#1
IP: 71.71.116.117
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Pearson 30 mast information
Okay so just got some questions about the mast. The mast appears to have 4 broken books on the base as you can see in the picture. What was the purpose of the bolts and is it something that I need to fix?
The mast gate here, does it just take another cotter pin?
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#2
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Mast base looks like it's missing 4 pan head screws - I'd guess #10s. They keep the mast base from falling out when you pull the mast. No way to tell whether they just fell out (poke with a wire) or whether they sheared off. My guess is that they sheared as the mast and the base acquired more intimate contact over the years. I'd address it next time the mast is down.
Gate - needs a cotter pin. |
#3
IP: 174.192.0.179
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Main Gate
A cotter is cheap and will work fine. A small bolt will work too, but I believe a Fastpin was what it was meant for.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/schae...02_065_009_002 |
#4
IP: 174.192.0.179
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Mast Base
Al is correct about the screws. They obviously aren't necessary to hold the mast in place while it's up! However, as can be seen in this photo, this mast base sits on the mast step which has a pipe through it where the wires for mast lights, antennas, etc. are run (the terminology for those two castings is Pearson's). On removing the mast, the crane lifts the mast up a foot or so, the wires are disconnected, and the mast removed. Whether you leave the base attached to the mast or not is up to you. I always leave the base sitting on the step and never use screws.
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#5
IP: 71.71.116.117
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I believe the bolts sheared off, I can see the rest of the bolt inside of the mast base.
Looks like I need to replace the block on the bottom of the mast for the main halyard, I can see in the pictures it appears to be missing part of it. How do you go about changing the lights on the mast spreader? One of the lights worked when I bought it but now neither are working, in one of the lights I can see there is water in it.
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina Last edited by rockhopper; 08-20-2017 at 09:16 PM. |
#6
IP: 148.74.164.249
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Two choices... someone's either going up the mast, or consider dropping the mast and use it as an opportunity to have a full rigging inspection performed, including standing rigging, lighting/electronics, spreaders, etc. Peace of mind...
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#7
IP: 174.194.29.12
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Unfortunately peace of mind at the moment I believe would cost me more than I can afford this season with everything I've spent already. Guess I'll be figuring out how to climb the mast when I get it in the water.
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#8
IP: 71.178.80.168
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Rock Hopper, there are lots of different ways to get up the stick. I don't mind it at all, but it is a LOT nicer to do it in a nice chair. I have done it in everything from a mountain climbing harness, to a soft chair, to a make shift twisted nylon torture rack. When I got this boat, I ponied up for a Harken bosun's chair and carry it with me when I go up other people's masts when I am not going up my own stick. It is worth the investment (about $175). - http://www.harkencanvas.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2234
Always use two halyards and never trust a shackle..tie a secure knot, like a bowline. If you are strong enough to help the guys by doing some climbing while they haul you up they will thank you. Don't be a dead lump! The other important part is to train the line handlers to NOT look up when they are lowering you. When they look up it is common to also want to raise their arms which MAY undo the wraps on the winch ...Kinda like water skiing, I always have a designated spotter and have my line handlers staring at the winch for everyone's safety. Can you take some pics of the lights? Some older boats like ours had tractor headlights for spreader lights...when I pulled my stick for a re-wire, I replaced them with the AquaSignal combo deck/steaming fitting, and I like it. However, I totally understand it might be cheaper right now for you to simply replace the existing bulbs.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 08-21-2017 at 06:47 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (08-21-2017) |
#9
IP: 32.211.28.40
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I've been up (and down) my mast, using a rock climbing harness and a pair of ascenders - one for the harness and the other for your foot loops. I prefer this to a 'helper' on the winch - with a winch handle in one hand and a beer in the other. You can do it - only caveat is to where to put your gear bag. Hanging it on the harness may make it so low that you can't get stuff out of it. A loop around the neck may be better - try it before you go up!
