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  #1   IP: 71.117.120.179
Old 08-18-2008, 12:26 AM
superdave474 superdave474 is offline
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a couple of random questions

I finished installing my rebuilt engine this weekend, and had a couple of questions I'm hoping someone, can help me with.

There is a wire that goes from the fuel pump to the solenoid. When removing the old engine, I tagged that wire as 'P terminal, solenoid'. As most of you are saying to yourself..'but there is no 'P' terminal on the solenoid'. And you are correct. The question(s) is: Did I simply misread the 'R' as a 'P', or was I just lazy and didn't want to write 'Positive' out in its entirety. Can anyone tell me what this wire is, and where I should be attaching it? I'm really bad when it comes to electricity, but it seems to me that if it went to the positive terminal, the fuel pump would run everytime I turned the ignition to 'on', thereby rendering the oil pressure switch useless.

Next puzzle: My engine does not seem to get up to temp. I managed to fry my temp gauge (see above comment regarding electricty), and have been running the engine with no gauge, just feeling the top of the thermostat housing as it warms up. Problem is, it doesn't warm up. I can touch the side of the block, just forward of the water jacket side plate (which I evidently had installed upside down) without burning my hand. I cannot touch the head, and the nearer to the head I touch, the hotter it gets, but I've never had a motor that I could actually touch the block after 30 minutes of running..Is this normal, or is it running too cold? Top of thermostat housing remains cold throughout.

Last question, one that I probably know the answer to. I cannot seem to get more than 2 knots at full power. bottom of the boat is filthy, I spent an hour swimming under and around it scraping all the growth off today. I got most of the bad stuff, and the prop is reasonably clean. So, the A4 will barely push the boat in forward, but my little 4hp kicker will get it up to 3-4 knots. Am I correct in thinking this is probably an adjusting collar issue? I can't bear the thought of spending another hour tucked in the far corner of the port quarter berth.

Thanks!
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  #2   IP: 24.165.132.243
Old 08-18-2008, 08:08 AM
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msmith10 msmith10 is offline
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1. Your fuel pump: quoting Don from a previous post:
"A single lead should come from the positive terminal of the coil and connect to one side of the safety switch (it doesn't really matter which side), and the other side of the switch should connect to the fuel pump.

Universal used to connect a lead from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid to the same side of the safety switch to which the pump was connected. This lead was to supply power directly to the pump during the time the starter was cranking and before oil pressure had risen above 10 psi to close the switch. We have discontinued using this connection to the "R" terminal. Oil pressure rises above 10 psi almost instantly upon engaging the starter the starter, and the "R" terminal has been known to release a spike of inductive feed-back from the coil in the starter solenoid when disengaging the starter which can damage the pump and/or blow the fuse between the safety switch and the positive terminal of the coil." Note that the wire between the coil and fuel pump should be fused (I think it's a 5 amp fuse, but you can search the forum for that spec).

2. I don't want to sound like a smart *** but you need to replace the temp gauge. I just don't think you can tell what's going on without it and you're going to need it anyway. Double check the wiring to the gauge (put temporary jumpers on) to be sure it is really a bad gauge. It could also be a bad sensor. If, however, you know you shorted out the gauge (those panels are a pain to work on-- bare conductors everywhere), I'd still do the jumper trick to test it.

3. Yeah, 2 knots is a problem, and unless you've got a kelp forest on the bottom of the boat, it's not due to drag. What is your tach (or your ear) telling you? How fast will the engine rev under load? Does it accelerate quickly in neutral and how does it accelerate under load? How is reverse? If the engine is racing at 2200 rpm and only getting 2 knots, your reversing gear is slipping. I would highly recommend buying Don's reversing gear DVD and you will be able to adjust the reversing gear yourself comfortably. If your engine will only get to 1000 rpm and maxes out, then the engine is at fault. Troubleshoot for low power.

Last edited by msmith10; 08-18-2008 at 08:12 AM. Reason: more info
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