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The further we go down the coil "rabbit hole" the more I am beginning to appreciate the influence that devices can have on voltage. The electric fuel pump definitely reduces available voltage at coil+ if it is connected there. My solution has been to create independent circuits making sure that coil+ has it's own dedicated path back to the most stable voltage source available.
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Ido not know with certainty that it was the coil. Unfortunately my aiming was poor on the camera so I didn't even zero in on the coil. I'm not going to have a chance to make it back to boat until Thursday morning.Originally posted by HalcyonS View PostComment
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For those that are interested, I managed to upload a video of crank/shutdown.
You'll notice that this time it did NOT making the squealing noise.
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Maybe the points\EI were open when the engine quit in the video.Originally posted by sousou View Post
I'm almost certain you have a choke\to rich issue. Try pushing the choke in - that is open - as soon as the engine starts. Try playing the choke in different positions as soon as the engine starts. Also confirm that the choke is working correctly.
TRUE GRITComment
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Really appreciate your help and knowledge here!Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Curious as to what leads you down the choke\too rich path. When the problem first manifested itself, I was motoring out of the marina after an extended warm up (under load) and ~5 minutes of motoring down the fairway. The motor died all at once as it did in the video. That hasn't been my experience in the past with over-choking.
I've got a list of items to trouble shoot this week and I'll add this to the top!Comment
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Today's Bet
Sounds like you have crud in the carburetor. It probably happened during the motor trip when the engine died. Now you can't get it to idle. The fuel related cause of a poor idle are too rich or too lean of a mixture. I know you are too rich rather than too lean because the engine starts so easy. If the mixture was too lean you would have a hard to no start condition.
Anyway:
Before you take the carb apart and clean it out try these two "adjustments":
Proper function of the choke - previously mentioned
Turn the idle mixture needle in until it is lightly seated then back it out 1 1/2 turns.
Best of luck.
TRUE GRIT
PS: What happened with the blown fuse issue?Comment
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Will take a look at those adjustments if the Fuel Pump is functioning correctly. The Mixture is backed out 1 & 3/4 quarters turns. I used to have trouble idling in gear after the motor was warm, but I haven't had that issue in several months.
Tracking down the blown fuse & fuel pump issue are projects for tomorrow morning! Sorry if it wasn't clear!
Rough outline of steps tomorrow:
- Run Fuel Pump Directly off battery (through 5amp fuse). Going to do this to verify whether the FP is completely shot.
- Check voltage into coil and resistance. Want to verify that I don't have something that is frying my coil and subsquently my fuel pump.
- Replace inline fuel filter.
- Assuming I don't have any electrical issues and the previous pump is dead, I'm going to install the new electric fuel pump
- Crank Motor
- Depending on how it runs at crank, I'll look at adjusting the mixture at the carb.
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Few comments:
I would trade 3 inches of cabinet space under my sink of my E27 for 3 extra inches in my motor compartment! What a pain!
I clearly didn't think through my steps below as checking the voltage requires a running engine. This is how I spent my morning:
- Confirmed resistance in coil
- Tested Fuel Pump (Busted)
- Attempted to remove fuel pump
- Cursed
- Removed fuel pump
- Replaced inline filter
- Attempted to attach fuel pump
- Cursed
- Cursed
- Attach fuel pump
- Reconnected all the fuel lines & wires
- Started Motor
Started like a champ & ran like a dream for 10 minute before I had to pack up and head to Thanksgiving dinner. Going t give it a more thorough test tomorrow and will report back on voltage into coil.
I'll also need to fiddle with the choke as opening and closing no longer has any noticeable effect.
Appreciate all the tips and suggestions. I definitely have some pointers for folks installing new pumps in the future!Comment
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You did not throw any wrenches?Comment
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Only if the ignition system wiring is too small. That's the definition of voltage drop.Originally posted by hanleyclifford View PostNeil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few othersComment
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You might want to take a look at the diaphragm on that pump during your annual maintenance. On my 1977 the pump worked great, but the diaphragm was showing its age. I think it might have worked for a long time, but they will eventually fail. So I installed the Moyer rebuild kit to get another 35 trouble free years out of it.8 years? My boat was built in 1979. The A4 still has the original electric fuel pump. Seems to still be going strong.MikeComment
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So I managed to make it out to the boat for a few minutes today and took some readings.
Volts at Coil: 13.6 at high RPM in gear (i don't have tachometer)
Ohms: 3.3-3.5
Does that look OK? The coil is definitely hot to touch. I can touch it maybe 3-4 seconds before crying uncle.
Any reason a 3 ohm coil would measure 3.5? Maybe I need to head back and take a better reading?Comment
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It's pretty common for coil resistance to vary around 10% of specification, don't know why, it just does.
Do you have electronic or points ignition?Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few othersComment
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Tolerances.
You meter may be a little off. The coil may be a little off.
Nothing is ever exact. Drill a 1/2 hole in a piece of steel. The drill was 1/2 inch at what temperature. The hole will vary with temperature......etc.
Guys here will measure the coil and then accept that as the absolute fact. There is always some error.Comment
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