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  #1   IP: 38.118.52.41
Old 11-20-2005, 05:44 PM
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Question Sabre 28

I am considering buying a Sabre 28 sailboat that has the original Atomic 4 engine in it (the boat is a 1976 model). I am concerned about safety and the overall condition of the motor and I am not very mech. inclined!! Do you have any contacts on the West Coast (I live near the San Francisco/Oakland California area) that are "experts" in the area of Atomic 4's that I might contact to hire to inspect (and eventually "update") the engine should I decide to make an offer on the boat? I am concerned about just hiring "any old engine repair person."

Thanks so much for your reply/suggestions.
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  #2   IP: 38.118.52.41
Old 11-20-2005, 05:47 PM
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Don Moyer Don Moyer is offline
 
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Congratulations! The Sabre 28 is a wonderful boat.

As it happens, one of the most credible marine engine service facilities that I know of is in Sausalito (which I believe is in your area). The name of the business is List Marine services, and their number is (415) 332 5478. Meanwhile, here’s a check list of things we developed for folks to look for when buying an Atomic 4 powered boat:

1) It's obviously very important to check on the maintenance history of the engine, if one is available. The maintenance history, along with the ability to talk with the prior owner, can add insight to the findings of the following checks.

2) Check the exterior of the engine for signs of deep rust or scaling. Be especially critical of the alternator side of the block. In some cases, seals around water jacket side plates develop leaks, and given the limited access to that side of the engine on many boats, these leaks can go undetected for long periods of time, and deep scaling can result. In a few cases (fortunately very few), blocks have had to be scrapped due to this scaling extending all the way through the block and into the crankcase.

3) The engine should be started and brought to a normal operating temperature of 160 to 170 degrees for raw water cooled engines and approximately 180 to 190 degrees for fresh water cooled engines. It is best to run the engine in "forward" and under load. If you are checking the engine in the slip, it's OK to simply pull against the dock lines. Check for any unusual noises. Atomic 4s are known for running rather quietly and smoothly.

4) Check for fluid leaks. Be especially critical of any evidence of gasoline around the carburetor or fuel lines.

5) Check for normal oil pressure of 30 to 40 psi by around 1500 RPM, and 20 psi, or above at idle.

6) Run the engine for a short time at maximum power to check for any unusual sounds, excessive smoke out of the exhaust, or fumes from blow-by in the cabin.

7) In neutral, the engine should accelerate quickly as you flick the throttle from idle to full throttle without hesitation. It's important that you do not allow the engine to actually reach full RPM during this check. This is simply an acceleration check. The RPM never needs to go much above 2000.

8) Shut the engine down and check the compression as soon as you can remove the spark plugs without burning your fingers. The combustion chamber volume in the heads of in-service Atomic 4's vary considerably, and compression can therefore vary from as low as 85 psi to as high as 120 psi, with the average being around 100 psi. Compression readings should have a maximum spread within 5 or 10 psi.

9) While the spark plugs are removed, check for excessive carbon buildup or oiliness. Do not be too critical of a black velvet sootiness as long as the plugs are dry.

If you are buying a boat without the opportunity to actually run the engine, perform as many of the above checks as possible plus the following:

1) With the spark plugs removed, run the engine on the starter and check for oil pressure. Oil pressure at starter RPM will usually be around 20 psi.

2) Check the compression. With a cold engine, compression readings can be expected to vary much more than in a warm engine; and if the engine has not been run in quite a while, valves might be a bit sticky which will affect compression. These conditions are frequently not serious, and will clear up after the engine is started and given a Marvel Mystery Oil treatment (5 or 6 squirts of oil in each spark plug hole).

Regards,

Don Moyer
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