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Old 04-15-2017, 03:51 PM
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water leaking from plug

I had to replace my exhaust manifold, and exhaust flange,,i also changed my exhaust hoses some what,,the water is coming from plug the furthest back,or closest to the rear of the motor,its intermittent, if i close the raw water value a little it seems to control the H2O, that sometimes comes from the plug,is my water return for the exhaust to close to the exhaust flange,,or where the water exits the manifold,?
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Old 04-15-2017, 07:32 PM
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I've seen this before. And although it looks like the water is coming from the plug, it's not. What happens is that a little trickle of water runs down the surface of the head, gets trapped in the depression around one of the spark plug holes, and starts boiling, giving the impression that it's bubbling out around the plug.

Now the trick is to figure out where the water is leaking from ( in my case, it was a cracked head ). Since you just messed with the manifold hoses and fittings, I would look there first.
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:44 PM
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I saw an engine with water boiling around a spark plug - it wasn't coming from the engine! There was a hose running over the engine that was dripping.
Find the source of the water then stop it.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:14 AM
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plug water?

Gentleman, Thanks for the advice,,i pulled the plugs poured a little MMO, in the cylinders, turned the motor over a few times,i will check it out today,,
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:36 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKBIRD2 View Post
I had to replace my exhaust manifold, and exhaust flange,,i also changed my exhaust hoses some what,,the water is coming from plug the furthest back,or closest to the rear of the motor,its intermittent, if i close the raw water value a little it seems to control the H2O, that sometimes comes from the plug,is my water return for the exhaust to close to the exhaust flange,,or where the water exits the manifold,?


"is my water return for the exhaust to close to the exhaust flange or where the water exits the manifold?"

Don't quite understand what you are asking here. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Did you do the Thatch Modification when you rerouted the hoses?
Water can also leak from the thermostat housing and run down over the head and collect in a spark plug depression.
BTW the cylinder nearest the trany is #4 cylinder.
Welcome to the forum. Let us know where the water is coming from once you get it figured out.

TRUE GRIT

Edit: I think I get it now. Are you asking where the water where should the water be injected into the exhaust system after it leaves the manifold?

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 04-16-2017 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:37 AM
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water entry into the exhaust

True Grit,,No water from thermostat ..all is well there,yes how far along the exhaust system should the return,be introduced, 5" to 8".and if it was to close could the water back up into the motor?,,im going out today,, i will be running the motor under load, i will see , if the MMO,, helped, Thanks
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:32 AM
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Here's a sketch with some instruction...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf exhaust system generic sketch.pdf (80.1 KB, 665 views)
File Type: pdf Replacing hot section.pdf (10.6 KB, 647 views)
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:22 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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BB2
Did you rebuild the exhaust system from scratch? Or what?
If you have a "production" boat (rather than a custom built, one off boat design) let us know the make, length, and year built. There is a good chance someone in the forum has one like it and can give you some specific advice on how to construct the exhaust system. Also previous owners sometimes do modifications that are somewhat less than grand.
If none of this applies go with the guidelines from Jerry's post.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:04 PM
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BB2 - pictures are also extremely helpful!
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:24 PM
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Thumbs up Thanks

Jerry, thanks for the drawings, it looks like i need to move my return further away and closer to my water lift muffler,,john, i have a charley mogan, 38 1971, hull #68,,so most of what i do is trail and error, some days its mostly error,,,so i will rework,,what ive done,,Thanks again, This forum and its members are,awesome,
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:39 PM
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Here's a link to a photo album of an actual exhaust rebuild to reference against the excellent drawing:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=73
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:53 AM
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Thumbs up ALLS WELL

i moved the return lower and further away,, its running as it should, pulled the water /oil mixture, new oil ,,all is good for now..thanks for the link Ed..
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:22 PM
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Did you ever find the source of the water leak? Where was the water around the plug coming from?
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:05 PM
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not yet

Tim,,i had to do another oil change,,which i knew,,it would take a couple of oil changes,to get the h20 out ,,but im thinking that by having my return for the water cooling,,line too close to my exhaust flange{exit}that water was backing up into the #4 cylinder,,,,also my run of piping was to level,,for to long ,,i needed to make a turn sooner,,so we shall see what shakes out,,,tomorrow after work,,,,
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:07 AM
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In the original post you said that water was leaking from around the #4 spark plug. How did the water get from inside cylinder #4 to outside spark plug #4? Was the spark plug corroded or somehow not seated very well?
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim View Post
In the original post you said that water was leaking from around the #4 spark plug. How did the water get from inside cylinder #4 to outside spark plug #4? Was the spark plug corroded or somehow not seated very well?
I noticed this too. Sort of figured there was two problems - water dripping onto #4 spark plug and water getting into the cylinder by way of the manifold because of poor exhaust system plumbing.
BB2 please clarify for us.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:13 PM
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not good,,,

