C30 Stalling Problem

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  • velowe
    Frequent Contributor
    • Sep 2010
    • 9

    #16
    Jerry,

    I changed all the fittings to 3/8". When I prime the system with the primer bulb, there are no leaks at any of the fittings.

    Kelly,

    All the electrics were replaced including the condenser. Nothing has been changed on the stuffing box. When it stalls and I put it in neutral, I can turn the prop shaft by hand so it is not seized or I would have to wait for a cool down period but it will start up right away.

    Vern

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    • velowe
      Frequent Contributor
      • Sep 2010
      • 9

      #17
      To everyone,

      I appreciate all the replies to my stalling problem. Last weekend, I ran the engine from a 5 gallon jerrycan, bypassing the Racor and feeding direct to the electric pump with the same problem after 20 minutes. This past week, I was talking to the local A4 mechanic and reviewed all the changes to both the fuel and electric systems and he felt I had covered all the obvious items.
      His suggestion was that it certainly sounded like an electric problem that was also heat related due to the shorter run cycle times after each stallout. He advised me to check the wire from the coil to the distributor. I removed the wire and put it on my tester. Although it read <.6 ohms, as I bent and twisted the wire, the reading fluctuated somewhat upwards of 70-80 ohms. Externally, the insulation was intact with no bare strands showing or nicks in the insulation or crushed sections. I replaced this 30 yr old piece of 7 inch wire, started the engine and it ran for over 2 hrs before I finally shut down the engine. The old wire may have had some broken strands internally which was not visible on the outside but was affected by heat, causing high resistance in the circuit.
      Lesson learned - Replace old parts after 25-30 years, even though they may appear good on the outside.

      Comment

      • sastanley
        Afourian MVP
        • Sep 2008
        • 6986

        #18
        now that is what we like to hear!

        The other wiring of the Catalina 30 is also suspect since the engine is farther forward than most other boats, so the longer wire runs (and two connections) create more chances for breakages & resistance. This is well documented within the C-30 fleet..if the little short wire from the dizzy to the coil was bad, the rest of the wire is likely in similar condition.

        I haven't done it yet, but on my list is replace the entire ignition wiring on the boat. I carry enough of 14# wire (a whole spool) for emergencies on board if I have a problem.

        Nice work on the fix!
        -Shawn
        "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
        "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
        sigpic

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        • velowe
          Frequent Contributor
          • Sep 2010
          • 9

          #19
          Shawn,

          I have already run new wires from the ignition switch direct to the coil, bypassing the original wire harness. Due to the "long" run on my C30, I used 12 gauge wire to be sure that there would not be any voltage drop to the coil.

          Vern

          Comment

          • ArtJ
            • Sep 2009
            • 2175

            #20
            I am wondering if fuel pump problems are more common with those of us
            who have firewall mounted pumps, rather than directly mounted electric
            pumps on the engine? Maybe not being mounted low or directly on the
            engine causes some of the shutdown problems. The pump may prefer
            being mounted directly and lower than possible with firewall pumps. It
            may like gravity on its side??????

            This could be part of a poll - shutdown problems with and without
            firewall mounting of electric pump??

            Comment

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