Motor ticking noise

[Mharal]

Hi guys,

I have been doing some work on my motor because it was dying when I put it into gear going out of the slip, had to use the choke to keep it moving. I thought the issue was the transmission. In hindsight, I should have looked at the symptoms closer before diving in. So I adjusted the reversing gear one tooth clockwise, cranked it up,, but before putting it in gear I noticed the motor did not seem to be running well at idle and when I would give it some gas there was a delayed response while in neutral. hmm, so I am thinking now my tranny was not the issue. So I rebuild the carb with the kit from the Moyer, change the oil, then fire it up,, runs great, but seems like a ticking noise when the alternator kicks in. So I adjust the tranny back to the original position and am able to pull against the lines at the slip in forward and reverse. Then I see a small leak by the impeller gasket, so I change the impeller,, leak is worse, I see now the water is coming from the water pump. Install the water pump rebuild kit,, no leak. I also replace the alternator belt. I still have the ticking noise from time to time. I have attached a link which I hope works,,first time to create something on utube. to see if this noise is a serious issue or not. temp is fine,, getting good water flow.

https://youtu.be/FsUYzBj0e2w

what do you think?

thanks
Mark

[chiron]

Sounds like valves to me, and if you have one that is sticking it would cause loss of power.

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you suspect the alternator run the engine with no drive belt in place. If the ticking sounds like it is coming from the accessory drive you can push carefully on the pulley with a piece of wood and see if the noise changes.
That having been said it sure sounds like a lifter. You can try additives in the fuel and oil if you don't use them already. If it were me and I was quite sure it was a lifter\valve I'd take the plate off and expose the lifter gallery and see what was going on and check the lash adjustment while I was at it. You can also check for broken valve springs.

TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

My engine makes a ticking noise. It varies with RPM and alternator load. If I disconnect the alternator I can't hear it.
I have not yet got around to it, but I have a new accessory drive waiting to be installed. I am hoping that will fix it.

[hanleyclifford]

Check this out: http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/a...9&d=1232149802

[Mo]

I'm thinking broken valve spring...not a major. Worth taking off side plate and having a look.

[Mharal]

okay, i took the alternator belt off and cranked it up,, at first i did not hear any ticking, but after a few minutes I could hear it again. I am going to pull the side panel off and take a look. I will post some pics.

thanks
Mark

[Mharal]

Hi guys,

I took the side cover off and took a look but did not see anything that jumped out at me. I have attached some pics, hopefully ya'll can give me the thumbs up on the springs being okay. If the springs are okay, i plan on adjusting the valves while the side cover is off. I need to read up on that process in the moyer manual I purchased. I will also verify the valves are moving properly. Any other advice or items to ck at this point?

thx
Mark

[Al Schober]

Mark,
Looking at your photos, the only thing that jumps out at me is that your engine seems to be upside down.
Seriously, proceed with checking clearances and let us know how you make out.

[hanleyclifford]

Could be the picture or my eyesight but the exhaust spring on #4 looks a bit odd. When adjusting it try spinning the spring.

[pdecker]

Last month, I replaced the plugs, D-cap, rotor, and changed the oil before going on a long trip. Engine ran fine for over an hour, then then did a soft shutdown. I could restart it, but it would only run at high RPM, and then stall when putting it in gear. After getting towed home, I took apart the one year-old carburetor and found a spec of dirt in the idle jet. I cleared it, and now it runs fine, BUT NOW IT TICKS. I tried to upload a sound file, but there's no valid file type for audio attachments. Is it a sticky valve or lifter?

Phil
S/V Catmandu

[sastanley]

Originally Posted by Al Schober

Mark,
Looking at your photos, the only thing that jumps out at me is that your engine seems to be upside down.
Seriously, proceed with checking clearances and let us know how you make out.

Al, that is all the rage...all the new iProducts are flipping pictures all over the interwebs!

Steve Jobs must be laughing in his grave making all of us stand on our heads!

Originally Posted by pdecker

Last month, I replaced the plugs, D-cap, rotor, and changed the oil before going on a long trip. Engine ran fine for over an hour, then then did a soft shutdown. I could restart it, but it would only run at high RPM, and then stall when putting it in gear. After getting towed home, I took apart the one year-old carburetor and found a spec of dirt in the idle jet. I cleared it, and now it runs fine, BUT NOW IT TICKS. I tried to upload a sound file, but there's no valid file type for audio attachments. Is it a sticky valve or lifter?