The motor turned over,, ran for a bit a minute, two maybe ,,then died..pulled plugs, #4,and #3 cylinders,,,were wet,#1 seemed fine, water in oil,,not as bad as before,,,left the plugs out, laid a towel over the plug holes, and turned the motor over,, and #4,#3,, a huge wet spot on the towel #1,#2 was dry,,Left, the plugs out, changed the oil, let ever thing dry out, pored a shot of mmo in the cylinders, ,,went back this morning, ,with high hopes,plugs in, fresh oil, ..,,started after a few cranks, AGAIN, ran a minute ,,then died,,pulled the plugs, #3#4 wet again, pulled plugs ,towel over the holes turn over the motor,and again big wet spot, for #3,#4,,,,The Thu hull for the raw water intake was only open for seconds, before the motor stalled,,so is the head gasket ,,and or the head need replacing?..what i do know is the motor ran fine, from st. Augustine, to marathon,,,i did have to do a field repair on the exhaust,,on the way down, then i replaced the manifold, and exhaust,,, now things have headed south,,HEY its a boat, ,,all apart of the joy..
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:34 PM
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Replacing the head gaskets is not the most difficult job, IF that is what you need to do. You would need to use 2 gaskets that are sold here; 2 of the same head gasket - as recommended per Don Moyer.

I sometimes get some moisture on the engine head at higher revs for some duration. On my engine it comes from the studs that hold the "lifting eye"/alternator bracket and flows into spark plug depresssions of #3 or #4 - giving the impression that it might be coming from the cylinder.
Replaced the head gaskets some years ago but I may be looking for a new head at some point.

Has your oil cleaned up or is there more "milky" water in it after a short run?

Maybe taking the head off and examining it closely is not such a bad idea. Replace with new gaskets anyway.
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Last edited by CalebD; 05-03-2017 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:59 PM
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I think a pressure test of the cooling system is in order and if it fails, smaller isolated pressure tests to follow (block, manifold). You may be able to find the area of the problem before taking things apart then take a targeted approach.

I also would not discount the possibility of multiple issues. A one to two minute run time before shut down is coincidentally about the same time it takes to run through a carburetor bowl of fuel without replenishment. We don't like coincidences. One thing at a time though, follow where the testing leads.
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Old 05-04-2017, 11:01 AM
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the milky oil has cleared up for now [3 changes],,pulled the carb, going to clean ,,check things out,,the anti-siphon loop appears to be okay,,ordered head gaskets today,,i also have another motor that i used for my manifold,,and will use if i need another head,,it will probably come to that im afraid,,
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:29 AM
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Milky oil should clean up in about 3 oil changes. Been there, done that.

Your problems might clear up with replacing the head gaskets but bear in mind what Neil Duitton just mentioned:
- pressure testing the cooling circuit, even if you have to blow into it
- the fuel pump could also be the culprit. To test for this you can be brave and remove the fuel line after the pump to check if there is flow from the pump while the engine is running. I don't recommend this practice but it will prove whether or not the fuel pump is working (mechanical or electrical). You may spill some gas in the process.

Neil brings up a good point that there is only a few minutes of running time in the fuel hoses of most engine set ups. Could be there is no fuel delivery.

Do you routinely turn off your gas tanks petcock when the boat is not in use?

And is this a "V" drive installation?
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Last edited by CalebD; 05-05-2017 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:12 AM
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CalebD it is a 2;1 reduction,and i to turn off my fuel ,when not in use,,,im going over this morning ,,reattach the carb, and check the elec. fuel pump out ,,,Thanks again to everyone for all the advice
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:38 AM
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replaced the fuel pump,[elec.],,hung the carb,started and died,,, the raw water intake was only opened for a few seconds after the motor started, still water in #4,,and a little in #3.,Neil, the pressure testing is next,i will see what i can put together for tools,,for my testing,,,cheers,,hope ever ones weekend was good,
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:32 AM
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Home Depot carries this in their plumbing department for cheap.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:58 PM
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Cool

Well i ran a compression test on my cylinders, not looking good, #4-68..#3-65
#2-90,,#1-0,,what would cause a reading of 0,,if the head gasket was/is bad ,,should it have some,,compression,,,
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