working toward FWC

[sastanley]

Taking a page from Tom & Neil, I've started preparing my A-4 for FWC. I don't have an HX yet, but while I had good access to the motor this winter/spring, I finally installed the oil filter kit, & shifting to cast cooling fittings wherever possible. I also added a raw water strainer & moved to 5/8" cooling hose throughout, except for that short run of the bypass between side plate & t-stat housing.

I also added studs in the side plate, moved to a 1/2"NPT in the side plate and copied Neil's idea and built & extended alternator bracket...thanks Neil!

The only issue when I finally got the motor fired up yesterday, was some leaks out of the side plate. If you look closely, you can see two drips on the studs flanking the alternator bracket.

I am guessing I need to add some thicker sealant to the stud threads, & maybe the gasket too. I used Permatex #3, but have a feeling it may be a little thin here...#2 in the tube might be a better idea.

Any other thoughts and tips & tricks to cut down the seepage?

Incidentally, the engine runs great! Especially after I could get it to fire long enough to 'power time' it. I had it off about 10 degrees maybe..poor girl was not happy at first! - My other great investment last week, a remote starter switch. I dunno why I waited so long to get one of those!

And here's a little teaser of some of the new electrical work. Nothing is tied up or put away..this was just to get the motor running & make sure the new primary circuit was functional...which it is.

[Al Schober]

If the side plate studs are in properly (JB Weld?) there will be no leakage around the threads. Putting sealant on the outer ends of the studs is a waste of time. As for the gasket, I like to use the blue silicone for water system stuff and would hit both sides of the gasket before putting on the side plate.

Al

[sastanley]

The JB Weld was pretty successful and they are rock solid. I never dared to put the torque on the bolts that I was able to put on the studs after the JB Weld cured up.

I picked up some Permatex #2..which is thicker and in the tube..I'll try again. ..not a show stopper for the current RWC'd setup, but still an annoying leak that would be a showstopper for FWC'd.

I cleaned up the JB Weld pretty well (using a rag) on the outside of the block, because I didn't want cured JB Weld on the outside to inhibit plate to block contact. Not a precision job by any means, but I am wondering if maybe the water is leaking down on the outside of the gasket, and then dripping out the thread.

My thick orange RTV job worked for 2.5 years before, so we'll get it eventually if we have to go to that. I also have "Hondabond" which Honda uses to seal their trannys & a few spots on the motor...with no gasket...I rebuilt a few Honda motors a while back and when the manual specified, I used it successfully....much stickier than the RTV crap you get at the hardware store.

[hanleyclifford]

The water jacket side plate is the one place I recommend the use of Permatex #2 throughout. That means the threads on the studs (block side) and both sides of the gasket, a thorough coverage which for me means a couple of messy fingers to get it right. During prep I finish the cleaning with a fresh single edge razor blade (I buy these in boxes of 100). Remember, antifreeze will escape where water will not (has something to do with specific gravity or molality or one of those chemistry thingys; Ed, help us out)

[ILikeRust]

I think what you're looking for is "surface tension" - also, potentially, "viscosity."

I dunno if I have been just lucky, or good, or what, but so far, I have zero leaks from anywhere on my rebuilt A4.

[sastanley]

OK, OK..Hanley, I know I am stalling...I'll get FWC installed in the boat someday!

[roadnsky]

Wow!
Talk about bumping a "thread"!

[sastanley]

By the way - the FWC is installed. - I've been using it a couple of weeks now, but wanted to do some testing prior to providing an update.

My buddy with dive gear helped me this weekend and scraped the props while I wiped the water lines of our respective boats..69°F ocean water temp.

So, now that I've run it a bit, the numbers are in.

Cruise around 2,000 reveals a rock solid 165°F with my $35 e-bay Sen-Dure 2T-15 HX & the Johnson electric pump. We'll see how it does when the sea temp warms up.

If I run it up to WOT (2,300 RPM) it stays at 165°F.

[thatch]

Shawn,
Congrat's on the FWC install. I'm pretty sure you'll sleep better now, I know I do.
Tom

[sastanley]

Tom, thanks..I'll admit I was apprehensive with the first run with the slightly smaller HX...but the price was too good to pass up.

Please notice the "Thatch manifold re-route".

Incidentally the only remaining machined fitting in the entire cooling circuit is that fitting at the end of the bypass entering the t-stat.

[Kelly]

Good job, Shawn. I'm sure the FWC will make your A4 extra-specially happy.

I remember some pretty rough "before" pictures in your threads. It looks like now we're more likely to see your photos on the pin-up thread. Keep up the good work and happy sailing!

[sailhog]

Nice work, Shawn! The engine compartment and the arrangement of everything in it is impressive....

[Jesse Delanoy]

Shawn, great looking engine compartment. I hope you'll let me take a look at it for real one day, when I get down around Solomon's again. You're getting 165 with FWC? Terrific!