Phil
S/V Catmandu

Phil, I had a similar issue this year...did you check to make sure the advance weights in the distributor were free? I had a sticky one and it would shut the motor down in the middle of the Bay after a couple hours...but at WOT it would continue to run.

[Mharal]

Okay, I adjusted the valves on Saturday, about half were a little tight. I have attached a link to the motor running after the valve adjustment. I still hear the ticking, but did not seem as loud.

so this is what I have done so far
adjusted reversing gear- thought the reversing gear was slipping, but real issue was the carb.
Rebuilt Carb with kit - fixed issue with motor stopping when engaging forward gear
Rebuilt water pump - was leaking
replaced impeller
adjusted valves- ticking noise



Next, I have the plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor and condenser. going to set the timing. I have never done that either, but I feel like I am getting better acquainted with the motor now.

https://youtu.be/OgYmBYI2bi4


thanks
Mark

[hanleyclifford]

Your engine sounds healthy. Oddly, valve clearances tend to tighten up rather than loosen which seems counter intuitive. As the valve seats and faces wear the valve stems actually move closer to the lifters. Timing is best set the same way you would do an automobile. You appear to have good access to the flywheel so all you need to do is get the engine to TDC (the crank roll pin will be vertical). Next use a protractor to make some marks on that nice flat late style flywheel housing cover. You can observe your initial and centrifugal advance easily under the strobe.

[Mharal]

Hi guys,

I finished up working on the motor. Today I replaced the plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor. condenser and points. Set the point gap per spec on the high point of the lobe. All ready to fire her up,,, will not start, get out my moyer manual and hook up the timing light. Loosen up the dist, turn the key on, move the distributor housing until the light fires. Tighten up the nut for the distributor. Time to fire it up again, cranks right up,, yea,, I let the engine warm up,, put in gear and elevate the rpm's. The engine dies,, hmmm.. take a look around,, forgot to turn the gas back on.. running again.. put back in gear, proceed to move the distributor housing to get the best rpm's.. tighten up the nut. All ready for winter I have attached a video,, its interesting to listen the first video and then the last one,, sounds much better. Thanks for all the help. I also have a question on the carb housing gasket,, but with post in the other area.

https://youtu.be/O76JpI2aDu4

thanks Mark

[pdecker]

Originally Posted by sastanley

Al, that is all the rage...all the new iProducts are flipping pictures all over the interwebs!

Steve Jobs must be laughing in his grave making all of us stand on our heads!



Phil, I had a similar issue this year...did you check to make sure the advance weights in the distributor were free? I had a sticky one and it would shut the motor down in the middle of the Bay after a couple hours...but at WOT it would continue to run.

I checked them last night, and here's a photo. The springs and weights appeared to be in good shape. I rotated the distributor shaft back and forth to make sure they operated. There was a little resistance, but they operated well. The ticking was only minor after I put it back together and started the engine. For good measure, I put another dose of MMO in the gas tank in the event there is a sticky valve.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Originally Posted by pdecker

There was a little resistance, but they operated well. The ticking was only minor after I put it back together and started the engine.

The weights need to move with no friction so the advance is controlled by the springs alone (plus the inertia of the weights). If there is friction in the movement of the weights the advance will be controlled in varying degrees by the friction of the weights moving against corrosion, up to a poorly running engine.
This is why I think twisting the rotor to check advance function is not such a hot idea. You'll always be strong enough to overcome any friction due to corrosion of the weights. A better idea is to let the springs loose and see if the weights move freely with no friction.(sort of like the weights are floating in a pool of oil)

TRUE GRIT

[nyiftos]

Originally Posted by hanleyclifford

Could be the picture or my eyesight but the exhaust spring on #4 looks a bit odd. When adjusting it try spinning the spring.

Yes, the last valve/spring in the last photo, seems a bit off.
Another issue with ticking noises especially if they are on/off, besides a sticky valve, may very well have to do with a so called floating valve, due mainly not necessarily a broken but a very weak spring tension. Hope this helps.