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  #26   IP: 206.125.176.5
Old 09-24-2012, 04:00 PM
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here ya go hanley..

Wrap the [ img ] tag around that and it should show right up in the thread!

(Hit the quote button on my post to see how I did it.)

This is also the same trick you can use to re-post photos without uploading them multiple times on the forum..once it is uploaded, it lives here..use your "User CP" to find all attachments you've previously uploaded and simply wrap the URL of the picture's location with the same [ img ] tag (with no spaces).

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Last edited by sastanley; 09-24-2012 at 04:03 PM.
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  #27   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-24-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernst View Post
paint with what?
I use automotive header paint. Etch first with muriatic acid (work carefully).
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  #28   IP: 108.12.172.101
Old 09-24-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I use automotive header paint. Etch first with muriatic acid (work carefully).
Hm. I have added a can of High heat coating from MMI's exhaust section to my order. I hope that will have a similar effect.
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  #29   IP: 108.22.232.154
Old 09-25-2012, 09:17 PM
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A bad purchase, and a new improved material

Quote:
Originally Posted by ernst View Post
Hm. I have added a can of High heat coating from MMI's exhaust section to my order. I hope that will have a similar effect.
Just got my package from MMI, as usual superfast (ordered Sunday night). Looks good, but it turns out the spray-on heat coating is really for the wrapper, not for the pipes (only good up to 1200F). I will re-use my fiberglass exhaust wrap, not the MMI wrapper so I guess I bought this for nothing. Anyone wants it?

"In other news," a friend suggested to use Schedule 80 instead of Schedule 40 pipes, because of the thicker walls. That makes a lot of sense, I will do that.
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  #30   IP: 138.88.71.210
Old 09-25-2012, 10:53 PM
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Whoa...ernst, I am confused.

Why not wrap the pipe in the new Moyer wrap, and then spray the wrap with the spray? I think that is how it goes, unless I do not understand how it works.

What is the difference between the wrap you have and the stuff you got from Moyer...??
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  #31   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 09-25-2012, 11:15 PM
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If you use schedule 80 you may have so much weight you will need "headstay" and "shroud".
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  #32   IP: 138.88.71.210
Old 09-25-2012, 11:26 PM
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Thumbs up

Nice work Hanley!!!!
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"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic3231_6.gif
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  #33   IP: 108.22.232.154
Old 09-26-2012, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
Whoa...ernst, I am confused.

Why not wrap the pipe in the new Moyer wrap, and then spray the wrap with the spray? I think that is how it goes, unless I do not understand how it works.

What is the difference between the wrap you have and the stuff you got from Moyer...??
The difference is that I HAVE the stuff. Meaning I don't have to buy it.

I bought a whole roll of industrial strength exhaust wrap (fiberglass, I think) when I built my exhaust system. It has worked great so I don't see why I should purchase another one.

And I also see no reason to spraypaint my wrap. I used two full layers and it worked perfectly so why change/complicate things?
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  #34   IP: 108.22.232.154
Old 09-26-2012, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
If you use schedule 80 you may have so much weight you will need "headstay" and "shroud".
Holy cow, I had no idea you have THREE pieces of 'standing rigging' on that! I had seen two (headstay and shroud) but not the third, horizontal one.

I have already a 3' piece of (stainless!) threaded rod on my shopping list. Was planning on a headstay only. I am, however, a bit of a loss at what to fasten it to. It is not clear from the photos what you used. Could you elaborate? FWIW I have a V-drive installation so everything is reversed. For the headstay, I thought about the water inlet fitting to the manifold, cobble something together with a hose clamp or something. There should not be a whole lot of force on that.

Oh, and I don't think Sch 80 vs. Sch 40 makes such a big difference. Most of the weight is in the fittings and those are the same for both.
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  #35   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-26-2012, 01:59 PM
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The third, unpainted, rod is actually for steadying a water pump riser. The manifold coolant outlet is used to secure the "headstay" using a steel bracket. The tension is set with the turnbuckle. As you can see, the system is first painted with automotive exhaust or header paint, then wrapped.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:30 PM
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Everytime I look at the picture of your hot section Hanly I think that would be right at home on our GE AC4400HP diesel locomotive engines!

WOW!


Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 09-26-2012 at 05:41 PM.
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  #37   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-26-2012, 06:46 PM
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Everytime I look at the picture of your hot section Hanly I think that would be right at home on our GE AC4400HP diesel locomotive engines!

WOW!

It was actually copied from a Westerbeke diesel we had on our Crosby launches.
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  #38   IP: 108.22.232.154
Old 09-26-2012, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
The third, unpainted, rod is actually for steadying a water pump riser. The manifold coolant outlet is used to secure the "headstay" using a steel bracket. The tension is set with the turnbuckle. As you can see, the system is first painted with automotive exhaust or header paint, then wrapped.
Okay, now I can see that the 'stay' is fastened to the manifold outlet. That is where I thought to go to, too. But of course a steel bracket (I presume a smaller version of what goes around the exhaust pipes) is a much better solution than the concoction with hose clamps I had in mind.

You are a fount of inspiration! I think I will copy your installation (I could not find a turnbuckle but I ordered some coupling nuts for tensioning).

Thanks a lot!
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  #39   IP: 108.28.109.76
Old 09-26-2012, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernst View Post
... (I could not find a turnbuckle but I ordered some coupling nuts for tensioning). ...

How will you use the coupling nuts for tensioning? With right-handed threads all the way through, won't they just move up or down without changing the length of the "stays"?
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  #40   IP: 68.56.139.11
Old 09-29-2012, 12:41 PM
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I used black iron and some galvanized. I sanded the pipes to remove the coating and painted it with high temp paint. I wanted to use black, but I bought the silver color by mistake.

I insulated it with thee wraps of fiberglass insulation.

I saw that someone said to paint the insulation instead of the pipe. I cant imagine why one would do that.

There should be 2 pictures here of the exhaust.

The pictures are too big, i think. I dont know how to resize them.
Attached Images
  
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  #41   IP: 108.22.232.154
Old 09-29-2012, 03:32 PM
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How will you use the coupling nuts for tensioning? With right-handed threads all the way through, won't they just move up or down without changing the length of the "stays"?
Duh <sound of hand slapping forehead>

Actually, now that you say it, I remember seeing coupling nuts with BOTH left hand and right hand threads. I suppose that would have done the trick. But the order is already placed.

Have to think of another solution.
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  #42   IP: 108.12.161.160
Old 11-18-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ernst View Post
Duh <sound of hand slapping forehead>

Actually, now that you say it, I remember seeing coupling nuts with BOTH left hand and right hand threads. I suppose that would have done the trick. But the order is already placed.

Have to think of another solution.
It's been a while but yes, I found another solution. Not terribly elegant but it works: Drill out the left-handed threads on one side of the turnbuckle, put in the (right-handed) threaded rod, put a (right handed) nut on it (inside the turnbuckle). You can see it in the "Exhaust Porn' thread.

Works.
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