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  #1   IP: 151.203.110.73
Old 11-08-2008, 05:28 PM
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Block won't drain

Hi all.

I know I wrote a few weeks ago that I had winterized my late model A4 ("Thermostat winterizing question", this topic), but something was nagging at me and I had to get to the bottom of it. The something was this:

The block drain located behind the starter and alternator did not drain anything after the fresh water flush and before adding antifreeze. I inserted a wire to clear debris that might have been blocking the drain with no change in result. When I added antifreeze, I assumed, always a bad thing to do, that the antifreeze would push out any remaining fresh water. But, as time passed, I realized that I was not confident in that assumption.

I then determined to remove the thermostat to see, first, if I even had one, and then to see the content of any fluid I might find in the block. Removing the thermostat housing was an adventure; I achieved success today. (I have one dirty thermostat!) Indeed, the block was full of fluid, but upon observation it was clear that it was a mixture of antifreeze and water. Therefore, the block must be drained and new antifreeze installed.

But how can I do this if the drain is not functioning properly? The Manual says there is a second drain, shown in the panoramic view to be under the water pump, but I can't find it. Even if I could, it is probably blocked as well. I can pump the block through the thermostat aperture or drain it out the by-pass hose, but I'm not sure that would drain the entire block. Even if it did, I need to open up the drains provided for the purpose.

So:

How can I unblock the drain I can find?

Is it possible I don't have a second drain under the water pump?

Is draining the block through the by-pass and installing -100 antifreeze sufficient?

On a less important note, I may have stripped the threads on the studs to which the thermostat housing is bolted. How are they best removed in the event I need to replace them?

Thanks for all assistance.

Mark
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:07 PM
Dave O
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:35 PM
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Hi Mark

If you are referring to the drain that is immediately behind and to the top of the drive belt pulley ... I never get anything out of mine either. I do drain through the other 3 drains and then run 3 gallons of antifreeze rated -100F through the engine in case any residual water dilutes the -50F antifreeze that is sold.

As far as the drain plug beneath the water pump is concerned ... I can't really see it on my engine. I do it by feel. I did get a partial view of it when I took a photo of the impeller cover plate, by holding the camera at an angle and height that I can't get my head to. The pipe plug is located immediately ahead of and below the bottom of the impeller cover. If you look just below the lower impeller cover retaining screw you can see the top of it. It's a bit hard to reach.
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Old 11-08-2008, 07:41 PM
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Hi Dave.

Thanks for your quick response. Maybe I can salvage the rest of the weekend and complete winterizing.

Yes, I was referring to the one by the drive belt pulley. I'm glad to know someone else gets nothing there.

You referred to there being three other drains. Your good photo tells my fingers where to feel for the one I couldn't find. I know and drained a second on the exhaust manifold. Where's the third?

Everybody's got such nice looking engines! I don't think mine has been painted since the prior owner acquired it. But that's a project for next winter. Right now I want to be sure the rusty iron gets through the winter in one piece.

Mark
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:20 PM
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Mark:

Here is what I do. Others may have better ideas.

1. Remove t'stat. Let sit in white vinegar for 2 days. Then clean with toothbrush. Test opening temp on the stove pot of boiling water. Then dry, bag and label for next season. Do not reinstall till spring. Replace t'stat cover.
2. Open 4 drains. 1 beneath waterpump. 1 (as described) just beside pulley. 1 on same side of engine but ahead of starter. One on other side of engine (manifold). This is pictured on page 25 fig. 6 of the original atomic 4 manual. Let drain 5 minutes or so into bilge.
3. Replace all plugs. Use a sealant (I use pipe thread compound ... others use Teflon tape). I prefer compound.
4. Squeeze off bypass line to t'stat housing with vice grips.
5. Run engine for 1 minute pulling from a bucket of -100F a'freeze. I discharge into a large bucket hanging off the stern below the exhaust so I can be sure of the color of the discharge. I also do not like to discharge a'freeze regardless of type onto the ground.
6. Remove vice grips engine still running. Continue to run until I pull through 3 gallons (total) a'freeze. During last minute or so spray fogging oil into the carb inlet (I have already removed the flame arrestor). Stall the engine with fogging oil.
7. Shutt off all electrical.
8. Remove impeller cover, impeller and shaft. You will see a fair bit of a'freeze draining into the bilge.
9. Replace impeller cover and tighten.
10. Remove impeller from shaft. Clean, inspect, bag and label for next season. Do not reinstall till spring.

There are a variety of other steps but that is pretty much it for the coolant system. I am sure there are better or more effficent means but this works OK for me.
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Old 11-08-2008, 10:06 PM
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Dave,

Thanks for all the tips. You wrote my agenda for tomorrow.

Mark
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:20 AM
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mark,
Don't worry..not everyone has nice looking engines! Mine is all nasty and rusty too. For right now, as long as I can keep the rusty flakes out of the spark plug holes, I am happy!
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:56 PM
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We worked a good length of time today and I'm confident we got out of the cooling system whatever fluids were there and replaced it all with -100 antifreeze, which should be amply sufficient along the Massachusetts coast. It is clear, however, that I in the spring I have to replace the studs that hold the thermostat cover down. I was able to tighten down properly the forward nut but the aft nut simply spins on the stud. I'll try replacing the nut; but I think it's the stud.

How does one remove these studs?

Mark
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Old 11-10-2008, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark S View Post
It is clear, however, that I in the spring I have to replace the studs that hold the thermostat cover down. I was able to tighten down properly the forward nut but the aft nut simply spins on the stud. I'll try replacing the nut; but I think it's the stud. How does one remove these studs?
Mark, try a search using the search tool above. I ran "thermostat studs" and found a few references that will be of interest. Don left some comments in guestbook2, I see. Hope that helps. It's worth taking an hour to read through all the bits on this site when facing a task like that, I find.
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