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After numerous repair and replacement of fuel pump etc. since unfreezing the engine this summer, I finally got the engine running well enough. Yesterday I warmed up the engine to do another oil change, because I suspect there is still some of the many fluids (other than oil!) in the crank case I poured in the spark plug holes to free her up.
All was well being in forward gear at idle until after about 15 minutes. Suddenly there was NO nuetral or reverse, although the sound of the engine and gear changed as typical. I was in forward in all positions. The smoke from the oil filler cap got worse than usual (has been smoking since getting it "unseized"). The smoke from the oil filler cap seams greater when above idle. Engine temp gauge read 140+ degrees while running in gear. I shut the engine down to cool it off and investigate.
To change the oil I inserted the drill-pump type oil remover, put the small O.D. plastic tube down the dip stick tube and couldn't get a flow. I pulled the tube out and it was melted!! Waited a bit, cut a clean tip on the tube and tried to insert, but the dip stick tube was obstructed with the melted plastic.
Summary: Despite the engine appearing to be running at 140, the reverse gear end of the engine was HOT. I estimate it would take 200 degrees PLUS to melt that tube. Turned the key to power the gauges and the temp read just under 150, despite the reverse gear area, by the dip stick, being much hotter.
Scanned reverse gear overheat and found no threads. How could the reverse gear heat up so much? Forward to neutral to Reverse was fine until this condition occurred. I apparently have good water flow intake and from the exhaust, and I'm pretty sure there's no water circuit in the reverse gear.
All was well being in forward gear at idle until after about 15 minutes. Suddenly there was NO nuetral or reverse, although the sound of the engine and gear changed as typical. I was in forward in all positions. The smoke from the oil filler cap got worse than usual (has been smoking since getting it "unseized"). The smoke from the oil filler cap seams greater when above idle. Engine temp gauge read 140+ degrees while running in gear. I shut the engine down to cool it off and investigate.
To change the oil I inserted the drill-pump type oil remover, put the small O.D. plastic tube down the dip stick tube and couldn't get a flow. I pulled the tube out and it was melted!! Waited a bit, cut a clean tip on the tube and tried to insert, but the dip stick tube was obstructed with the melted plastic.
Summary: Despite the engine appearing to be running at 140, the reverse gear end of the engine was HOT. I estimate it would take 200 degrees PLUS to melt that tube. Turned the key to power the gauges and the temp read just under 150, despite the reverse gear area, by the dip stick, being much hotter.
Scanned reverse gear overheat and found no threads. How could the reverse gear heat up so much? Forward to neutral to Reverse was fine until this condition occurred. I apparently have good water flow intake and from the exhaust, and I'm pretty sure there's no water circuit in the reverse gear.
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