#1
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Off the deep end, part II
Hi folks. This thread is the continuation of the "Off into the deep end" thread started in "Introductions".
I was getting a lot of great input over there, but as we started to get deeper into specific areas I felt I was mis-using the "Introductions" heading, so I thought it best to move over to here. If you take a minute as read what has already been posted, you'll see I have a potential large project on my hands that I'd like to document and share, if that's alright with everyone here. FYI, unless someone has shown more ambition than is apparent, the power plant in my Newport is an Atomic Four, which is what got me here. Looking at this boat, I can't imagine anyone would have replaced the engine any time in the past. I'll know for sure within the next couple of days since I expect to finally have "Equal Terms" (who lets a lawyer name a boat?) in my yard for clean out and the start of a complete survey before an action plan is drawn up. Anyways, I look forward to conversing with you all as this project continues. Who knows, I might get ambitious and blog my efforts. I doubt it, but then again I doubted ever getting the chance to sail the Caribbean again too. L8fe can be funny. |
#2
IP: 71.178.87.110
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Rick, Under the carb on the port side of the block is a date stamp..it is a 6 digit number..it is NOT the easily readable embossed number..I think that might be a casting/mold number.
Mine is 041976 for April 4, 1976 on my '77 boat. You spoke in the last thread about tearing the interior apart...all part of the process! I wish you success...based on your experience, it sounds like you have a head start, but most stuff I've learned have been from forum members here (like Neil)..they aren't just motor heads.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
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Ram41662 (12-18-2017) |
#3
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Hello Ram,
Look forward to following your 'project'. The A4 will likely be the least of it! Get the Moyer overhaul manual. Friend had a Pearson 35 with an A4 that was leaking oil and smoking up his cabin. His wife insisted he install a diesel (poor guy), and he gave me the A4 ('76 vintage). I brought it home and went through it. Gave it a new rear seal, rings, and a valve job. I put it back together, and it sat in the basement for several years until my A4 ('73 vintage) wouldn't start one spring - cracked block. Pulled the '73 engine out one afternoon, and the next morning installed the '76. This was about 20 years ago, and the '76 has been going fine ever since. I did add glycol cooling (heat exchanger) to prevent a repeat of the frozen block incident. Working on a A4 during the off season in the comfort of your shop is definitely therapeutic. Having a machine shop to help you is a big plus if you're doing any heavy duty stuff (flattening head or block, grinding valve seats, replacing bearings, etc). To repeat, get the Moyer overhaul manual!!! |
#4
IP: 24.121.255.187
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Ram, One of the things we did when we started our project boat was write a blog. Even if no one else looks at it we have a record of what we did to the boat. You never know when you will have a problem remembering how you installed something 5 years from now.
Now if I could just remember where I stored the rudder. |
#5
IP: 24.152.132.65
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Quote:
"What do you prefer about a diesel Honey, the noise or the smell?"
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Oldlaxer1 (12-19-2017) |
#6
IP: 173.30.41.140
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I FINALLY GOT HER HOME!
Yes, she does still have her Atomic 4, in original A4 bronze. Since I lost the weekend due to not being able to pick her up until today, the full survey will have to wait until have some free time. I am planning on placing her inside in a heated bay in the next few days so I can thaw get out, yes there is some ice inside, so I can get drained out. In the "better than expected" catagory, the deck seems solid. I walked all over it today felt no springy spots. It look like most of the water has been getting in a failed forward hatch and the companion way lid and hatch. Actually calling it a hatch is being generous, it's a thin piece of plywood that doesn't fit very well. Over all, she's in better shape than I expected. I'm probably still going to have to strip out the interior since it's had at least 5 years of water exposure, but that's the part I like best. I'll gett more pictures over the next few days so you can see what I've gotten into. |
#7
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Shawn, that one nice job you've done there. I like "yacht white" interiors. I think they look cleaner and are definitely brighter.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ram41662 For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (12-20-2017) |
#8
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Al, at rickandlee's prompting, I think I'm leaning very hard toward doing a blog for this project. I'm an old nerd who prefers photo and text blogs over video-blogs, so that's what I'm planning on doing. Now, i just have to look at my blog options along with cleaning out my boat, get the water out, do a full survey, set up a priority list, set up a Gantt chart, start removing what has to go, order what I need to replace or use to rebuild, oh and hold down a 50 hour a week job, so yeh this should be a snap...
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#9
IP: 71.178.87.110
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yeah dude, thanks..the original white gelcoat was not real bright...or it was 40 years old..and this definitely brightened it up. That is actually a cheap Rustoleum one part paint available at Lowe's for about $16/quart. It has been GREAT on the interior. I have used it on the exterior too and it holds up for a while to cover up not-UV resistant epoxy, but it doesn't last real long on the deck. For more permanent above deck refinishing and cover-up a good two-part epoxy like Alexseal (which I've used a bit) or Awlgrip or new gelcoat is the way to go.
You have a HUGE advantage having your new-to-you-boat in a heated shed!!! edit - we all look forward to your adventure..please keep us up to date.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 12-18-2017 at 11:44 PM. |
#10
IP: 73.129.213.235
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+1 on the rustoleum white from lowes, great on the interior spaces, but not great at all on the deck. We used some on the deck and it was chalking within a month.
