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Old 12-06-2018, 04:24 PM
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Winter rebuild

Good day,

I am starting a new thread where people can follow my progress of the tear down and rebuild of a late model atomic 4 stevedor, out of a 1974 C&C27.

This past weekend I managed to remove the engine from the C&c being carefull to label everything that is disconnected.

Using my boom, main halyard, and main sheet I easily rigged a simple Derrick. By attaching the halyard to the end of the boom then detaching the main sheet from the traveler, and then to the motor, I was able to hoist the boom up to approximately 50-60 degrees. Using two lines to then stablize the boom from slewing side to side. Taking up on the four fold purchase on the main sheet rove to advantage, made lifting the motor manageable by a single person.

Once clearing the companion way hatch easing of the main halyard and slewing the motor over the side was easily managed by a single person.
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:39 PM
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Brilliant!
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koerk View Post
Good day,

I am starting a new thread where people can follow my progress of the tear down and rebuild of a late model atomic 4 stevedor, out of a 1974 C&C27.

This past weekend I managed to remove the engine from the C&c being carefull to label everything that is disconnected.

Using my boom, main halyard, and main sheet I easily rigged a simple Derrick. By attaching the halyard to the end of the boom then detaching the main sheet from the traveler, and then to the motor, I was able to hoist the boom up to approximately 50-60 degrees. Using two lines to then stablize the boom from slewing side to side. Taking up on the four fold purchase on the main sheet rove to advantage, made lifting the motor manageable by a single person.

Once clearing the companion way hatch easing of the main halyard and slewing the motor over the side was easily managed by a single person.
That is a highly recommended way. I have done it that way a few times.

BTW, with the way it is rigged, did you ride the engine all the way down?

Look forward to the rebuild.

Also, I have heard of the Stevedore, is that different from the usual Atomic Four?
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
That is a highly recommended way. I have done it that way a few times.

BTW, with the way it is rigged, did you ride the engine all the way down?

Look forward to the rebuild.

Also, I have heard of the Stevedore, is that different from the usual Atomic Four?
IIRC, the Stevedore is a Canadian version with some kind of restrictor plate to produce less HP for Canadian tax reasons.
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:33 PM
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I've heard sometimes those restrictor plates fall out. Darn.

I pulled my engine that way and I have one comment: When reinstalling the engine, I'd put another line(like a jib halyard) from the masthead to the point where the mainsheet attaches on the boom. I like backup.
Also, wrap the line down around the top block somehow so the attachment fitting is not stressed. follow the path of tension and consider the stresses all along the way.

nice winter project. Keep calm and carry on,

Russ
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
That is a highly recommended way. I have done it that way a few times.

BTW, with the way it is rigged, did you ride the engine all the way down?
Indeed, with how it is rigged in the photo I was able to ride the motor all they way down on the main sheet. How ever while slewing and easing the main halyard I choked the purchase with a hitch and toggle (not shown}.

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I've heard sometimes those restrictor plates fall out. Darn.

I pulled my engine that way and I have one comment: When reinstalling the engine, I'd put another line(like a jib halyard) from the masthead to the point where the mainsheet attaches on the boom. I like backup.
Also, wrap the line down around the top block somehow so the attachment fitting is not stressed. follow the path of tension and consider the stresses all along the way.

nice winter project. Keep calm and carry on,

Russ
Thank you Lat 64.

Doubling up halyards is an excellent precaution, in my case the jib halyard which is my only other rigged halyard was terribly chafed and needs immidiate replacement. After carefull consideration of the normal working loads , and how robust the existing bail attaching the mainsheet to the boom is I did not feel it necessary to reinforce any part of the boom. However to Do it again I would use a Web sling to tie a prucic just forward of the main bail, choking the boom creating a new strong point to attach the main halyard.

Cheers.

Last edited by Koerk; 12-08-2018 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:59 AM
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Climbing experience? Firefighter maybe?

I suspect you felt a bit more comfortable with the boat in a cradle rather than on jackstands.

Bill

Last edited by Administrator; 12-08-2018 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:33 AM
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Talking

Monday morning, I moved the A4 into a garden shed for the winter, which I am heating with a space heater. While working whenever firing up the torch I isolate the power to the shed, as a precaution. Good thing too. Thursday I had a din valve freeze open on a propane bottle after removing the torch. luckily I have 4 acres sloping down to the waterfront, so the gas could dissipate quickly below its lel, far away from possible ignition sources.

From the photos its quite clear this engine has considerable amount of corrosion around the exhaust flange and under the starter motor. I'm hoping to have everything sand blasted and painted up nicely before rebuilding the motor. From my knowledge the engine hasn't seen any work besides upgrading the old points ignition,and installing an electric fuel pump (not shown).

What prompted the rebuild? A couple days after owning santeria my C&C 27 the A4 died in a beautiful display of thick white smoke. Choking out the tourists in beautiful Lunenburg NS. Not knowing what I didn't know about engines I quickly found the home of the afourians. And the confidence to undertake this project. Thanks!

