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  #26   IP: 137.200.32.22
Old 04-19-2018, 01:48 PM
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Step 1 - buy the flange designed to fit that and pressure test the manifold.
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  #27   IP: 198.134.98.50
Old 04-19-2018, 01:58 PM
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but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by afsam94 View Post
Looking at Whippet's generic exhaust layout above my water line is much lower probably at the level of the lift so the exhaust at the manifold level remains above the water line even heeling
even if the whole thing is far above water line - from your photo, looks like the exhaust hot water entry from engine is at same level as manifold. what is to keep water from flowing right into engine?

As said, most of the parts we are discussing come from any plumbing store (use black pipe, not galvanized), and hose from marine store. Moyer sells convenient part for exhaust water entry.
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  #28   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-19-2018, 08:08 PM
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The exhaust exit at the stern turns out to be elevated about 8 inches above the level where the exhaust exits the manifold and the manifold exhaust is close to the water line.

I've decided to move immediately to replace the straight pipe with an appropriate riser configuration. What measurements or pictures do I need to order the correct parts please? OK I just see now that you suggest I CAN get appropriate materials from plumbing suppliers

(A real bodger might sadly have chosen wood glue but I accept the compliment.)

Sorry I posted this before reading the two additional reply posts. So you suggest adding the Moyer flange and pressure test? The engine is running fine currently. Shouldn't I try to get the current flange off first? Is the current flange hopeless if I am fortunate enough to pipe wrench that straight piece off? I will call Ken in the morning to get his feed back and suggestions as well.

I can't thank everyone enough. You have dragged me kicking and screaming into the twenty first century exhaust world.

Note bodger link corrected

Last edited by afsam94; 04-19-2018 at 09:03 PM. Reason: add a comment
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afsam94 View Post
So you suggest adding the Moyer flange and pressure test? The engine is running fine currently. Shouldn't I try to get the current flange off first? Is the current flange hopeless if I am fortunate enough to pipe wrench that straight piece off?
YES. Yes, get the proper flange on there.
Here are some pics of a proper "rise" system...
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  #30   IP: 24.53.89.131
Old 04-20-2018, 06:46 AM
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It has already been mentioned that you should get black pipe as opposed to galvanized.

Why you may wish to know?

Galvanized will give off toxic fumes when it it heated.

I had to go to a plumbing supply store as opposed to my usual hardware store to get the black plumbing.

Stay safe,

Peter
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  #31   IP: 137.200.0.106
Old 04-20-2018, 08:47 AM
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I used to use galvanized. It *stinks* for the first few hours and the stinky gas will make you sick
* the illness is called metal fume fever. I never caught it, I would motor around with all the cockpit hatched open until it burned off. Now I know better
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  #32   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-20-2018, 09:36 AM
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thanks again to all

Following consultation w my partner I have ordered this:

https://moyermarine.com/product/exha...exht_01-0_562/

I will need to extend the piece immediately after the manifold flange a bit so the riser starts up AFTER the engine cowling and is actually in the engine compartment of my Grampian. Yes I could save money constructing this at plumbing supply but timing does not allow.

More comments are always welcome.

Thanks

Al

Last edited by afsam94; 04-20-2018 at 11:21 AM. Reason: update
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  #33   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-20-2018, 01:00 PM
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partial view of muffler for Ken

partial view of muffler for Ken
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  #34   IP: 72.194.220.204
Old 04-20-2018, 05:34 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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If you use a union when you install the new Moyer hot section piece it will make life vastly easier - assuming you have room that is.
It would look like this: New flange, short nipple, union, short nipple, coupling, new Moyer hot section.

TRUE GRIT
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  #35   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 04-20-2018, 07:23 PM
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afsam, can you please provide a picture of the entire muffler and if possible, the hose run to the transom?
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  #36   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-23-2018, 10:49 PM
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Apologies for the delay. This provides an update and a question. After discussion with Ken (and sending him a full muffler Picture which he identified as water lift) I moved forward to cancel the Catalina hot piece I ordered and Ken arranged to send just the flange at the manifold and barbed angled raw water cooling input both of which I have received. This evening I bought a collection of black iron pipe pieces to create the upward loop specified in the drawing ken provided. I'll post a picture of what I am building Tuesday evening. Will not be able to spend much time here going forward. I will build a loop that runs exhaust upward as high as possible at the earliest convenient point beyond the manifold and back down to prevent back flow then to where the water will enter but still high enough for the exhaust/water mix to flow downward to the muffler then down from there to the stern exhaust (still about 8 inches above the water line).

These days what is the best high temp sealant to use at the flange and iron pipe connections? I will buy pipe insulation tape to cover the whole affair (like pictures above) at a local marine store.

thank you

Al
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File Type: pdf exhaustsystem.pdf (189.9 KB, 483 views)

Last edited by afsam94; 04-23-2018 at 11:20 PM.
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  #37   IP: 137.200.32.38
Old 04-24-2018, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afsam94 View Post
Apologies for the delay. This provides an update and a question. After discussion with Ken (and sending him a full muffler Picture which he identified as water lift) I moved forward to cancel the Catalina hot piece I ordered and Ken arranged to send just the flange at the manifold and barbed angled raw water cooling input both of which I have received. This evening I bought a collection of black iron pipe pieces to create the upward loop specified in the drawing ken provided. I'll post a picture of what I am building Tuesday evening. Will not be able to spend much time here going forward. I will build a loop that runs exhaust upward as high as possible at the earliest convenient point beyond the manifold and back down to prevent back flow then to where the water will enter but still high enough for the exhaust/water mix to flow downward to the muffler then down from there to the stern exhaust (still about 8 inches above the water line).

