#1
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Exchanging Accessory Drive How-To Needed
I have read in a separate thread that a grinding metal-on-metal sound when in neutral or in forward at low RPM is likely the Accessory drive on its way out. I can't think what else it might be as the engine otherwise functions fine (touch wood). So I am looking at ordering the part from Moyer and doing the job myself over the winter layover on the hard. I'm a bit of a do-it-yourself type so don't mind the work and I'll learn something along the way. But, I also know when I don't know, so I'm asking for direction. To avoid a huge F-up, what do I need to know when swapping this out? Once off, does the new drive simply slip in the same way the old out came out, do I need to make note of how shafts are aligned, or how the distributor works into this or anything else? BTW, I have electronic ignition and distribution, so does that make a difference? Thanks All.
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#2
IP: 24.152.132.140
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It is imperative you read this post:
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...39&postcount=1 Post back if you have any questions.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (08-29-2018), sastanley (08-31-2018) |
#3
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Thanks Neil, that's very information. However I am not removing the distributor per se but rather the accessory drive. My concern is really around when removing the accessory drive are there any connections within it governing the distributor in some fashion that I need to ensure are aligned the same way when installing the new accessory drive. If there are and you know, I'd appreciate the knowledge transfer. Cheers.
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#4
IP: 141.239.218.236
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Quote:
BUT, Neil is correct. Read the post he linked for you. You WILL have to remove the distro to R&R the AD. The important detail is to get the dizzy orientation re-installed correctly. IIRC you'll have to turn the pulley on the AD slightly to get the gears to align with the water pump and crank gear. (See pic) I don't remember that being really difficult. HOWEVER, you do NOT want to turn the engine even the slightest while the AD is out or you've caused yourself a timing issue. In the last pic, you can just make out the gear that the dizzy needs to align with in the AD hole. (Someone correct me if I'm mis-rembering here) Do you already have the new" AD? I would strongly suggest calling Ken at MMI and he could easily talk you thru this better than I am...
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (08-31-2018) |
#5
IP: 71.178.80.35
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Too bad I can't double thanks Jerry's and Neil's posts. So I'll just do it here with text.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#6
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Accessory Drive replacement
Thank you all. I'm a bit flummoxed though as to why I need to remove the Distributor when it doesn't seem directly connected to the AD. I was thinking at most to need to be careful when removing the AD in case there is an indirect link in it to the Distributor. Seems more complicated then I initially imagined. Are there instructions anywhere from start-to-finish?
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#7
IP: 50.54.60.149
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Quote:
The dizzy goes in the hole shown on picture number 2 of Jerry's post so it needs to be removed but not before the orientation of the rotor is noted in accordance with the excellent instructions and warnings found in Neil's post. Once removed, the AD can be removed. The dizzy runs off a gear on the crank shaft (crank shaft timing gear), it does not run off of the AD gear. As long as you don't have any timing marks on the pulley (some do) there is symmetry and no special orientation is needed with the AD. If you do have a timing mark on the pulley, you need to put it back in with the same orientation as you took it out.
__________________
Jim Zeller 1982 Catalina 30 Kelleys Island, Ohio |
#8
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Okay, I'm beginning to get the picture. Enough questions then, it's time to get my hands dirty. Thanks again everyone.
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#9
IP: 174.192.21.216
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Accessory Drive Exchange
I’ve been patiently waiting for someone to reference this gem from the Support/Tech Tip section of the Moyer site:
https://moyermarine.com/techtip001-2-2-2-2-2-2-2/ This, plus the FAQs, and other sections, like the instructions for all the kits, as well as using the Search function of this forum, can bring Fast, Fast Relief! |
#10
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Quote:
Studying the attached picture and Figure 1 on page 5-1 of your Moyer Manual you'll see the accessory drive gear meshes with an idler gear off of the crankshaft gear. The distributor is driven off the slant tooth gear within the accessory drive. As stated by others, the distributor mounts into the accessory drive so it will have to be transferred from the old drive to the new one at which time the timing advisement comes into play.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
zellerj (09-28-2018) |
#11
IP: 216.123.165.14
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First things first
Hmm, thanks all, just caught up with the readings. So to start I need to remove the distributor...now how exactly is that done, particularly what bolts hold it in place, and are there detailed instructions anywhere?
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#12
IP: 137.200.0.112
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There is one bolt that holds it on. I always mess up the timing, so maybe someone will post a way to put it back correctly.
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#13
IP: 216.123.165.14
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It must be that one bolt at about the 12 o'clock position if looking at the AD facing aft.
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#14
IP: 71.222.35.40
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That is correct.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#15
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Thanks for confirming. It is starting to make sense now and doesn't seem as daunting as at first blush. So it's removing the distributor first, then maybe the water pump to get at the bolts for the AD, then reverse order to replace the lot. It's probably easier though if I remove the spark-plug wires first before lifting out the Distributor. Any other tidbits of lessons learned would be appreciated. Also, where's the thingy I need to mark the position of so I don't upset the timing when replacing the distributor?
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#16
IP: 71.222.35.40
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Quote:
Here's a pic of the cavity with the AD removed and you can see the water pump. (See pics) Quote:
I suggest that you re-read the post that Neil referred to earlier in this thread. Here is the link That post will address your other questions and is exactly the procedure that I have used.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post: | ||
thatch (09-28-2018) |
#17
IP: 216.123.165.14
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Yes thanks, I read that post earlier and have saved a link to it as I intend to follow those instructions.
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accessory drive, engine noise |
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