After the engine quit I cranked and cranked it... Oops forgot to close the seacock. Now I know the original problem was that the carb was gummed up with bad fuel. After closing the sea cock I cranked the engine over and over spraying seafoam down the plugs trying to remove any moisture from the cylinders as water was later discovered in the oil. I figured the water in the oil was siphoning back from my exhaust after my initial cranking spree with the sea cock open! and working its way down. Now it's well into fall 2017 and I had to pack up and head back to sea until the holidays. Draining the block by gravity I wasn't able to clear all the moisture from the cylinders before winter set it in. Spring 2018, I attempt turning the crank by hand to no luck. Lots of seafoam in the cylinder and beers for the wait I couldn't get anything even with a 24" breaker bar. Now I am here starting a rebuild of this old A4.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:37 AM
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Did you pressure test the cooling system before disassembly?
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
Climbing experience? Firefighter maybe?

I suspect you felt a bit more comfortable with the boat in a cradle rather than on jackstands.

Bill
Haha. I Dabbled at Rock climbing once upon a time. many, many beers ago.

I couldn't say if jackstands would make me LESS comfortable since the cradle she sits on is deteriorating quickly to dry rot and will probably be scrapped spring 2019.
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:01 AM
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Exhaust flange broke in half while trying to remove the second bolt. Not worried MMI carries castings of these exhaust flanges.

Corrosion scale built up along the water jacket plate. This was removed easily with a pick.

Exposing heavy scaling along the cylinders which was scrapped away easily.

Next opening up the exhaust manifold and valve spring covering. Note the Corrosion? Or imulsified fuel? on a few of the valves. Any ideas of what this is/means?

It's not in the photo but right after I put the camera down I pluged up the holes in the bottom with a rag.

The exhaust ports leading to the manifold look pretty good some mild Corrosion but nothing in excess.
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:04 AM
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Did you pressure test the cooling system before disassembly?
No I did not conduct a pressure test of the cooling system before disaembly. What are the advantages of this?

Cheers!
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:39 AM
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If either all the water was not removed or the engine not properly winterized with antifreeze and it was subjected to freezing temperatures, there is a chance of freeze damage to the block. Reading your post it struck me as a possibility.

If it were me I'd want to know the water jacket was intact before moving forward on a rebuild. If the assembled block and head will not hold a modest pressure you know the cooling system has suffered a mortal crack. The manifold can be tested separately which I recommend also.
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Old 12-08-2018, 10:03 AM
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I think I have passed the point of which pressure testing is no longer practicable. Having removed the water jacket, exhaust manifold and thermostat. Along with backing off and breaking some studs on the head. How does one check the isolate and check the manifold seperatly?

I thought I might add that I removed all the plugs in the cooling system and left it wide open for the winter. With a small amount of anti freeze I poured down the water jacket intake.

Last edited by Koerk; 12-08-2018 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 10:09 AM
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The two threaded ports on the top of the manifold are water jacket ports. Put a gauge in one and a schrader valve in the other, pressurize to 5 lbs. (others prefer 20 lbs. but I don't see why) and see if the pressure holds. Alternatively you can plug one port and buy this in the Home Depot plumbing department.

edit: I want to add that the only thing worse than having a cracked, non-viable block is finding out about it AFTER you've invested considerable time and money in a rebuild.
edit, the sequel: If I were in your shoes I'd focus on getting the head studs replaced and the head reinstalled first, then perform the pressure test before doing anything else. A little birdie whispered in my ear that he noticed you lifted the engine by the lifting eye/alternator bracket. That is perfectly understandable BUT we have learned the hard way lifting thusly may cause another problem, a crack in the head underneath the lifting eye. The pressure test will check that too. Have a squirt bottle of diluted dish soap (3:1) handy to spray over the engine when it's pressurized. Any breaches will form bubbles.

Check out this thread:
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...015#post114015

A few years ago I acquired a used Atomic 4 from a guy who went electric. It was a Southern California boat so no risk of freeze damage but still the very first thing I did was the cooling system pressure test. It held pressure for 1/2 hour so I knew I had a viable block, head and manifold.
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Last edited by ndutton; 12-08-2018 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:58 PM
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Thanks this helps me alot. I am now currently cleaning up all the flanges. i then plan on cutting new gaskets made of rubber solely for the purpose of this test, including a rubber head gasket after repairing the studs and re tourqing of the head. Hope all checks out.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:07 PM
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I cant wait to see inside the engine. Something made all that smoke. I am thinking a blown piston.
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Old 12-09-2018, 02:02 PM
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Help.

Any recommendations on how to go about trouble shooting this error, the hole is 1/8“ deep. My bit walked off center as I drilled out the broken bolt in my exhaust flange.

I am hoping that I can continue drilling this out as is and then thread it. Since my exhaust flange is corroded beyond saving and has broken in two I could have a new one made up at a local machine shop.
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Old 12-09-2018, 03:48 PM
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Have you pressure tested the manifold? There is no point in working on it until you know it is leak free.

However, when drilling out broken bolts we recommend bolting up the mating part to use as a drill guide. Since your flange is broken you'll need a new one anyway so when it arrives - - and if the manifold is proven not to leak - - you can drill it out then.
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