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  #1   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-25-2020, 11:26 AM
tenders tenders is offline
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Hack or buy: split shaft coupling

So I found out last week that I have to remove the shaft from the coupling to replace the shaft seal before I can launch.

The shaft is such a bear to press out of the coupling that years ago, wanting never to do it again, I acquired a secondhand but unused split coupling from a guy on a different board who replaced his engine. I’d assumed it was a Moyer split coupling....but now after many years in storage I see that it isn’t. The necessary V-drive three-hole pattern is present, but the flange face is larger than the engine’s flange face, and the holes are too far out. Proximate, but no reward of a tobacco-laden vessel.

* Should I take this flange to a machine shop and have them redrill proper holes and remove some metal from the neck of the coupling to leave room for the installation of the necessary bolts? The holes can of course be drilled between the current holes.

* Or should I bite the bullet on the drop-in Moyer replacement? ($175).

Blue = one of my collection of old standard couplings (the current one is still installed on the shaft);
Universal orange-brown impostor = my carefully-hoarded intended replacement that now needs machining were I into install it

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Backstory: A stupid self inflicted off-season fuel spill dissolved the bellows of my old and detested Lasdrop Shaft Seal, which I’ve never liked. It was installed in 1995, had to be removed and reinstalled in 2001 to replace the Cutless bearing, and was replaced in 2008 when a fuel leak from the rusting old tank got to it.

It has been no drier than a packing gland, but is WAY more work to service since the shaft must be pressed out of the engine coupler while working under the V-Drive. This is the worst and least-rewarding job to do on my boat.

So it’s back to the old-school packing gland plus new graphite/goretex/Teflon packing.

Last edited by tenders; 05-25-2020 at 11:32 AM.
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  #2   IP: 107.77.97.101
Old 05-25-2020, 01:49 PM
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It looks like the split coupling is a 3/4-inch and the blue one is 1-inch. I think you must have a reduction gear in your vee-drive, so that would be a larger diameter prop, thus a 1-inch shaft.

I think you should sell the split coupling to an a4 owner with 3/4=inch prop shaft (Catalina ?) owner and buy the right part.
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  #3   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-25-2020, 03:25 PM
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This is my fourth time doing this over the years. Maybe fifth? I am absolutely certain both couplings are 3/4", and that the shaft is 3/4".

That blue coupling came off the boat in 2008 and has been cleaned up. I don't think the split coupling will do a Catalina owner any more good in its current configuration than it does me.

Last edited by tenders; 05-25-2020 at 06:22 PM.
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  #4   IP: 67.169.215.221
Old 05-25-2020, 04:40 PM
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The shaft-side hub looks to be a larger diameter than the blue one. If you redrilled it, would you have enough room to install the nut or bolt head?

Don't ask me why I know this.
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  #5   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-25-2020, 05:00 PM
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Yes, that would be part of the job. Some additional metal would need to be drilled or ground off from the neck of the coupling to allow the heads of the attaching bolts to fit. Also some room to let them rotate as they’re wrenched. More if they’re hex bolts; less if they’re Allen head bolts.
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:18 PM
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It may be easier to just buy the part from Ken.

That said, if you had a machine shop center it to machine out the new hole, remind them to index it so you still have full access to the split hub bolts. An easy mistake to make and not fun to workaround.
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  #7   IP: 107.77.97.101
Old 05-25-2020, 05:29 PM
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Yep, I'm all wet.

I zoomed in on the photo and the shaft hole looks same size. It was an illusion that they were different.

So with that, I would say* there is nothing wrong with a new set of holes 60-degrees off from the originals.
I would guess the machine shop quote will be the final deal-no-deal breaker.

My two cents anyway.

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Last edited by lat 64; 05-28-2020 at 02:16 PM.
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  #8   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-28-2020, 10:54 AM
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Ugh. I decided to pursue the most direct solution, and Moyer's coupling arrived yesterday. It's the same as the over-sized coupling I already have. The "direct drive" coupling diameter and hole pattern radius are simply not the same as those on the "vee drive without reduction" coupling.

I have a call in to MM for advice, and sure hope they'll let me return this extra coupling, but it looks as though my options are:
* Machine the oversize split coupling, or
* Install the cleaned-up original coupling
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  #9   IP: 100.36.65.17
Old 05-28-2020, 11:20 AM
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Have you checked McMaster-Carr? They have a wide range of shaft flanges, even available in stainless if you've got the money.:

https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-flang...aft-collars-7/
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  #10   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 05-28-2020, 03:40 PM
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Annoying that McMaster never crossed my mind. Their split couplings seem to have shorter collars, but they do have the promising three-hole pattern.

Unfortunately I just dropped both of my couplings off at my local machine shop to have the Moyer adapted, so I can't compare. The question is, do their couplings have the "Moyer" three-hole diameter, or the "Vee Drive" three-hole diameter.

Last edited by tenders; 05-28-2020 at 04:23 PM.
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  #11   IP: 100.36.65.17
Old 05-29-2020, 10:12 AM
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My V-Drive manual does not show the bolt circle diameter, so you'll have to measure. The McMaster flanges have a bolt circle diameter of 2 3/4", for both the 1" and 1 1/8" shaft models. (my shaft is 1 1/8").
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File Type: pdf 9684T400_FLANGE-MOUNT SHAFT COLLAR.PDF (88.4 KB, 529 views)
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  #12   IP: 24.198.115.78
Old 08-17-2020, 11:26 AM
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Closing this out: the McMaster couplers were a no-go, so I ended up reusing the better of my two used OEM couplers.

If anybody needs a Moyer 3/4" split coupler for a DIRECT DRIVE A4, have I got a deal for you....

(Don kindly accepted the extra coupler I purchased as a return - the available one is the one I've been carefully safeguarding all these years.)
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