#26
IP: 206.125.176.5
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here ya go hanley..
Wrap the [ img ] tag around that and it should show right up in the thread! (Hit the quote button on my post to see how I did it.) This is also the same trick you can use to re-post photos without uploading them multiple times on the forum..once it is uploaded, it lives here..use your "User CP" to find all attachments you've previously uploaded and simply wrap the URL of the picture's location with the same [ img ] tag (with no spaces).
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 09-24-2012 at 04:03 PM. |
#28
IP: 108.12.172.101
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Hm. I have added a can of High heat coating from MMI's exhaust section to my order. I hope that will have a similar effect.
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#29
IP: 108.22.232.154
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A bad purchase, and a new improved material
Quote:
"In other news," a friend suggested to use Schedule 80 instead of Schedule 40 pipes, because of the thicker walls. That makes a lot of sense, I will do that. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ernst For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-09-2020) |
#30
IP: 138.88.71.210
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Whoa...ernst, I am confused.
Why not wrap the pipe in the new Moyer wrap, and then spray the wrap with the spray? I think that is how it goes, unless I do not understand how it works. What is the difference between the wrap you have and the stuff you got from Moyer...??
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#32
IP: 138.88.71.210
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Nice work Hanley!!!!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#33
IP: 108.22.232.154
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Quote:
I bought a whole roll of industrial strength exhaust wrap (fiberglass, I think) when I built my exhaust system. It has worked great so I don't see why I should purchase another one. And I also see no reason to spraypaint my wrap. I used two full layers and it worked perfectly so why change/complicate things? |
#34
IP: 108.22.232.154
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Quote:
I have already a 3' piece of (stainless!) threaded rod on my shopping list. Was planning on a headstay only. I am, however, a bit of a loss at what to fasten it to. It is not clear from the photos what you used. Could you elaborate? FWIW I have a V-drive installation so everything is reversed. For the headstay, I thought about the water inlet fitting to the manifold, cobble something together with a hose clamp or something. There should not be a whole lot of force on that. Oh, and I don't think Sch 80 vs. Sch 40 makes such a big difference. Most of the weight is in the fittings and those are the same for both. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ernst For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-09-2020) |
#35
IP: 173.166.26.241
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The third, unpainted, rod is actually for steadying a water pump riser. The manifold coolant outlet is used to secure the "headstay" using a steel bracket. The tension is set with the turnbuckle. As you can see, the system is first painted with automotive exhaust or header paint, then wrapped.
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#36
IP: 174.94.30.246
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Everytime I look at the picture of your hot section Hanly I think that would be right at home on our GE AC4400HP diesel locomotive engines!
WOW! Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 09-26-2012 at 05:41 PM. |
#37
IP: 173.166.26.241
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It was actually copied from a Westerbeke diesel we had on our Crosby launches.
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#38
IP: 108.22.232.154
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Quote:
You are a fount of inspiration! I think I will copy your installation (I could not find a turnbuckle but I ordered some coupling nuts for tensioning). Thanks a lot! |
The Following User Says Thank You to ernst For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-09-2020) |
#39
IP: 108.28.109.76
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Quote:
How will you use the coupling nuts for tensioning? With right-handed threads all the way through, won't they just move up or down without changing the length of the "stays"?
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#40
IP: 68.56.139.11
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I used black iron and some galvanized. I sanded the pipes to remove the coating and painted it with high temp paint. I wanted to use black, but I bought the silver color by mistake.
I insulated it with thee wraps of fiberglass insulation. I saw that someone said to paint the insulation instead of the pipe. I cant imagine why one would do that. There should be 2 pictures here of the exhaust. The pictures are too big, i think. I dont know how to resize them. |
#41
IP: 108.22.232.154
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Quote:
Actually, now that you say it, I remember seeing coupling nuts with BOTH left hand and right hand threads. I suppose that would have done the trick. But the order is already placed. Have to think of another solution. |
#42
IP: 108.12.161.160
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Quote:
Works. |
Tags |
exhaust, flange |
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