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  #1   IP: 23.240.212.74
Old 03-30-2019, 12:45 AM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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Broken stud and rusted bolts

So i've been progressing with my first engine tear down. It was badly rusted do i had a few broken studs and bolts but i managed to open it.
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  #2   IP: 23.240.212.74
Old 03-30-2019, 12:52 AM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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The engine is seized but the inside doesn't look to bad to my inexperienced eyes.
i have another block and pan and i was hoping to transplant the innards of this one.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:53 AM
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here are a few more pictures
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  #4   IP: 107.77.97.108
Old 03-31-2019, 05:28 PM
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lat 64 lat 64 is offline
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An often confusing issue over the years has been the numbering and orientation of the pistons and rods.
Note:
  • The timing gears are on the "front" of the engine. This is always the case even if the "front" is facing the stern of the boat. The Atomic Four has the reversing gear set is mounted on the "front".
  • Cylinder numbering always starts at the "front".
  • Numbers stamped on the connecting rods of Atomic Fours are stamped on the camshaft side of the engine.
  • Make a note of which way the arrows on the top of the pistons point BEFORE removing.
Your engine looks like it is still correctly assebled.

happy cleaning,

Russ
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Last edited by lat 64; 03-31-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:26 PM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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Thanks for the pointers, i'm still debating if i'm going to tackle this myself or bring it to someone to do it. Is it best to do the hot bath/shot cleaning and magna-flux in one place and the assembly in another or can one place do it all.
Do you have any suggestions in the So-Cal LA area.
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  #6   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 03-31-2019, 08:25 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Finding a machine shop can be scary. Kinda like picking a surgeon for heart surgery. My technique for my last overhaul was to ask my trusted automotive repair shop where they send their cylinder heads for work (unlikely they do their own). Such a shop can do valves and valves seats. Talk to the owner - he's not likely to be a college graduate, but he's likely to know his business and his machines. Ask him to show you his shop - is it clean and free of piles of 'stuff'? Pick a machine you don't recognize and ask him about it. Try to develop a relationship.
The shop I chose even installed carbide inserts for the exhaust seats - no extra charge. You'd have to ask them about their hot tank and magnaflux capability. Make sure to remove the cam bearings before you hot tank the block. Let the shop do the 3/4" NPT drill/tap on the transmission casing for the Kaminsky mod.
No idea what you'll find when you start measuring stuff. My experience with the A4 is that there's little to no block wear, no ridge at the top of the cylinders. Pistons get cleaned up and installed with new rings. A straight edge will tell you whether the block/head needs a skim cut. Bearing clearances? How was the oil pressure? If no issue, bearings may be fine.
Just for fun, take the old rings and put them into the cylinder one at a time and measure the end gaps. I found the lower oil rings severely worn - just going along for the ride.
Personally, I enjoy doing the disassembly, cleanup, reassembly work - find it therapeutic (kinda like building a wooden boat). YMMV.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:12 PM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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Thanks Al,
I'd love to try doing this work but to take on your analogy i just learned first aid care and this looks like heart surgery. I did do the tear down because of the rust and the bolts breaking to avoid paying someone to open it and tell me that it was a total loss. The history of the engine is unknown i just bought it for parts. I'll take your advice and try to find a good machine shop and see if i'm brave enough after that
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Old 04-01-2019, 12:29 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Do you have copy of the Moyer Manual?
It's worth its weight in gold.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:44 AM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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yes i do, i agree it's a very valuable resource. Without it i wouldn't have started.
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  #10   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 04-01-2019, 08:22 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Don't let someone else tell you the engine is a total loss - decide that yourself based on the results of the hot tank and mag flux for cracks. Some mechanics will look at an A4 and tell you that you need a diesel - and this is before they do any work on the A4. They're interested in the $$ to do the conversion. Please resist the diesel advocates.
Funny thing about my A4 - when I throttle back to idle, I have to look at my oil pressure gauge to make sure it's still running. Folks with diesels, they KNOW it's still running by the vibration.
Right now that block looks like hell. But it doesn't take much iron to make a lot of rust. Get it cleaned up - I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Stop the leaks and give it a coat of good primer, rust will no longer be an issue.
Primer I used last is the Interlux barrier coat. Smallest size is a gallon (white or gray), two part with an odd mix ratio (4:1 by volume?). Designed to have the whole thing mixed at once. But mixing smaller batches is tricky - I did it by weight. I went to the MSDS sheets to get the density of the two parts, and then calculated the weight ratio. As I recall, it was 6.3:1 resin to hardener.
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Old 04-02-2019, 02:16 AM
ubxf ubxf is offline
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Thanks Al will do. Do you know roughly what it would cost for the hot tank and Magnaflux of the block and head.
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