#26
IP: 24.224.152.244
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Dave,
Here's what I have going on and it works for me and many others. -by valve open 1/2 and I just leave it there. -no thermostat. -spark plugs NGK XR4; these keep the top end a tad warmer and no buildup of carbon occurs in the combustion chamber. -my back up temp test is that IF I cannot hold my fingers on the head I need to be looking at why. Head stays just hot enough that I don't have to pull my fingers off. -I burn 5 gallons of fuel for 6 hrs of running time at about 5 kts. I have heard of some that do better mileage. My thinking is I'll run a little cooler and sacrifice a little mileage ... the engine temp has room to climb rather than going to borderline high temp while cruising.
__________________
Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#27
IP: 68.56.139.11
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I have FWC, and run at a consistent 180, with a thermostat. I cant hold my fingers on the head, ouch.
I leave the by pass valve open. Once in a while, it goes to 190, and I close the by pass valve a teeny bit, to get back to 180. Usually the temp goes way down. I spent 25 on a infra red thermometer. The thing sure is strange, i get all sorts of readings |
#28
IP: 74.78.183.246
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Dave
The Cooling Parts on this site has the following brass ball valve and check valve that restricts flow from the pump to the bypass loop. The flow is then directed in the cylinder chamber via the tee in the side plate. Full flow into the chamber should cool the engine down. It's also the proper path for anitfreeze and acid during those procedures. Here's a view http://www.moyermarine.com/images/cool48.jpg Tim |
#29
IP: 74.78.183.246
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Temp Report
Well now it seems a different story.
Ran the engine around the harbor at a good clip for 30 minutes. Operating temp never passed 160. This is completely different from previous trials where the temp went up to 180. The t-stat is still installed. The only thing that changed was 'jogging' the pressure regulating valve. I ended up taking the rod out to free the rod and nut rusted together. Putting it all back together was a guess. Now initial pressure jumps to 50psi and stays there for the duration. No up, down, growing, settling nothing. It seems a manual, secondary pressure gauge to directly read the pressure (as suggested) is really needed. Running the laser temp gun (by myself for this so had to grab my mooring to keep control of the boat). Engine temp 130 Front of Head 116-120 Block 86 Gauge itself sticking out of the head - 104 Top of head 99 Coil Top 130 at the band et Bottom 260 So I really don't know what is happening. This last run was clearly different the all the previous reports. It really does not feel bad and more operating time is needed to understand better. The t-stat is toast if I get a whiff of high temps. Now time to remind myself that this is a SAILBOAT! The rig needs adjustment and engine turned off. Regards Tim |
#30
IP: 107.0.6.243
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Sounds like progress. I still don't like that 50 psi reading - seems suspect, especially since it is so steady. 40 psi at cruise rpm is the ideal but at idle it can be much lower, 10 - 15 psi. On a cold start it's ok to see 50 or 60 but it should decline as the engine warms up.
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operating temperature, thermostat |
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