These days what is the best high temp sealant to use at the flange and iron pipe connections? I will buy pipe insulation tape to cover the whole affair (like pictures above) at a local marine store.

thank you

Al
I just get the pipes tight and they don't seem to leak. YMMV
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  #38   IP: 216.80.24.55
Old 04-24-2018, 12:13 PM
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No sealant, the threads "seal" with a little rust
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  #39   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-27-2018, 02:15 PM
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Thanks for the sealant tip, flange as well?

Does the absence of need for sealant on the black pipe exhaust also apply to the Flange I bought from Moyer? I notice a gasket with the flange. Does it require some kind of goop?

Last edited by afsam94; 04-27-2018 at 02:17 PM. Reason: add a comment
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  #40   IP: 172.95.97.58
Old 04-27-2018, 03:09 PM
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Use the flange gasket. Just skip putting anything on the tapered pipe threads and they will rust sealed in just a few starts. This also makes getting the "TWIST" right for pointing pipes and fittings in the right direction. If it is a bit loose it won't be for long. In this case rust is a good thing.

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  #41   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-28-2018, 12:36 AM
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thanks again to all

thanks again to all
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  #42   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 04-29-2018, 12:54 PM
afsam94 afsam94 is offline
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Progress picture - Ordered exhaust insulation wrap kit.

Getting the old flange off was brutal. Snapped the head off one of the old flange bolts with breaker bar leaving 1/2" of old bolt shaft protruding from the manifold. I thought it was the end of the road for me because there was no easy way to get it out. Fortunately my good friend Bob had a tool he had never used: a "stud extractor." With the heat of an acetylene torch making it cherry red first and the extractor tool he was able to unscrew the little stub of a stud.

Accompanying picture shows the new exhaust parts in position but not tightened yet. I just ordered the exhaust wrap kit. Looking for feed back about what you see here.
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:59 PM
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Now we're gettin' somewhere

The only suggestion I have is use 3/8-16 stainless set screws with external washers and hex nuts instead of hex head machine screws for the flange attachment. Your broken bolt experience will never be repeated.
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Last edited by ndutton; 06-09-2018 at 11:59 PM.
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  #44   IP: 99.225.32.205
Old 04-29-2018, 04:21 PM
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great progress

The design looks to be "by the book" and can appreciate your hard work to remove old flange.

What are your plans for the remaining section all the way to the transom? I've heard of failing old exhaust hose - so seems a new section in order. Classic design calls for another rise after the waterlift.

Good luck!
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Old 04-29-2018, 06:52 PM
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Steve raises a good question. Now that you have the hot section in order, what is the configuration from there to the transom? Is it a straight downhill run or is there a rise in it?
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  #46   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 05-02-2018, 08:42 AM
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Bodgered vs Moyered exhaust (see two consecutive pictures that follow)

I can't extend enough thanks to all Afourians for leading me through this.

Before and after pictures of my exhaust follow this post. I'll answer your questions and then we are doing a shakedown cruise with this and many other changes in my boat. I will be back to let you know how it goes in a few days. The big question is: Has water in the oil stopped for good?

You will notice that because of time considerations I bought exhaust wrap locally so it is not the Moyer kit but i have bought Moyer parts for years and will I am sure again. I feel guilty about running to buy local exhaust wrap Ken's help in this was extraordinary. I told him I would buy a new engine from him because I thought I had a cracked block and he essentially talked me out of it with references to pressure test posts and other tests suggesting that might NOT be the reason.

The exhaust hose was in excellent shape so I did not change it.

Stainless steel screws arrived with the Moyer flange package so we won't be ripping heads off screws should this ever happen again.

Yes there is a slight rise in the final exhaust section after the water lift muffler which takes it slightly above the level of the transom exit before it dips down again and exits the boat.

And now pictures of the Bodgered vs Moyered exhaust:
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:46 AM
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Bodgered vs Moyered exhaust (see two consecutive pictures that follow)

Bodgered exhaust (see two consecutive pictures that follow)
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Last edited by afsam94; 05-02-2018 at 08:53 AM.
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  #48   IP: 108.15.18.25
Old 05-02-2018, 08:49 AM
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Bodgered vs Moyered exhaust (see two consecutive pictures that follow)

Moyered exhaust (......).

I should add here that I have had the engine running and so far ZERO water in the oil.
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No work job. No like job. -> no thank you please!
Yes like boat. Yes like sail. -> yes thank you please!

Last edited by afsam94; 05-02-2018 at 08:55 AM. Reason: add a comment
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  #49   IP: 138.207.172.243
Old 05-02-2018, 09:31 AM
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Nice work afsam!
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:38 AM
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When you can please post a picture of the waterlift.
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