#1
IP: 189.222.164.223
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Salt Crystals around freeze plugs
Couldn't find this on the forum, hope it's not a dupe.
I've had my boat/Atomic 4, RWC, for 5 years. In the past, while in San Diego, I have run the engine very little, just to leave the marina and get into SD Bay proper. A few years ago I noticed the formation of salt crystals, although never any actual water seepage, around the the freeze plugs in the exhaust manifold. The amount formed seems to be increasing. Maybe. I am in Ensenada now and plan to go cruising further south in late summer. The engine will start to get much more usage then and will also be more of a critical item (only tow service is run by some guy named Davy Jones). I am attempting to get the engine in top shape. I have no cooling problems and did the last acid flush perhaps 2 years ago. I have also just noticed some more salt forming along a short segment of the water jacket side plate. I had a mechanic at the last haulout, 2 years ago, tell me that salt build up at the plugs was normal and not to worry. But I'm a believer that worrying unnecessarily, along with duct tape, helps hold the universe together. I am thinking that I should pull both the exhaust manifold and water jacket, and look at either a cleanup/rebuild or replacement ($ouch$). Anybody have any thoughts or experience with this slow salt buildup? I have seen mention here of replacing the freeze plugs with 3/4 NPT plugs. Any thoughts on that? |
#2
IP: 98.101.210.6
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Yeah, I'm the guy who gets rid of the plugs and taps out for 3/4" NPT plugs, but your issue is a little different. You did not mention how old your engine is or whether or not it ever got resleeved. With salt showing as you describe I would not take that engine on a cruise without pulling the side cover for a look-see. The manifold can be pressure tested in place and be OKed for 20 psi, BUT you could still pop a plug enroute and be in deep doodoo. I recommend you pull the manifold for a real cleaning and fitting with 3/4" pipe plugs. The good news is that the parts department at Moyer Marine is only a phone call away, and that security has saved my tailfeathers more than once.
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#3
IP: 189.222.164.223
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The engine is original to the boat, I'm fairly sure, and this year will be her 30th birthday. She's a '72 Columbia 30. I have no details of previous maintenance efforts, unfortunately. There are stickers on the exhaust manifold from a Newport Beach, Ca. engine shop that went out of business long ago. Inspection, testing, and running quality shows, or at least implies heavily, that the engine has been well cared for.
Nonetheless, age is age. I guess I knew I would have to tear the manifold/jacket off and see what's inside. If I have to do so a jacket replacement cost isn't bad but I'm hoping that I can slide on the manifold replacement cost. Other than bucks I look forward to seeing what's inside. Thanks for plugging the idea of plugging the plug holes! Odds of freezing in the Pacific south of Juneau and north of the Horn are pretty slim. Besides, freeze plugs and I don't have a good history. And now, back to the preemptive carb rebuild that is in small pieces on the table before me. Even thought I understand the logic behind it, I dislike taking a well running machine apart. Thanks again. |
#4
IP: 98.101.210.6
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To do or not to do....
I too dislike taking a well running machine apart. A 1972 would be a late engine which is encouraging. If you have good access to the engine, and if you are handy and willing with tools, I would be inclined to go the "ready for action route". In this case that means having the gaskets and parts, and tools on board so that in the event, a repair can be made. In the case of the side jacket you would need to also have stud replacement kits or just new studs available together with appropriate washers and nuts. Don't forget the #2 Permatex. The manifold is a little more complicated but would involve having the tap, plugs and appropriate hole saw and drill available for the job. Unquestionably, the plug job is the more difficult and involved - far better to do it on a convenient work bench. Of the two I consider the "freeze" plug issue the more serious because if one comes out underway it is unlikely you could just bang a new one in the hole since it will be the casting landing that will have deteriorated, not the plug. FWIW
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#5
IP: 199.173.225.33
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Salt = water leak. This is not normal and I would get it fixed. My last engine leaked and seeped water from various places and it caused a lot of issues.
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#6
IP: 189.222.174.194
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Sorry for the delayed reply. Wifi here on the dock went out and I'm too lazy to go to the office.
It is a late model A4, reduction v drive and I have, at least from my point of view, excellent access. Re. the "ready for action" route. That was my original plan. But the more I stare at the salt the more I dislike it's existence. It is such an obvious failure point. I have rebuilt the carb, fuel pump, thermostat/housing, alternator and water pump already, so I will go ahead and pull the exhaust (and, if good enough, have the yard here tap and plug it. I don't have a 3/4 tap and don't see much other need for it.) and side jacket and get them ship shape as well. I will pull the exhaust apart and look for blockage, too, as it seems to me that I should get more speed/rpm at the high end. Then, I'll put on spares and call it good. I have some time as I won't head out until late summer. Muchas gracias! |
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