[Bold Rascal]

Great looking install Shawn! youv'e really accomplished alot and it looks really great.

[hanleyclifford]

There is rejoicing in Afourania every time FWC happens.

[sastanley]

Thanks, all. I hope to get some updated pics soon. I've also replaced the engine harness over the winter and I am cleaning up some other areas of the engine compartment which I had cluttered with issues related to the ignition problems (back up coils mounted and such which I think are now solved...I am running a 1.82 ohm resistor and presently seeing 11.2 volts at the (+) stud of the internally resisted 3.3 ohm Pertronix coil.)

For now, I am still running straight water thru the fresh water side, as I am not quite satisfied with the Chesapeake Bay sludge eradication after a couple acid flushes & 1.5 gallons of vinegar over recent weeks...

So, as long as I see the black water in the strainer ahead of the pump, I'll keep running straight water this summer and purge & vinegar flush when I can. I have a quick connect for the electric pump which makes filling/purging of air a piece of cake with the engine off, using a simple jumper wire to my fancy engine harness junction block. I hope by mid-summer if I can get enough hours on the motor I can flush her out sufficiently to put real anti-freeze in the block soon...which I will obviously do before winterization.

Gonna try for St. Michaels (via San Domingo Creek) on the Eastern Shore this weekend.

[msauntry]

Shawn,
I'll be over in St. Michael's too on Sun/Mon. I'll keep an eye out for "Twice Around". If you see a couple on "Entropic" come on over for a drink!
-Micah

[Bold Rascal]

Allthough I can't understand why you'd ever want to leave Solomon's. What a great place!

Wer'e still in prep and provisioning mode for our bay cruising next month so wer'e stuck in our slip for at least another week. One more oil change, refinish "POLIGLOW" the cockpit, install new steamer light, another coat of CETOL on the mast spreaders, top off water and fuel, geeze is there no end to it?

Should be great weather on the bay for you this weekend. Lot's O sunshine, have fun!

Mike

[sastanley]

Whew...well, we made it there and back. Sorry Micah, did not see you.

We motored all the way from Solomons to San Domingo Creek on Friday...Ran the engine for 7(!!) hours at 2,000 RPM. She ran without a hitch at 165°F all day.

Today we motored out of Broad Creek (probably 1.5 hours) with no trouble. Then we sailed from the Choptank to Drum Point. Of course, it was on the nose then entire way. We started with full sail (155% genoa & main), and then went to a reefed main, and then dropped the 155% and put up the working jib (technically a #3, about 115%) and kept the reef in the main! ..By the end of the day, the breeze laid down a little bit we were able to shake out the reef and sail within a couple miles of Solomons, before finally motoring the last 30 minutes to our home berth.

The engine performed flawlessly all weekend. I might need to tighten up a few hose clamps, as I noticed I had just a few ounces of water in the bilge that may have leaked out of the HX. It was the HX or the fresh water tank..not sure which one yet.

P.S.> Came across another (much newer) Catalina 30 that was pounding down the Bay directly into the wind that had a diesel in it..running hard with no sails up in 14-19 knots!!! We were several miles ahead by the time we crossed their bow for the final time as we turned West into the Patuxent. I am all over my motor when I need it, but I own a sailboat.

[ndutton]

Good news on the electric FWC install and even better, looks like that ignition failure business is resolved.

You've done so much in a relatively short time (fuel tank replacement, electrics, shaft/stuffing box/shaft log, ignition and now FWC) that you're due for a well deserved season of reliable operation.

[sastanley]

Neil, thanks.

The seawater temp is getting into the high 70's/low 80's now here on the East coast. The engine ran about 5 degrees hotter this weekend than the first weekend I did some testing in early May.

I did notice that if I push her to WOT (2,300 RPM) for a few minutes, the temp creeps up to about 175°F. I wonder with summer around the corner, when sea water temps usually top out in the high 80's, if I'll see that elusive 180°F run temp that seems to be the sweet spot for FWC?

[ndutton]

I can't remember, are you running without a thermostat?

I know everybody strives for 180 but there's a certain comfort a little lower. I consider 180 a maximum rather than a goal.

[ILikeRust]

Last time I went out, mine was running right at 180. Seems to run between 165-180, depending on how long and how hard I'm running it. I figure that should meet my general standard for just about everything, which is "good enough!"

[sastanley]

Neil, yes..i am running with the aftermarket Moyer t-stat.

Bill, I find the same..at idle it is 140°F. At easy cruise it is 155°. At 2,000 RPM it is 165°. WOT it is now 175°..

So anyway..there are my numbers. I know Dave Neptune is gonna ask about vac numbers, but I don't have any..i should get some now while everything is clean.

[ILikeRust]

And of course, I can change the temp range based on how much I open or close the Moyer bypass ball-valve.