Need replacement solenoid fast!

[JonnyQuest]

My solenoid just died and wouldn't you know what the Harbor needs me to move my boat! Was planning on taking my time figuring this all out getting the parts ordering them in etc. etc. but now I have to get the replacement solenoid tonight and replace it so I can move the boat this weekend. Does anyone know a part number model number etc. for a replacement solenoid on a late-model Delco starter through Napa or any of the other local auto parts stores?

Thanks for the help.

JQ

[Mo]

JQ,
Take a pic of the starter and solenoid and go into NAPA....I think 72 chevs used the same starter so look at that. Don't ask me how I know that because I have no idea...I just seem to remember that for some reason. Good luck, you should be able to come up with one.

[Dave Neptune]

Numbers or hammer

JQ, the starter is pretty standard. Try taking it to a parts store or rebuilder and match it up. The starter may have a number on it or even the solenoid.

It may work just by having someone hold the key to start and give the starter a light wack with a hammer and block of wood. This often gets them loose if they stick.

Dave Neptune

[JonnyQuest]

Thanks for the quick replies Mo and Dave,

Napa was not far away so I took the starter and solenoid over to them, and they believe they have found a match and can have it in in the morning.

Dave, I did try whacking on the solenoid with a hammer while engaging the starter and got nowhere with that. It started out with the click click clicking of the solenoid but not engaging the starter. It appears to seized up in a closed position and is now creating a huge draw on my batteries when I get the starter button or short across the solenoid terminals. And since the same symptom occurs when jumping across the solenoid terminals, I am not expecting an issue in the starter system wiring. Ie-the feed to cockpit start button and the remote start button in the engine compartment.

FYI, the starter gear wheel spins freely so I'm not expecting starter problems.

Hopefully the first swing at this will be a homerun.

I'll post my progress as it develops.

Thanks again.

JQ

[Administrator]

Is the starter a rebuild or new? Ignition protected?

Bill

[JonnyQuest]

Hi Bill,

I do not know if bit is a replacement or rebuild, nor do I know if it is ignition protected. It's a delco and has a model no of 1107678 4C 13 stamped in the side.

I've had the body for four years now and have no knowledge of it bring replaced or rebuilt.

Any obvious indicators externally for ignition protection?

[edwardc]

Any obvious indicators externally for ignition protection?

All external openings will be closed off with either rubber plugs or fine-mesh screen.

[JonnyQuest]

Thanks for the extra info Ed. The starter has no external openings per se. One and is pulled into the engine at the flywheel, and the other on top is sealed with a rubber gasket between the attached solenoid and the starter housing. And the solenoid two is what appears to be completely enclosed unit. I think I read elsewhere that the rubber gasket between the solenoid and starter is what makes the starter solenoid an ignition protected device. Is that correct?

[edwardc]

It sounds right, although I'm thinking that you couldn't get a flame front to pass through the tiny opening provided by an un-gasketed solenoid anyway. The metal cools the hot gases down and extinguishes the flame. Its the same way our flame arrestors on the carb work.

[Administrator]

JQ:

From Don:

That Delco number would make it an original Delco starter from the 1970's which would not be ignition protected.

Bill

[ndutton]

Perhaps use the NAPA starter/solenoid (whichever you bought) as a temporary replacement to get the boat moved within the required time frame and then do it properly after the time crunch is over, important in terms of safety.

There's an awful lot more to ignition protection than outward appearances although as Ed mentioned, certain features can be indicators ~ or contra-indicators (e.g., spring clips holding the distributor cap). The testing protocol is crazy.

[JonnyQuest]

I'll do that-use the solenoid for a quick fix and then look forever to a proper ign protected rebuild. Probably due for that anyway, and there's a very good shop here that appreciates marine gas engine needs.

Solenoid is on and starter/solenoid bench tested as working again. Putting new coats of paint on them for good measure and the. Reinstall tomorrow morning for the move. Hopefully no more glitches with this repair. Stay tuned. :-)

[JonnyQuest]

And if the local guy isn't up for the task then I'll call you, Bill, about a replacement or rebuild. Thanks for confirming the status of the model number.

[hanleyclifford]

Your NAPA number is ST 124 - Pep Boys S100Z - Advance Auto Parts S100Z Note that Moyer Marine also stocks this item in the on line catalogue. You should always have a spare on board.

[JonnyQuest]

Gremlin Party on My Boat, all were invited!

Update: wasted time on solenoid replacement, same problem exists!
But got boat moved with my car battery. One problem solved at least.

So here's the history...


About three or four weeks ago (just prior to when TS Karen came loitering along the Gulf Coast) everything was hunky dory with my start system. When resetting after the storm that wasn't, hitting the starter gave a clicking solenoid but nothing else. Batteries (at first) appeared to be charged, so I assumed that the solenoid was kaput. After replacing it and still having the same problem, I needed to step back and tackle this methodically. Batteries may not have been properly charged after all.

Details:

Specific gravity tested good in three of the four 6v golf cart batteries (4x105s, 220 ah total). 4th one showed slightly below the green zone on sp gravity tester. Electrolyte levels good.

Resting voltage at 12.5v on bank one, and 10.5v on bank two. One of the gc batteries on bank two is showing low charge. Same one with lower sp gravity.

Hitting the start button immediately drops voltage from 12.5v to a fluctuating low voltage like 4v.

1. Charger does not seem to be charging the batteries--meter rests at 12.5v for bank one. Alternator too is not outputting charging voltage , though probably not related.

Latest attempts:

So I have this evening isolated the batteries from everything but the Xantrex Truecharge 2 charger and they are now showing a better charging voltage level of 14.x volts instead of 12.5 volts. Supports the theory that I have a short somewhere draining my batteries, which I am now isolated from.

Hoping that by tomorrow afternoon the batteries will have recovered enough to actuate the starter. Currently used my car battery hooked directly to the solenoid and started without issue.

2. If batteries recovered enough tomorrow, then attempt to start first by existing wiring and then by bypassing wiring with jumper cables. That would support my electrical short suspicions.

Then continue to try to find any short by tracing wiring back from the batteries.

3. If batteries not recovered then try a remote heavy duty charger to help out charging.

4. If batteries still not charging then take then to get tested and possibly replaced.

Must Resolve the battery issue first before tackling any possible shorts. Don't want one issue clouding/confusing other issues.

Stay tuned for more.

JQ