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Ok, I've started. I'll tackle the valve issues once the head is off. I'm glad to hear I can do it in the boat. And yes John, I may just take you up on that. Gas and crabs are a fair barter. Do you live in Baltimore? If so, what area? I'm in Towson and the boat's in Fells Point.
I PBB'd the bolts today and spun them all off. Two brought the studs along. I PBB'd them heavily again and left it sitting till tomorrow. I tapped on all of the studs (nuts on the ends) and then tried to tap a screwdriver in. No go. I didn't want to drive the screwdriver too agressively.
The photo below may be some indication of why I was overheating a bit. Holey moley... do I have to get a whole new thermostat kit now? They are kind of expensive and I'm working on fumes for dollars right now. I'd like to just clean up the housing and drop a new reasonably priced thermostat in for now. Later when the funds are better I can upgrade. (EDIT) I'm reading and answering my own questions. It appears that replacing just the thermostat I have now is about $80. It looks like I'm better off just biting the bullet and getting a kit.
Glad to learn that the engine is a little newer than I thought. However, I don't know why a 1968 boat would get a new motor just a few years later. Odd. Yes, the alternator is 120 amp and the manifold is newish. That's why the exhaust, at least the hot part, was so clean when I inspected it yesterday. Some attention has been paid to the exhaust in the not too distant past.
It's a good thing I'm doing this head job. When I got the alternator off I found that the clamp for the water hose from the pump to the center of the block had rusted off and was gone. That was a time bomb.
Lastly, is there a thermostat gasket from an auto parts shop that will work. I placed my order for head gaskets last night and called this morning at 8AM to add the gasket but was told it was too late. As soon as you click "Submit" for an order it's a done deal. I just wanted to save the duplicated shipping charges.
I PBB'd the bolts today and spun them all off. Two brought the studs along. I PBB'd them heavily again and left it sitting till tomorrow. I tapped on all of the studs (nuts on the ends) and then tried to tap a screwdriver in. No go. I didn't want to drive the screwdriver too agressively.
The photo below may be some indication of why I was overheating a bit. Holey moley... do I have to get a whole new thermostat kit now? They are kind of expensive and I'm working on fumes for dollars right now. I'd like to just clean up the housing and drop a new reasonably priced thermostat in for now. Later when the funds are better I can upgrade. (EDIT) I'm reading and answering my own questions. It appears that replacing just the thermostat I have now is about $80. It looks like I'm better off just biting the bullet and getting a kit.
Glad to learn that the engine is a little newer than I thought. However, I don't know why a 1968 boat would get a new motor just a few years later. Odd. Yes, the alternator is 120 amp and the manifold is newish. That's why the exhaust, at least the hot part, was so clean when I inspected it yesterday. Some attention has been paid to the exhaust in the not too distant past.
It's a good thing I'm doing this head job. When I got the alternator off I found that the clamp for the water hose from the pump to the center of the block had rusted off and was gone. That was a time bomb.
Lastly, is there a thermostat gasket from an auto parts shop that will work. I placed my order for head gaskets last night and called this morning at 8AM to add the gasket but was told it was too late. As soon as you click "Submit" for an order it's a done deal. I just wanted to save the duplicated shipping charges.
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