Tartan 34 exhaust replacement

[Guest]

I think it's time to do some preventive maintainance on my A4. I have recently noticed an intermittent ticking noise (presumably a valve sticking). Hence I plan to disassemble the port side of the engine and adjust clearances. Since I've owned the boat (>10 years) I haven't mustered up the courage to do that yet. While I'm there, I'll replace the exhaust system.

Has anyone done this before? How bad is the access to the valve cover plate on the T-34? I imagine I'll have to take off all the bits (intake manifold, carburetor, etc).

Any suggestions on this project and on sourcing parts for the exhaust system?

Thank you.

KaiS
T34-C #515

[bayareadave]

Exhaust replacement tips

T-30 Exhaust replacement:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885

Flexible Hot Section for Exhaust link:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1837

My tips:
1. RectorSeal T Plus 2. Teflon enriched pipe sealant. Great stuff for sealing tapered pipe seals after the water injection point.

2. Resin impregnated air-activated Tape (plumbing department). Great product. Wish I would have bought two $9 rolls. Last chance to repair my $140 Vetus waterlock inlet. Holding.

3. Blue-stripe wet exhaust hose. Very difficult to bend. If you are going to take on a project like this, you may want to order a few feet of that pricey silicon flex-hose for wet exhausts.

4. Moyer Marine stainless waterlift muffler: I wish I would have bought it instead of the Vetus.

Good background Info:

http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/Marine_exhaust.asp

[harvey]

I to own a Tartan 34C #107, and also have entered into the exhaust rebuild last year. Note this work is still in progress. My design requirements were that I wanted to remove the tall thru the cabin top, vapor and I think temp. exhaust, not the engine exhaust. I started with all new 1 1/4" galv. pipe, and a Moyer water lift muffler. This unit is located at the very base of this tall exhaust cabinet common with Tartan 34C. Not easy to locate. I exit manifold turn 90 degrees then again 90 degrees up about 22 inches then 180 degrees down about 12 inches then I tie in my water Moyer part, then flex exhaust to the water lift. From the water lift I go into the port cabinet and up as high as I can rise then I loop down to the existing port exhaust fitting.
My water loop also goes into this port cabinet as high as I can run it then add a anti siphone fitting then down to the injection fitting ( Moyer ).
I covered all my galv. pipe with high temp. rap two layers. and then sprayed same with high temp paint.
System runs fine except for this, the 1 1/4" galv. pipe gets real hot at all turns and as I said I have some 90s and at the top of the system I have a 180 degree turn.
I must say that as I said early on my design was to remove the thru the cabin top vent pipe and enlarge my nav. station. The problem is that this small area for the hot section exhaust now has no out side air flow in order to cool this chamber down, and the 180 degree fitting at the top of the hot section is to close to material that can charr. also this port electrical/nav cabinet. gets way to hot, so this season I need to change this system around a bit.

I may have to rebuild the thru the cabin top vent system and maybe add a continuous duty 250 cfm 10000 hour fan to add and remove engine heat.
This fan has a good safe spec. and conforms to all vapor and blow up coast guard requirements, however 11 amps, and the size this is a touch large.

Those of you that own Tartan34C understand the compartment size problems and also the leeking old stand exhaust pipe beast, that needs to be put out in the dumpster.

The Moyer parts work great so all you need is more room.
Good luck
Harvey
Tartan 34C # 107

[wlevin]

T-34 exhaust

I redid the exhaust on our T-34 and it was not a bad job. Just replaced the black pipe between the manifold and muffler (which cleaned up nicely for reuse.) I wrapped the hot section with as much insulation wrap as I could and put in a heat shield of thin aluminum suspended between the pipe and the inside of the plywood box that housed it. Nice and cool to the touch now.

As for access to the valve cover plate. We have 360 degree access around our engines in the T-34, and on the carb side I have cutouts in the port bulkhead, so with the batteries out the access to that side of the engine is exceptional. Yes, carb, manifold etc would have to be removed for best access. I plan on adjusting valves this in the spring.

Bill and Jeanne
T-34 #453
Otter

[bayareadave]

black pipe?

What is black pipe, exactly? Where do you get it?

[harvey]

Black pipe which is know as BI or black iron pipe, come as a sch. 40 or 80 grade,and even a 120 grade if you look hard .
Used for general plumbing where rusting may not be of a large concern. Most often seen in natural gas lines, old waste lines in both residential and comm, construction, never seen it for drinking water systems. As I remember BI pipe sch. 40 is some what stronger than Galvanized sch. 40 pipe, psi capacity that is, however this is of little concern on our A4, the rust factor is the big problem, this is why the choice is Galvanized pipe, not BI pipe.
Harvey R. Allen Tartan 34C #107

[longhorizon]

Glavanized pipe?

Is there any reason not to use galvanized threaded pipe for this project?
Thank you.

KSturmann

[ArtJ]

Tom Stevens solution

A number of years ago Tom Stevens of Indigo Electronics removed
his original exhaust stack added a type of water lift muffler and directed
the exhaust completely aft via a triangular covered area in the
quarter berth and out the transom. Suggest you contact Tom
for details.