Ignition Switch Help

[sailingchance]

I am rewiring a new to me A4 to go with my new multi-gauge, tach and ignition switch. Idiot me has lost the diagram I made detailing how things were. I do have Don's wiring diagram, but there is something baffling me.

I had and still have an ignition switch. But there was also a push/pull interupter switch wired to the ignition and something else. I dont know what it could have been. All my pumps are mechanical. I have points starting.

At first, I thought, maybe lights for the old gauges? But then I was thinking it might be an interupter to coil to kill the engine.

My switch is three position, on/off/start, so that doesnt make sense to me either. It must be lights right? since the ign. switch kills the spark at the coil in the "off" position to kill the engine?

Thanks!

Jason

[hanleyclifford]

It is possible that switch was for the instrument lights. If the instruments are in a place where the light could affect night vision, the PO might have installed it so that he could see the instruments if desired but switch them off during night sailing. Just an idea.

[ndutton]

In the era most of our boats were built the instrument panel push-pull switch was commonly used for the exhaust blower.

[sailingchance]

In the era most of our boats were built the instrument panel push-pull switch was commonly used for the exhaust blower.

I thought that might be it. That being said, is there a way to wire my three position ignition switch to run the blower when it is turned to the "on" position? this would of course be before the "start" position. AND, if I did that, would the blower run the entire time the engine was running? If it does, i guess it's not the worst thing, right? (again, I am new to the A4 and gas engines in general)

Thanks!

Jason

[ndutton]

Let me put this delicately
NO!!!
Bilge blower protocol is to run it a minimum of [X] minutes prior to starting the engine. If it's wired to the IGN switch the coil is energized during that time as well without the engine running. This is a death sentence to a coil.

A four position switch with an accessory position could work. In my opinion though keyswitches have a limited life. I replace mine routinely every two years but this next time I'm going to change to a booted toggle switch for ignition and a booted pushbutton for the starter.

edit:
my gauge lights are wired to the running lights circuit (compass light too), no separate switch.

[romantic comedy]

I know that many Atomic owners run the blower all the time the engine is running. It helps remove the stinky blow by. I would wire the blower to a separate switch, no matter what you choice. But Neil is very correct!!

[Carl-T705]

I am rewiring a new to me A4 to go with my new multi-gauge, tach and ignition switch. Idiot me has lost the diagram I made detailing how things were. I do have Don's wiring diagram, but there is something baffling me.

I had and still have an ignition switch. But there was also a push/pull interupter switch wired to the ignition and something else. I dont know what it could have been. All my pumps are mechanical. I have points starting.

At first, I thought, maybe lights for the old gauges? But then I was thinking it might be an interupter to coil to kill the engine.

My switch is three position, on/off/start, so that doesnt make sense to me either. It must be lights right? since the ign. switch kills the spark at the coil in the "off" position to kill the engine?


Thanks!

Jason

When I read what you've written in the second paragraph it appears to me the blower would run with the key on and when you want to energize the ignition the push pull switch would perform this function. I mean if it is actually an ignition kill switch.
What are points starting?
The normal key switch is OFF ON START.

[sailingchance]

Let me put this delicately
NO!!!
Bilge blower protocol is to run it a minimum of [X] minutes prior to starting the engine. If it's wired to the IGN switch the coil is energized during that time as well without the engine running. This is a death sentence to a coil.

A four position switch with an accessory position could work. In my opinion though keyswitches have a limited life. I replace mine routinely every two years but this next time I'm going to change to a booted toggle switch for ignition and a booted pushbutton for the starter.

edit:
my gauge lights are wired to the running lights circuit (compass light too), no separate switch.

Thanks! Glad I asked before I wired it that way. I will run the blower off a separate switch. I think I'll copy your method of lighting the gauges too. It's one more thing "on" even if the engine isnt running, but it simplifies the wiring.

I've got it all wired up and turning over. But I can't get the damn thing to start now. lol. This darned thing has been nothing but trouble. Time to start reading some more. Thanks again for the advice and help.

[msauntry]

You sure that the push/pull is not the choke?

I'm running the four position start switch and really like it. Accessory position is for the blower, IGN is for gauges (also ACC is powered up so blower still runs). This is safe for the coil since you can run the blower on ACC without power to the IGN side.

Recommend a "bus" bar off the IGN for all your gauges, lights, etc. that you want on. Don't try to connect 5 different wires on one stud on the gauge.

The IGN bus powers your gauges, senders, coil, and alternator field. The ST goes to the starter. This can be a little confusing since there are a few ways to wire up the starter. Some people (me) leave the "R" terminal alone on the starter solenoid.

Ask questions and you'll find plenty of answers on this forum

[tenders]

My boat is (now) set up like msauntry's with a four-position switch and I like it. Turn key to ACC to run the blower and nothing else. When the key is in START or RUN the blower is also energized.

Forgoing a separate blower switch in the cockpit left room for a fuel gauge in its place on the instrument panel.

[sailbristol]

my switch

my switch gives the options all in one switch except start which is the small button ,there is also a keyed ignition switch inside the companionway which disconnects the whole thing so it provides security when away from the boat
ps those guages are 40 years old and still work fine even though they are exposed to all the weather.