No fuel suggestions...

[Al Schober]

Joe,
your #2 should be 'friend replaced coil and did other stuff'

I stand by my recommendation to forget about the fuel system until you can get a response from the ether. Jazz seems to want to go off and play with the fuel system. The gauge is a nice addition, but it's not solving his problem.

[Jazzydaze]

Nopers...was engine ran. Went home came back engine didnt run. Friend tinkers in here somewhere...then I Cleaned carbs..put on the spare coil..new plugs. Still no go.

So just tore into the carb and seems fine. I pulled the 3 and 4 plugs they were wet..spark is good...1 and 2 not as wet if at all, good spark. Starter fluid Zero help.

Why if i have spark does starter fluid do nothing???? The coil wire easily makes a half inch and the new plugs are sharp and blue. Stumped. Shes buttoned up and im done for a few days and off to work. Ill keep an eye on the thread if you guys get any ideas.
Im now thinking that SOMEHOW its just not firing when its supposed to. But how this happened after parking it and coming back to it a week later..no clue.

[Al Schober]

Why if i have spark does starter fluid do nothing????

EXACTLY what I'm wondering! I know how to find TDC on #1, position the distributor so the rotor points where I want, but I know nothing about EI. If you had points/condenser, I could help you further.

Recommend you get the literature for your EI system and get smart on it.

[JOHN COOKSON]

But how this happened after parking it and coming back to it a week later..no clue.

Did the "friend"maintain\improve the during the week? If yes ask him what he did to the engine.
If no do a compression test. There maybe a blown head gasket between two cylinders, most likely #2 & 3

ex TRUE GRIT

[Jazzydaze]

All friend claims to have done was to put the starter back on that I have off..remove and replace plug wires w photos.

I put my finger over the holes and bump the key it literally blew my finger off every cylinder almost painfully. But Ill order a compression tester and should have it for when i get back from this next trip. Round 3 coming up...Jazzy's looking a little bloody and wobbly in the corner!

[JOHN COOKSON]

Your plug wires should look like this:

ex TRUE GRIT

Edit: Be sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal on the distributor cap when #1 cylinder is at TDC compression

[Jazzydaze]

Hi,

As far as I can tell, its just like that. I found #1 tdc by watching for #4 valve to crack open. It coincided with the flywheel pin being vertical. In my case it was pointing at the Southeast hole in the dist if your looking towards tranny and thats North.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Hi,
It coincided with the flywheel pin being vertical. In my case it was pointing at the Southeast hole in the dist if your looking towards tranny and thats North.

If you turn the boat 180 degrees will the timing become 180 degrees off?
Just kidding.

The "stock " setting of the distributor and wiring into have #1 spark plug wire at 9 o'clock position when facing the engine from the flywheel end or the 3 o'clock position when facing the engine from the tranny end.

However, the engine timing will still be correct if the rotor is pointing to the distributor tower that has the wire to #1 spark plug when #1 cylinder is at TDC compression. Under this scenario #1 spark plug wire can be in any tower on the cap. This would be a "not stock" arrangement of the spark plug wires.

When it gets confusing (or when "friends" are "helping") it is usually easier to go back to the original setting and further troubleshoot from that setting if necessary.

ex TRUE GRIT

[edwardc]

Why if i have spark does starter fluid do nothing????

In order for the engine to run, you need spark, fuel, and compression, and they have to arrive at the same time (timing).

You have confirmed spark and fuel (starter fluid). A stuck valve can cause loss of compression, but this would only affect one cylinder, and the A4 can easily start and run on 3.

THERFORE, you must have a timing issue.

I know you said you had located #1 TDC on the compression stroke, but it is very easy to get this wrong and actualy be on TDC of the exhaust stroke.

There's a simple test. Simply rotate all the wire connections on the dist cap by 180 degrees, and try to start. If it runs (or at least trys to), you have your answer.

[joe_db]

Make sure you are turning the engine the correct direction when doing all this! Mine has an arrow to look at.

[Jazzydaze]

Hi all, and thanks for your continued interest. We will solve this!!

I did take note of engine rotation and verified clockwise rotor spin. Ive tried the wires everywhere. It coughs a tiny bit on the NE tower. But that makes no sense at all to the timing. What about broken electronic ignition in such a way that its off? Seems unlikely. I imagine its go or no go. The magnet only goes in one way right? Im not sure of the mechanics of those parts. I know points and condensors...lol. 3 days on the road then im back to it and trying all your suggestions again. Is there a way to verify tdc with a volt meter on those things?

[jcwright]

Regarding your question about checking timing, here is a section of MMI's installation instructions for 'Ignitor' electronic ignition kits. The second paragraph seems most relevant.

Hope this helps.

Jack.

-----

“INITIAL START-UP"

"If the distributor was not removed, or if it was reinstalled in the same orientation as it was before installation of the Ignitor, the engine should start and be very close to proper timing. It is recommended however, that the timing be fine tuned under power as described in the left column on page one."

"In the event that the timing was inadvertently disturbed during installation: (1) set the engine to number one top dead center, (2) reinsert distributor with the rotor pointing directly away from the block (late model), or toward the near corner of the oil filling lid (early models), and (3) use a 12 volt timing light across the positive and negative terminals of the coil to find the place where the ignitor opens the primary circuit - in the same way as when using points and condenser.”

[JOHN COOKSON]

What about broken electronic ignition in such a way that its off? Seems unlikely. I imagine its go or no go. The magnet only goes in one way right? Im not sure of the mechanics of those parts.

In post #1 you said you verified spark at each plug. This would indicate the EI is working.
You also stated in another post the choke is closing all the way.
If all the information in this thread is correct there are only two reasons why the engine will not start:
The timing is incorrect or you have been no start cranking with the raw water valve open and as a result there is water in the cylinders.

ex TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

I still think we might be missing something on the timeline.
The engine ran.
It was shut down.
<SOME STUFF HAPPENED>
It won't run.
Can you tell us EXACTLY what "some stuff" is? Thanks!

[Jazzydaze]

Heres is a more detailed timeline to the best of my recollection:
-Engine ran but had quit then restarted half hour later. (Led me to order coil). Noted a pin leak on water jacket cover.
-Removed side cover, ordered new gasket.
-Fought a stripped screw hole.
-Friend taps block and finishes side plate. Plug wires came off at some point. Put back on by ref to pics he took. He cant start it.
-Some time passes 2 weeks maybe.
-I go down to see plate job, engine doesn't run.
-I figure some crap in the carb and order carb gaskets. Remove clean and reinstall carbs.
-trouble shoot as discussed in this thread.

I have the through valve closed and believe I am of the standpipe variety. Also as I found out about this through valve thing I removed all the plugs and cranked it in case something had happened along the way, no water in cylinders.

Thanks for the EI info. Maybe on ei rotor position DOES matter for positioning of the magnet? Even though I think its on tdc right now..though its not pointing away from block??
Jazz