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  #151   IP: 64.62.192.42
Old 11-05-2018, 02:35 PM
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Well I for one am jealous, and so is my boat! (First winter out in six years...)

Furling line probably depends on the exact type and size of furler that you have. My Furlex uses 5/16 yacht braid. (Well, probably 8 mm.) On decommissioning, I noticed some chafe in the portion of line that usually stays on the drum... I'll have to think about that. Since failure of that particular line can be particularly catastrophic, it may be a good idea to replace it at regular intervals. Or maybe whenever one replaces the jib sheets? My spinnaker pole topping lift parted on the last cruise of the year - guess I'm replacing all running rigging in the spring. $Cha-$Ching!
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:57 PM
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Did some searching and also came up with 5/16th line being used for that purpose.

Thanks for confirmation.
Think I'll go to the local West Marine for some good line that size.
It parted as I was pulling in to go home. Had to wind the furler in by hand.

There are only 2 lines I haven't changed since I got that boat...and that was one of them.
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:58 PM
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As Toddster noted, if your jib is on a furler, that is one line you do NOT want to fail, because you'll need it in a blow to roll up.
I'd make that sucker a high tech (like double braid spectra) low stretch line as big a diameter as I could get it all into the drum, the larger diameter being for handling purposes back where I am grabbing it in the cockpit. Maybe even strip the cover in the drum area to accommodate the above.
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:23 PM
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Were you a rigger in a prior life?

Bill
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:21 PM
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Enlarged pic of the furler hub. Seems like I have lots of space for rope.
Is it just me or is the angle of the rope a little high to get a good rope roll on the spool?

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Last edited by CajunSpike; 11-05-2018 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
Were you a rigger in a prior life?

Bill
No, but I did work in a sail loft, and the rigging shop was downstairs. However, higher tech fibers like Spectra did not exist back in the day when I worked there...They were just putting kevlar in sails then and still learning how much that kevlar, while a wonderful synthetic fabric, did NOT like being exposed to UV one bit.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:35 PM
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Old saying about jib furlers when they first came out and were notoriously unreliable:
Sails go up and down, toilet paper goes round and round
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:44 AM
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Besides the line, it might also be worth contemplating the cleat. I’ve been clearing the furler line off in a clam cleat. (Which really belongs to the spinnaker sheet...) When the wind starts playing around over 20 knots, that line should be securely cleated off on a nearby horn cleat. But sometimes I forget. Having the 135% self-deploy in 25 knots is... sphincter tightening. Funny how it always does that in a narrow channel or a crossing situation. What a comedian. I do NOT want to find out what that’s like in 40 knots. Got a new dedicated rope clutch to install...
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CajunSpike View Post
Is it just me or is the angle of the rope a little high to get a good rope roll on the spool?
Hard to tell from one pic. Looks like you could swap positions between that fairlead and the lifeline terminal. A couple of years ago, I moved my lifeline all the way to the top (didn’t previously have adjustable terminals.) Unless you have deck-sweeper sails, it seems like a good idea.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:43 AM
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While the fairlead on the pulpit maybe could be a little lower, from the angle of the pictures it looks to be a straight line running from the furler built-in fairlead.

That being said, adjusting the pulpit fairlead will do nothing for the position of the line on the furling drum if the furler fairlead is positioned too high (maybe bent?). Have a look at where that is in relation to the middle of the drum first is my suggestion.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:45 PM
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Cracked rear rail

What do you suggest to do about this? The rear rail is cracked 3/4th of the way thru, on both sides, same spot. Was enjoying the day when I noticed I could see daylight thru the railing.




Got the furler and the rear mast tensioner rope changed this weekend.
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Last edited by CajunSpike; 11-11-2018 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:10 PM
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In order of preference I would think
  1. Find a stainless welder with a portable TIG, have it welded, ground, acid washed and polished. Your local full service boat yard may be a source of referral.
  2. Buy a replacement stern rail and install. Perhaps research sailboat salvors and dismantlers in the recent hurricane areas, you might get lucky.
  3. Call Minney's in Newport Beach, CA, they have tons of rails. Inquire about shipping.
  4. Have a local railing manufacturer - - if one exists in your area - - make you one.
  5. Call Railmakers in Costa Mesa, CA. Big shipping again.
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
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Last edited by ndutton; 11-11-2018 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:41 PM
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It is a small job, but a super important one. I second Neil's suggestions in the same order. Someone that can roll the equipment down the dock from their truck may be the cheapest in the long run..Do NOT rely on those rails to withhold any impacts or loads in the meantime..it will only worsen, or catastrophically fail.

Probably the absolute cheapest is, if you do not mind the labor, you could yank it off and drive it to a qualified welder and re-install it.
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:31 AM
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Have a friend with a machine shop.

Probably will end up removing it and bringing to him.
Hope its not held down by nuts/bolts cause pretty safe bet they will all be corroded thus making the removal a bi-atch.
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Last edited by CajunSpike; 11-14-2018 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 11-14-2018, 12:52 PM
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Seems like a no brainer - if you haven’t already taken it off and rebedded it, it needs rebedding anyway. The only hard part with mine was gaining access to the bolts. (Apparently Ericson had a trained monkey contortionist, or they bolted all the deck hardware on before joining the hull and deck.) I had to cut a couple of access holes and installed deck plates in them. Behind which are now where the fore and aft extra anchor rodes live. Maybe the E27 doesn’t have quite as long a reach into the ends as the E29? If you’re lucky.
Other uses for an extra hole might be a place to store a wash-down hose or a cockpit shower. A bad use (which I’ve seen) I think would be stereo speakers - speaker cones make poor water barriers. Unless they’re in some kind of solid cabinet.
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:44 PM
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Cajun, in tearing apart at various times my own pulpits and stanchions, I have found that it is generally stainless screws and nuts, but I have on occasion found aluminum backing plates, that are sometimes threaded, instead of nuts/washers, most notably, on the stern pulpit of my Catalina. I've been able to remove and re-bed every one so far, but sometimes you need to squirt a good penetrate and let it sit...especially on those dissimilar metal bonds (SS bolt/screw into a aluminum threaded plate).