James |
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sastanley (12-19-2017) |
#11
IP: 24.152.132.65
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If this boat has been kept in the snow belt the engine should get a cooling system pressure test.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Ram41662 (12-19-2017) |
#12
IP: 24.121.255.187
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We use blogspot.com. Easy, no cost, ties into other accounts we have. The only problem with a blog is it will glaringly point out the periods of time you have not worked on the boat. TOPOSS takes a backseat to house projects and, since we have a functional sailboat, sailing.
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Ram41662 (12-19-2017) |
#13
IP: 97.64.155.202
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Okay, just so you guys can get a little better image of where I'm trying to do this project, the bottom picture is of the exterior of one on my buildings. The two small legs are 65' x 120' with 16' ceilings. Not ideal to work inside of when the boat is on a trailer (low head room), but those bays are heated, so ideal to thaw/dry out in. The first two pics are of my workshop space in the "second bay". As you can see, plenty of space. The back building is called "bay three" and is 75' x 150' with 20' ceiling. The bridge crane is in there, but it's an non-insulated/non-heated space. When I get ready to sling my boat out of the cradle, I'll make sure to shot pictures of that space too.
That being said, I am running a business here, so space under roof has value. That means I won't be keeping my boat inside all the time. It would be nice, but that space makes me money, so the boat will only be inside intermittently, as needed. I do have a space in my yard picked out that is out of the way, easy to access, has gone unused for four years, and has access to nearby 40 amp electric service. A bonus is it's near a retaining wall so I can put a gang plank from the area on top over to the side of the boat to make for easy access. One other clarification I need to make. I mentioned a 15 ton fork lift earlier, that was a brain fart on my part. It's only a 7-1/2 ton (15,000#), which is still more than enough to move the boat around. I took a minute to look inside closer now that it's on my property. It's not anywhere nearly as bad off as I first thought. Yup, there is several inches of ice inside and some woodwork is damaged or missing, but most of it's in pretty good shape. I'm looking forward to starting this project. |
#14
IP: 97.64.155.202
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ndutton, I'm torn right now between servicing the Atomic Four in place or pulling it to give is a full go over. I'm leaning toward a full, on bench, block out rebuild. It would make me feel better and give me an intimate knowledge of every component of the engine.
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#15
IP: 206.125.176.3
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If you are on the fence, maybe this will push you over.
I think a engine yank is especially a good idea if you don't know if the water level in the boat was ever high enough to get in the oil pan thru the dipstick. Looks like you have plenty of tools and forklifts and stuff to make easy work of pulling the engine.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#16
IP: 24.121.255.187
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So, what's behind the curtains The Wizard of Oz. Nice work space
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#17
IP: 100.18.8.142
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I wish I had the facilities to pull mine when I bought it if for nothing more than to inspect every nook and cranny and then repaint it properly. Now would also be a good time to replace the cutlass bearing and replace/improve your shaft seal. Also, the engine mounts/bolts may be compromised due to the water intrusion. Love the shop space.
__________________
John Novotny 1973 Tartan 30 #186 Baltimore, MD |
#18
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Rick, that blocks off the third bay. I've put it off, but I really need to install a set of steel walls to separate the heated space from the non-heated space. In the meantime, I've just hung those tarps as an air break.
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#19
IP: 173.30.41.140
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John, you are right on the spot. As she thaws out there there's some dripping around the cutlass bearing and the prop shaft. I'm not surprised by the shaft packing leaking, but it wouldn't be surprising if the cutlass bearing is shot too.
I'm concidering a dripless PSS seal as an upgrade over the stuffing box that's there now, so it would make sense to replace the cutlass. |
#20
IP: 71.178.87.110
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I know lots of people like the PSS seals, but I've got almost dripless with graphite (oops, I mean goretex, thanks tenders!) packing..it evaporates in the bilge almost as fast as it drips. It does run a bit hot during break-in, but after a while you can adjust it to just about zero maintenance.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 12-20-2017 at 09:01 AM. Reason: fixing up errors |
#21
IP: 173.30.41.140
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That's an option I'll have to look into. I lean heavily toward the "more is better" or "while in doubt build it stout", over the top solutions. That might make more initial work and cost for me, but nothing I've built ever fails easily. Maybe I should governor it back a bit.
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#22
IP: 72.69.36.126
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I have a "dripless" seal and the next time it has to be removed I'm replacing it with an old-fashioned stuffing box with newfangled packing (graphite or goretex or similar).
"Dripless" has never been dripless in my experience. Its failure mode is rare, but quick and catastrophic if it ever happens. Servicing requires removal of the coupling to the engine, a huge and inconvenient undertaking with my installation (V-drive). Mine has been installed since 1995 and removed twice, but I won't be reinstalling it if it has to come off again. |
The Following User Says Thank You to tenders For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (12-20-2017) |
#23
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Nice to know. I'm starting to see the logic in using the old with a touch of the new to cure problem that might have existed in the original designs.
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#24
IP: 72.194.216.156
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If you do pull the engine and rebuild it would be an excellent time to go to fresh water cooling if it is not the engine already.
TRUE GRIT |
#25
IP: 173.30.41.140
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Thanks John. I was heading that way and was looking for input on the subject. Living in FL, I didn't worry about freezing, but I did worry about silt and salt mucking things up on my old boats. Since I'm "getting my feet wet" again, and knowledge has progressed a lot on 20 years, I see why a FWC system just makes sense.
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