Fuel Pump ID? '79 Catalina 30

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  • NorfolkRagbagger
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 31

    Fuel Pump ID? '79 Catalina 30

    Been trying to get original equipment A4 engine going for some time, just now have had chance to trace problem. I now think it's the fuel pump. Ran well until early this year. I think.

    First, I found the crud shown in the first image from fuel tank, purged by a primer bulb at location of bulkhead filter. Pumped until it was gone; cannot remove fuel pickup from tank - "head" in pickup is bigger O.D. than bore in welded flange. Purged until no more contaminants. Waited a month for tank to settle, purged, no new "red goo." First attachment is clear plastic container with some fuel, and red goo contaminant. Whatever it is, it doesn't mix with gas. I figure whatever it is might have trashed the fuel pump.

    2nd image shows current fuel pump, 3rd image is shot of fuel pump from rear of engine, also showing the oil pressure switch (in yellow "circle"), I think.

    I've setup up the fuel line path with and without filter in place, and used priming bulb in-line to pressurize and prime line in all trials until bulb stayed solid. No start - with starting fluid, I get a burst of cranking speed, a few pops, started once for approx. 3 seconds after heavy dose of starting fluid. Removed spark plugs one and two, appeared dry. I've cranked a LOT (raw water intake off) and figure if fuel was getting there they should be wet.

    Now it's replace fuel pump and oil pressure cutoff switch time. I have not identified fuel pump (or removed it), doesn't look like what I've seen recommended, and for sale. I'd like a "remove and replace," thought some here could ID this fuel pump and recommend a new one. (never hear clicking when ignition is on) I don't know anything about the oil pressure cutoff switch, never had one before. Should replace that too? I understand it has a fuse, don't see one nearby and don't know where else to look.

    Anyone recognize the old fuel pump and oil cutoff switch and can recommend an easy remove and replacement for each? Pretty sure Moyer Marine catalog is just right, want to confirm. Ever seen this red crud in fuel before? (Tank is OEM under after quarter berth, aluminum, clean and looks like new on exterior.)

    Thanks to all for any input, comments or recommendations - the MM forum is an awesome place for A4 talk. This forum (and the reverse gear DVD) taught me everything about the reverse gear 2 years ago - now I hope we can do it again!
    Attached Files
  • roadnsky
    Afourian MVP
    • Dec 2008
    • 3101

    #2
    No Brainer...

    Get the MMI model specifically for your CAT 30 (Product No. - FPMP_02_194)
    It's totally plug-n-play. You can do the R&R in 30 minutes.
    If you need convincing, call Ken in parts and he'll take care of you.

    When you get the new pump, put filters in line.
    A Racor and polish filter would keep most crud from getting to your pump and carb.

    "No start - with starting fluid, I get a burst of cranking speed, a few pops, started once for approx. 3 seconds after heavy dose of starting fluid. Removed spark plugs one and two, appeared dry. I've cranked a LOT (raw water intake off) and figure if fuel was getting there they should be wet."
    The plugs wouldn't be wet. Check for fuel by removing the FLAME ARRESTOR and look inside for raw fuel. If it's dry, you're not getting to the carb.

    What condition is your carb in?
    Do you have Don's NON START CHECKLIST? (I'm attaching it in case you don't)

    PS - It looks like you need new fuel hose lines too...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by roadnsky; 08-23-2009, 08:50 PM.
    -Jerry

    'Lone Ranger'
    sigpic
    1978 RANGER 30

    Comment

    • keelcooler
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2008
      • 282

      #3
      Jessie,
      Your wiring ends to the safety switch look mighty green. Hot wire by pass safety switch to see if pump clicks and pumps. The pump looks old and may be time for a new one anyway.

      Comment

      • NorfolkRagbagger
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 31

        #4
        Fuel pump input

        Thanks to both of you for your valuable input. I'll try the bypass on the pressure switch; good idea, and I should have seen the Cat 30 notation re the fuel pump - thanks for waking me up.

        I understand that it is a presumed safety feature for the oil pressure switch to cut off fuel in the event of oil pressure loss (or apparent loss), but, I think this is a dangerous feature. If oil pressure drops, or the sensor thinks it dropped when maneuvering in tight quarters, I'd rather hear a low pressure alarm and I'll make the decision to kill the engine myself rather than the boat saying "we just shut down the engine - ha ha - let's see you dock now!"

        Thanks again!

        Comment

        • sastanley
          Afourian MVP
          • Sep 2008
          • 6986

          #5
          If my Catalina 30 had an oil pressure sensor that shut off at 10 PSI, my motor would never run!

          I have a mechanical fuel pump (so no worries about an electric pump or its safety 'features'), but I often have less than 10 PSI of oil pressure. It is about the only gripe I have with the motor right now, and I working on fixing it. As the engine warms up pressure eventually gets to 20 PSI or so, but the first 30-45 minutes it is often very close to or under the "10 psi/1000 rpm" safety threshold that Don talks about.

          I'd definitely make sure all the electrical connections are good and try bypassing the switch to insure you are getting good 12v to the pump for troubleshooting purposes.
          -Shawn
          "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
          "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
          sigpic

          Comment

          • tenders
            Afourian MVP
            • May 2007
            • 1440

            #6
            The purpose of the oil pressure shutoff switch is not to turn off the pump if you have low oil pressure. Its purpose is to run the pump ONLY when you have high oil pressure--ie, when the engine is running. Otherwise--if the engine stalls and the pump keeps running, or if you leave the ignition key on without starting the engine--the electric pump could keep pumping and (theoretically) overwhelm the needle valve in the carb, pump all the fuel in the tank into the bilge, etc.

            Comment

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