Can’t shift into forward detent or get reverse

[Al Schober]

No, that's not it. Thickness is to fit into that slot. ID about 1/8 or 3/16 (to fit the pin that goes into the hole. OD about 3/4". Get a magnet on a stick and go fishing in your transmission - you'll likely find it!

[thatch]

Since you have the forward clutch pack now working, the next step I would take would be to align the tab on the brake band reversing bar into it's intended hole and tighten the reversing band adjustment nut until the band is snug around the clutch pack drum. If the 1/2"od roller is still in place the reversing bar should now be resting flat against the side of the reverse band brace. If all of the parts now line up correctly, you should then loosen the large adjustment nut just far enough to allow the forward drum to turn freely. At this point the final adjustments for forward and reverse should be made in small increments.
Tom

[lost in translation]

Thank you both. I'm going to see if the roller is there this weekend and if so, continue as you advise. If I can't locate it or find it with a magnet, I will need to replace it.

Two questions if the roller is missing from the brace pin.
1) Is the brace pin (https://moyermarine.com/product/impr...ar-ktas_02_87/) difficult to remove from the reversing bar? I was afraid it was a press fit. I did not see a cotter pin on it as shown in the link above.

2) Is there something I could bring to work as a roller if the roller is in fact missing?

[thatch]

If the roller is missing, there are two ways to remove and replace the brake band adjusting bolt. One method is to remove the upper half of the reversing gear housing, which involves considerable disassembly, or to use the "Kaminsky" method. It is described in detail in the "tech tips" section, and really is the more logical way to remove the bolt/roller assembly. If you look in the parts section, you will notice that all of the Moyer supplied housings and engines have this really cool mod.
Tom

[Administrator]

If the roller is missing, there are two ways to remove and replace the brake band adjusting bolt. One method is to remove the upper half of the reversing gear housing, which involves considerable disassembly, or to use the "Kaminsky" method. It is described in detail in the "tech tips" section, and really is the more logical way to remove the bolt/roller assembly. If you look in the parts section, you will notice that all of the Moyer supplied housings and engines have this really cool mod.
Tom

You can see evidence of the Kaminksy mod here, on the port side of the housing in a Moyer rebuild.

Bill

[roadnsky]

... use the "Kaminsky" method. It is described in detail in the "tech tips" section, and really is the more logical way to remove the bolt/roller assembly.

Since the TECH TIPS are not as common on the site as they used to be and maybe even a bit hidden () here is a link.

[lost in translation]

Since you have the forward clutch pack now working, the next step I would take would be to align the tab on the brake band reversing bar into it's intended hole and tighten the reversing band adjustment nut until the band is snug around the clutch pack drum. If the 1/2"od roller is still in place the reversing bar should now be resting flat against the side of the reverse band brace. If all of the parts now line up correctly, you should then loosen the large adjustment nut just far enough to allow the forward drum to turn freely. At this point the final adjustments for forward and reverse should be made in small increments.
Tom

Tom, after some frustration today working on the system and moving the forward adjustment collar to no avail, I re-read your instructions and realized I was just not tightening the reversing band enough. It took about 10 more wrenches on it (each 1/6 of a turn or so) to get the reverse band tight enough to lock the prop shaft. I then backed off one turn and now have reverse.

Yes, the reversing bar is a bit sketchy in the yoke, but it doesn't come off of its own accord so I will stick with this and hope it lasts.

Thanks again to all the contributors for helping me address the issue. I'm very excited to have a fully powered up reverse now.

Separate note - I tried using a magnet to fish for the roller that might have gone missing. I was unable to fish for it. The magnet caught on everything in the transmission and foiled my attempts to get down to the oil. Felt like a game of operation. I suspect the roller is still there but worn down. I did not get a visual on it.

[lost in translation]

The system worked well for a bit but was overly tight in the reversing band with almost no space between forward and reverse and some engine revs required to make the transition from reverse to forward. I was determined to live with this or back off one notch in the 3/4 nut as I had a good reverse finally.

After motoring for about 45 minutes one evening, I had a strange episode where the motor stalled in forward and would only go in a slow reverse.

I backed off the reversing band with 3 notches in the 3/4 nut and now am back to no reverse but good forward.

I removed the ship's shifting cable from the pedestal per Ken's request and identified that the forward / reverse shifter can go "past" reverse in engagement as I have experienced at the pedestal. I also identified that when the direct shifter is pulled through the maximum range, it can pull the reverse bar pin that is captured in the shift yoke out, which nullifies all chances of reverse.

Would love to solve this issue once and for all but it is proving difficult.

[roadnsky]

After motoring for about 45 minutes one evening, I had a strange episode where the motor stalled in forward and would only go in a slow reverse.

Can you go into a bit more detail on this?

Would love to solve this issue once and for all but it is proving difficult.

It may be time to start "at the beginning" to get to a known baseline setting.
Please read thru Don's most recent Newsletter posting here and also attached as a PDF.