a goner. The only consideration I can think of is are you sure there was power to the gauge when you did the test?
                  The resistance change in the sending unit needs be read as the correct oil pressure by the gauge. It is more of a matching consideration than an actual pairing. The easiest way, and probably the only way, when you don't know the specs for the gauge and\or sending unit is to buy them as a pair form the manufacturer then you can be sure they will be matched and will give a correct reading.

                  TRUE GRIT
                  There was def 12+V at the gauge when testing. I'll pick up a new pairing at work today just to be safe.
                  Greg
                  1975 Alberg 30
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                  • GregH
                    Afourian MVP
                    • Jun 2015
                    • 564

                    #10
                    Had time today to remove and check out the oil sender. It was a European style measuring 10 Ohms- silly me. The sender from the other engine wasn't reading anything so picked up new NA style sender that measures 240 Ohms with no pressure. Switched out gauge as well to make sure all good. Will try the original gauge next weekend as it's the same style as the others.

                    [YOUTUBE]mXjf42gFN1U[/YOUTUBE]

                    [YOUTUBE]aQ8s2bcCeAk[/YOUTUBE]
                    Last edited by Administrator; 05-27-2018, 10:06 PM.
                    Greg
                    1975 Alberg 30
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                    • GregH
                      Afourian MVP
                      • Jun 2015
                      • 564

                      #11
                      Soo... what was I doing wrong with the video link? I THOUGHT I was following the instructions that same as the previous time in this thread. The vids showed up when I previewed but not when I posted.
                      Greg
                      1975 Alberg 30
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