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#10
IP: 71.178.80.168
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Al, A buddy showed me the ATN mast climber, and I watched it in action. Another interesting alternative!
http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimbe...quipment.shtml
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
The Following User Says Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
goodoldboat (08-21-2017) |
#11
IP: 71.3.151.127
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I use a 4:1 tackle for going up. I pull on end up to the top on one halyard. I pull myself up and use the other halyard for safety. But usually I have a person tailing the safety line. For my 200 pounds, I am pulling 50. That I can do, LOL.
I have a west marine bosuns chair but also wear a harness that I attach when I get to the top and stand up on a loop. |
#12
IP: 71.71.116.117
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Not sure if you can make it out really well, but the lights are a round light fixture.
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
The Following User Says Thank You to rockhopper For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (06-17-2022) |
#13
IP: 71.178.80.168
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EDIT - WHOA!!! I see you are in NC, but that looks eerily like our local Thomas Johnson Bridge in the background?!?!?
Those look like standard issue 1970's tractor lights. I'll do some digging and see if I can remember the replacement bulb. here is what I had on my spreaders, and I think these are the replacement bulbs! You can get them in LED now. Probably should double check the dimensions. 112mm is like 4.4 inches. These style lights do come in different sizes. http://a.co/1JtEJT5
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 08-21-2017 at 09:20 PM. |
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rockhopper (08-21-2017), TimBSmith (06-17-2022) |
#14
IP: 72.194.218.136
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Are you in a yard? From the picture looks like so. Maybe the yard has a crane or travel lift and can drop ad raise the mast for a nominal sum.
TRUE GRIT |
#15
IP: 174.193.155.82
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The yard has a crane that cost $200 an hour with a half hour minimum and then if they do the labor it's $70/hr. They are only open M-F and it's 4 hours away from my house. So I'll have to climb the pole, my youngest daughter also told me she'd do it (9yrs old and weighs maybe 50lbs).
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#16
IP: 174.192.18.215
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Why do you need spreader lights? I have them, and they work. In 20 years I've only used them once, and that was simply to see how much light they put out at night. Since then, not duly impressed, I use a flashlight.
Now the steaming light is another story. And the anchor light. Do they work? Even if you're not out at night, in fog or low visibility a steaming light is a navigation light, and is required if you're motoring. |
#17
IP: 174.193.155.82
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sastantley, that is the ICW bridge at Beaufort, NC.
Tac, not sure honestly I just noticed the one spreader light that had worked had stopped but you have a point. The anchor light on the very top of the mast I know works, I'll have to check the steaming light.
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Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#18
IP: 100.36.89.105
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When we rebuilt our mast in 2013, I put on two extremely bright, sealed 15W LED lights. At night they're like aircraft landing lights!
Since then, we've used them a fair amount. Typically when seeing off other dinghys who have joined us for sundowners, but also for cleaning up the deck after a night anchoring. We've even used them to identify our boat to another boat when in a crowded anchorage. Highly recommended. http://store.marinebeam.com/15w-led-...ght-for-boats/
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#19
IP: 12.172.250.194
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I have those spreader light fixtures too, and installed them just before LED bulbs became commonplace I guess about 10-12 years ago. But they are so inexpensive, and so easy to replace, and used so infrequently, that I just couldn't justify replacing them when I redid my mast two years ago. So back up they went. They're the only incandescent bulbs left on the boat. (My mast is double-spreader rigged, and the basic winter ladder easily reaches the lower spreaders where the lights are mounted.)
They are 35 watt bulbs, PAR36, with a G53 base, and yep, their primary use is seems to be as tractor bulbs. Compatible bulbs include: GE 4406 GE 24430 GE4411 Sylvania 55091 Many of the LED substitutes I looked at at the time were expensive, but more importantly, NOT WATERPROOF. So I guess you can't use them on your tractor in the rain. Since then, this one seems to have been developed and might suit at $18 a bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWWB5LM/ (Several versions - I believe "floodlight" rather than "spotlight" is better for this purpose) Useful note from Perko's website: "when rebulbing, retainer ring must be placed with flat side toward bulb. Starting with one end, insert ring in space between bulb and light housing. Twisting the ring so that the outside edge goes in first will make replacement easier." |
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TimBSmith (06-17-2022) |
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