Also, almost every bolt was chopped off (with a hacksaw??), so the threads are buggered on the end and you need a wrench to get them off...or...if you don't have a helper, I clamp a pair of vice grips onto the nut, and then duct tape it to the underside of the deck so it hopefully doesn't crash into the boat when I get the bolt/screw out.
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"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
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Last edited by sastanley; 11-15-2018 at 06:21 PM. Reason: fixing sphelling and added some more
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Old 11-15-2018, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddster View Post
. . . . . or they bolted all the deck hardware on before joining the hull and deck
100% of the builders I worked for installed all the deck hardware prior to mating the hull and deck.
edit:
And 100% of the hardware was thru-bolted.
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Last edited by ndutton; 11-15-2018 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
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100% of the builders I worked for installed all the deck hardware prior to mating the hull and deck.
edit:
And 100% of the hardware was thru-bolted.
So you're saying I should give up on finding the trained monkey?

That reminds me of the exception that proves the rule. Or something. Ericson seems to have installed the hatches, both forward and companionway,with wood screws set into the upper deck skin. Albeit fairly thick portions of it. The connection was getting a bit brittle after 47 years. Replacing those with through-bolts required drilling a lot of access hole in the liner which then had to be plugged or covered with trim.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddster View Post
Replacing those with through-bolts required drilling a lot of access hole in the liner which then had to be plugged or covered with trim.
Those cabin liners are a blessing and a curse aren't they?
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"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
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Old 11-17-2018, 10:49 PM
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Found a pic of the rail attachments in one of my videos.
Anybody want to place a bet if its straight into the glass or bolted?



Going to try to find out tomorrow.
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:30 PM
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Put me down for thru-bolts. If Ericson cheesed out like they did on my pal's engine stringers (see Build Quality thread in the off topic section) you may have machine screws tapped into an aluminum plate in the deck laminate. I'm really doubting it though.

If it's done right, it'll be thru-bolted with a stainless backing plate. Knowing Ericson I'll slightly modify my bet to thru-bolts with fender washers, split locks, and regular hex nuts, all ¼-20.

One other thing I see in your picture is absent fastening slot alignment. Back in the day all we used were slotted fasteners and every piece of deck hardware I installed had the slots aligned to the hardware, a First Yacht Quality touch. Linear gear like tracks had the slots aligned with the long dimension, rectangular gear had the slots aligned with the nearest edge, for round gear such as your rail mounting feet the slots were aligned to the tangent of the nearest edge. It's a minor thing and adds nothing for strength but an experienced eye notices it.
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Last edited by ndutton; 11-25-2018 at 08:21 PM. Reason: added pictures
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Old 11-20-2018, 04:47 PM
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Through-bolted with 1/2" or 3/8" washers. BTDT.

When i tried to install backing plates in some of those places, I ran into the problem that the underside is curved - e.g. the outer bolts actually come through a fillet at the edge of the deck, so there is no flat surface for a backing plate to bear on. I punted and at least stuck some fender washers in, where they would fit. Maybe a backing plate could be installed with a heaping pile of thickened epoxy filler?

Last edited by toddster; 11-20-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:44 AM
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And the answer is:
1 and 1/4" stainless bolts with a flat head, 7/16 stainless nuts and regular steel flat washers. Two of the legs were accessible by removing ventilation hoods, on the back edge of the transom. Another leg could be gotten to by sliding into the rear berth. There was a precut hole in the inner lining, giving access to the nuts.
The last leg was accessible thru the cockpit storage locker. Was able to get all the nuts off except one.
The storage locker leg had 1 bolt where the slot was not square. Could not hold backup to get the nut off since the nut on that particular bolt was stuck. Could not grab the bolt top with a vise grip either. Probably going back tomorrow and cut the bolt head with a dremel to get it off.

Did take the boat out for a couple hours but the wind direction and speed led to a lot of unpleasant hobby horsing. There was enough bouncing to make the drawers fall/pop out of the cabinetry and hit the deck.

Tangled the furler rope when replacing it so when I tried to pull out that sail, it got hung up.

Main halyard also got stuck 1/2 way up. Had to drop main, untangle it, and go up again.

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Old 11-24-2018, 06:48 AM
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A marine tech friend told me that you could get a rough sense of the age of a boat by looking to see whether Phillips head screws had been used in the deck hardware.

The slot alignment on my own boat is as per Neil's comments in an earlier post.

Bill

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Old 11-24-2018, 06:49 PM
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Just when I was about to give up, since the remaining nuts/bolts would just spin with 1 person, somebody friendly appeared out of nowhere and offered to help. I must be living right.

Got the last three bolts off with his assistance.

When lifting the rail off the boat, one of the broken legs came off in my hand. I just broke off the opposite end to make it easy to load into the car.

Got it home now. Also found one of the other legs has a cracked weld on the hull end. This thing must have taken a pretty big hit at some point.
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