#1
IP: 75.157.247.99
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paint results poll
I'd really like to see a poll of how repainted engines have weathered the years. I'd like to know the exact process and brand names for de-rusting, degreasing, priming and painting. Mostly, I'd like to know how well it lasted, how long ago it was painted, and if there were touch-ups needed.
I just repainted my rebuilt A4, and I found information hard to get! For every three people I asked I got four opinions. I'd like to know actual results, as I may be repainting another A4 next winter. Thanks! Marty
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Marty 1967 Tartan 27 Bowen Island, BC |
#2
IP: 96.234.156.42
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Prep consisted of scraping and wire brush, then I shot it with Rustoleum High Temp Antique Copper spray can paint. My starter was sprayed with primer and it has held up really well. The rest of the engine was not primed. Area around the access plate has given up, so I retouch when I'm in the neighborhood. I need to re-seal it.
I'd recommend primer. Seems to really help seal the block and help paint adhere. Go figure... Overall it still looks good and I painted it about three years ago. |
#3
IP: 151.200.26.6
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Marty, I pulled as many parts as possible off the motor the first year I had the boat and (rebuilt, cleaned, etc.) primed & painted them in the garage. As Micah commented, and I will add to it, that it seems to be an uphill battle, always.
I did Rustoleum primer after sanding & wire brushing, and acetone, and most of that seems to be holding up well. My starter & carb & fuel pump & similar parts (taken off and painted at home) look great...the block/head/manifold is a constant battle, since those were done in the boat.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 11-13-2011 at 09:40 PM. |
#4
IP: 75.157.247.99
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bench vs boat
Yeah, it does seem that the painting done on the boat is never as good. So hard to really prep properly.
How long ago did you paint? Not really getting the answer I hoped for with this thread: I must have asked it poorly. I want to hear from someone who's paint job has lasted in good shape for many years....? And find out how they did it! Thanks, Marty
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Marty 1967 Tartan 27 Bowen Island, BC |
#5
IP: 216.115.121.240
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I did not use primer and I regret it!
I was cheap, and now I have to touch up the rusty spots with spray-on galvanizing to buy some time while I raise my daughter. Gray spots are better than rust spots. Live and learn, R
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Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#6
IP: 69.95.136.2
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I wish I could help you , but my paint job is less than a year old. I will offer this : After much work with solvents and degreasers , I positioned my A4 over a floor drain and scrubbed with good old hot water. That was a really effective final step to cleaning prior to priming.
(I suppose I just pasted a bullseye on my forehead for those who are on the extreme end of environmental sensitivity...)
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1966 Columbia 34 SABINA |
#7
IP: 148.170.241.1
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My paint job is only several months old.
I completely disassembled the entire engine - every last nut and bolt. I wire wheeled and chemically stripped all castings down to bare metal and then wiped everything down with solvent to get clean metal. I used PlastiKote high temperature engine paints, for both the primer and the final color. I applied at least two good coats of primer, applied several days apart, and at least two or three good coats of finish paint, applied several days apart. There are already a few small dings and chips here and there, from moving the engine around and hoisting it back into the boat. I am hoping it holds up a long time, because I do not cherish the idea of trying to get in there and re-paint it.
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- Bill T. - Richmond, VA Relentless pursuer of lost causes |
#8
IP: 98.248.12.160
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I have had good result in spot painting with the engine in the boat. I wire brush to get all the loose paint off, then brush on OSHPO which is a dilute solution of phosphoric acid which passivates the iron, turns it into a surface layer of phosphate of some sort. I let that dry overnight and the affected area turns black, then I bush on Rustolium red (in my case). I guess I would not do this passivation if I had the entire engine out of the boat but for spot painting it works well.
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#9
IP: 98.225.57.144
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Marty,
Sent you a PM. Mark
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Mark C30 "Kismet" |
#10
IP: 96.24.159.27
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My Painting Story
With the engine out of the boat and parts removed, such as exhaust manifold, water jacket plate etc, I wire brushed, removing loose paint, and roughing intact areas, acetoned, taped what had not originally been painted (labels, freeze plugs, etc) then sprayed rustoleum's high temp rust colored primer--and in some hot places like the exhaust, manifold, I primed with the hightemp primer available from MM. I spray painted it with the bronze paint from MM.
Did this 4 years ago and it still looks great. I especially liked the look where I primed with the MM-bought high temp primer--that area has a nice depth to it--as though coated with a glaze. Looks like brand new. It was worth it. Mary |
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