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  #1   IP: 108.246.1.125
Old 12-06-2018, 07:50 PM
Tar34 Tar34 is offline
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Tartan 34c exhaust make up

I am using my old black pipe exhaust as a template. My question: as this is a screw together assembly I’m sure I’m going to run into one or two joints which when tightened will not align in the most favored position to make the optimum bend to the stack cabinet. Any insights to ensure I get the joint postions correct? Is there a recommended thread dressing to minimize the chance of exhaust leaks? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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  #2   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 12-06-2018, 09:37 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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I never used or felt the need for any joint compound for sealing. The joints seal themselves pretty quickly. Don't use galvanized pipe.
I've never done a T34. With my T30, the first nipple angled up a bit (same as the engine). Then there was a 45 elbow, going to a nipple that I wanted horizontal. When I was tightening the 45, I was tightening 2 joints, so there was plenty of give. Last joint was a 90 elbow to go vertical to the mixing can - tightening this elbow also snugged up two joints. Mixing can was never an issue, as I added a union to that leg (so I could get it in place).
Put it on your list for every 5 years. A broken exhaust can burn down the boat!
Replacing it at home on your time is a LOT cheaper than having TowBoat haul you to a yard, then paying the yard for the job!!!!!
Photo attached of exhaust blower - melted.
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  #3   IP: 108.34.253.10
Old 12-06-2018, 10:09 PM
jcwright jcwright is online now
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Hello Tar34.

I’ve replaced the hot section in our T34c twice—once about 20 years ago when we bought the boat, and again a couple of years ago when I removed the engine to overhaul it.

The first replacement was the easier job. I cut the pipes at the exhaust flange and at the bottom of the standpipe and kept the sections in their original alignment so I could recreate the joint positions.

The second replacement was fussier. I had rebuilt the engine bed and installed a drive saver, so the fore-aft position of the engine changed. Also, I didn’t like a 90 degree bend in the original (and previously copied) installation, and installed two 45 degree joints for a gentler curve. Several dry fits were needed, and even then I had to move the standpipe a bit to make everything cooperate.

For me, a key part of the installation was to use ample fiberglass insulation and exhaust wrap. I had to enlarge the hole at the bottom of the standpipe cabinet for clearance. I didn’t use thread dressing for either job; leaks have not been a problem.

Hope this helps some.

Best regards,

Jack.
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  #4   IP: 71.208.62.184
Old 12-06-2018, 10:33 PM
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I agree with Jack.

I used grease on the joints for my T34 exhaust. I also used 45s and not 90s. That would make for 4 45s. I only needed to have one piece cut and threaded. There are enough joints that alignment was not an issue for me.

The one piece that I had cut and threaded was galvanized and all others were black. Maybe I should have gone SS. Brass is even more money. I sanded the pipe and pained with high heat paint. Will it work, who knows.

Plenty of insulation is important. I wrapped 100 feet of 1/4 copper tube around the whole thing along with 2 layers of fiberglass insulation.

Since this is iron pipe you can get it pretty tight without fear of breakage. I used grease on the joints but someone else may have a recommendation for other thread sealer. I have replaced the exhaust twice, 10 years apart. No leaks using this method.

One thing I have not addressed is that the exhaust is mounted rigid. Since the engine is too I have not worried about it. But if I was more ambitious, I would put some type of flex pipe/coupling in the system. The engine does need to move just a bit for shaft-engine alignment.
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  #5   IP: 108.34.253.10
Old 12-07-2018, 12:23 AM
jcwright jcwright is online now
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Romantic Comedy makes an important point about the flex in this system.

Our T34c (#266) had the original engine bed (glass over mahogany) with the engine rigidly mounted by 4 hanger bolts. Though the engine was “rigid”, the hot section + standpipe assembly is large, there is some flex in the boat itself, and as Romantic notes, fore-aft alignment of the engine is also a factor.

Either the PO or the factory had mounted the standpipe to its cabinet using 4 thick inverted rubber “U”s, with the standpipe bolted to one side of the “U” and the other side of the U bolted to the standpipe cabinet. This provided some flex to the assembly.

This seemed even more important once I installed flexible engine mounts, so I replaced the flexible standpipe mounts with new rubber in the process.

I hope your installation goes smoothly.

Best regards,

Jack
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:55 AM
Tar34 Tar34 is offline
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Tartan 34 exhaust challenge

Thanks for the help guys, I’ll be sure to post my experience. I have a history of trying to reinvent the wheel so your experience is helpful. I will be rebuilding the exhaust from scratch from the manifold back. The new manifold gasket should arrive Monday. I’m attaching a photo of the old stack. I assume the T is added to collect condensate? Anyway two photo for you.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/drm1bg6564...94812.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6z2e74girp...94955.jpg?dl=0
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  #7   IP: 24.152.132.140
Old 12-07-2018, 10:59 AM
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I think someone used the Tee as a coupler unless it's for some mystery winterizing function. There should be no water in that area at any time.
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  #8   IP: 108.34.253.10
Old 12-07-2018, 11:42 AM
jcwright jcwright is online now
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FWIW, a T fitting like the one in your second photo was also part of the hot section on our 34c. I don't know whether this was the original setup or the work of a PO. I included a new T each time I replaced the pipe, but I see from Ndutton's comment that this 'appendix' may not be needed. One downside to the T is that it makes it harder to do a neat job when covering the pipe with fiberglass and exhaust wrap. -Jack.
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  #9   IP: 96.238.21.148
Old 12-07-2018, 12:15 PM
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Jomar Seal Hi Temp - I found it on line. I have had problems with leaks (Tartan 34 also) this stuff seems to work, I did the exhaust last spring and no issues so far.
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:29 PM
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[QUOTE=romantic comedy;115259]I agree with Jack.


Plenty of insulation is important. I wrapped 100 feet of 1/4 copper tube around the whole thing along with 2 layers of fiberglass insulation.

/QUOTE]

Why the copper pipe? Did you make a water heater out of it?

Last edited by Administrator; 12-07-2018 at 06:20 PM.
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  #11   IP: 71.208.62.184
Old 12-07-2018, 11:15 PM
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[QUOTE=joe_db;115271]
Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
I agree with Jack.


Plenty of insulation is important. I wrapped 100 feet of 1/4 copper tube around the whole thing along with 2 layers of fiberglass insulation.

/QUOTE]

Why the copper pipe? Did you make a water heater out of it?
The exhaust runs thru a cabinet and it can get very hot. I am surprised that a Tartan 34 has not caught fire yet. Even with two layers of FG insulation the wood was too hot to touch when I ran the ICW, hour after hour.

I decided to be creative and a bit silly by wrapping the copper around the insulated pipe. I figured that just the copper would be enough but I could run water thru it. It would be only for cooling as I doubt the water would get very hot, plus it is 100 feet long! It would take pressure and have low flow.

Sometimes I do things as a sort of experiment. This was one of those times. Mounting an aluminum plate on 1/8 inch stand offs on the wood would probably be easier and the more appropriate way to do it. I still like my tubing though. Smiley face!
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