#26
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Tom, see the last sentence in post #22
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#27
IP: 138.207.172.243
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Yeah, me too Neil.
Are you thinking what I'm thinking?
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Tom "Patina" 1977 Tartan 30 Repowered with MMI A-4 2008 |
#28
IP: 24.152.132.140
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No. It seems everybody has their own idea of marine exhaust design and what Alco has is just another permutation. I've posted S&S standpipe drawings in the past that show design revisions, the early model had a higher discharge (can't attach anything right now but the forum administration is working on it). In Alco's case, a high discharge may be necessary to achieve the down hill run to the transom, I just don't know. If he follows the drawings carefully he'll be good.
I noticed Tim's standpipe is the more conventional design.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#29
IP: 72.218.163.249
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I'm going to see how much of a drop from the top and bottom of the current standpipe there is. It may be only a top discharge will work with this boat which would point to a custom built stand pipe or switching to a water lift.
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#30
IP: 64.62.192.42
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Maybe a little late here, but the last page of the Ericson manual should be a drawing of the standpipe. You could take that to a machine shop and ask for an estimate to fabricate one out of iron pipe.
Water went in the bottom and filled the outer jacket, then mixed with the cooled exhaust at the exit pipe. Let's see... Everything above the exit pipe was wrapped in insulation, and that part also gradually rusts away. Last edited by toddster; 05-31-2018 at 09:49 PM. |
#31
IP: 137.200.0.106
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#32
IP: 72.218.163.249
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Yeah Todd, I have the same drawing only it says E27 on top. The original looks stainless yet you say make it out of black iron.
Joe, there was Nick at the corner garage of my youth who was all messed up mentally. Neighborhood lore had it that he had breathed too much exhaust from cars running in his closed garage in the winter. PS Todd, I take that back. There is one difference: the exhaust in pipe looks to be 5.5" longer on the E29
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA Last edited by alcodiesel; 06-01-2018 at 02:53 PM. |
#33
IP: 72.218.163.249
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Hello all,
I want to go with a standpipe system (riser in Ericsoneese) to replace/repair what I have now. The exhaust exit of the standpipe must be near or at the top to have a downward slope to the transom thru hull. Standpipes that exit at the bottom (Moyer, Tim's) won't work. (thank you again Tim) I temporally patched the leaky iron pipe (this thing has virtually no back pressure) so at least I can still get out for sails while getting ready to tackle this project. A young marina mate, Victor, does marine welding for a living. (good friend to have) He took a look and told me to give him the whole thing- iron pipe and standpipe and he'll test and repair the standpipe, if it needs it, and replace the iron pipe at his shop. He even offered to do the work on the boat. What takes me 10 minutes to hang down the lazerette to reach the stuff took him seconds. (Whew) Was I ever that nimble? Anyway that's where it stands now. PS I have a saws all now, hehehe PPS what ever happened to the original poster of this thread?
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#34
IP: 68.83.51.206
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Update
Hi all, I’m still here. I’ve been really busy so I still haven’t even been back to the boat to remove the exhaust pipe. Hopefully I’ll get out next weekend and be able to some work. I’ll post an update when I can.
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#35
IP: 74.214.58.121
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Exhaust leak located
Quote:
Quote:
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#36
IP: 172.95.97.58
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All of the fittings are just off the shelf plumbing. Be sure to use "black pipe" unless you just can't find it then use the galvanized.
Take a bit of time to design the fab. When I did mine the first time I changed a few lil directions and routed them in other places. This really opened up the area for other work and inspecting. Well worth the effort. Dave Neptune |
The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (06-26-2018) |
#37
IP: 71.178.82.180
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SoMD Terp, If you bring broken parts into Dyson's with a general idea of how they went together, they will do their best to help..they are one of the last 'old school' hardware stores in the area, but they do not know boats. They are always surprised when I come in and buy RV butyl tape for my boat, but they also have reasonable prices on West System Epoxy, so they sorta understand boats..just not old sail boats.
As Dave said, it is mostly 1-1/4" black iron pipe...the issue is that not every local store has every 45° or 90° elbow, a close nipple, 6" long pipe, etc., that you might need for your particular routing to mate up with the muffler. You will need to do a bit of fabrication and design on your own...Just keep careful tabs on the parts you buy and don't tear them up so you can return this piece and that piece that is 1/2" too long or short as you rebuild your system, and you might need to trek to a couple other hardware stores to find the piece you need. (Ace or True Value). I am in your immediate area (I work in Lexington Park)..send me a PM and we can talk if you need help. I have a day job and I am always busy, but I will happily make a run to meet you at the the hardware store at lunch, or at the boat after work, etc.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 06-26-2018 at 11:26 PM. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (07-29-2018), Dave Neptune (06-27-2018) |
#38
IP: 72.218.163.249
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I patched the holy pipe below the stand pipe on the E27 to get through a couple weeks when family was visiting and could take them out sailing which I did.
There must be nearly zero back pressure on this old Ericson system because cut up beer cans and muffler wrap patch stuff kept it from leaking gasses into the boat. That was all there was: Today I happily removed the flange bolts- they are stainless and came out without a fight. The pipes fell apart. A young fella, Victor, who does marine welding for a living helped me remove all parts of the system and he took it home to rebuild it out of iron pipe and pressure test the stand pipe. If he can find scraps he may substitute 316 SS for the iron. As long as it doesn't get too pricey- why not? I am glad the wind/weather is crappy here.
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#39
IP: 72.218.163.249
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Victor, the young fella helping me with the exhaust re-welded a small leak at the bottom of the riser. We could not get the flange off the pipe so I ordered a new one from our host. Should get it Monday. (nice being just down the coast from Moyer) Maybe then I can put it back together. It's been a week and a half since I sailed and miss it. At least the weather hasn't been all that great for sailing. But still there has been nice parts of days for short, few-hour sails.
I was going to do the Thatch modification but could not find the right plumbing parts here in Norfolk. I could not get the nipple off the rear of the manifold. Did some rewiring on the engine and stripped the varnish off some topside wood work then tung oiled; while not sailing. I will never varnish again.
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#40
IP: 72.218.163.249
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Did it! Got the new pipe and leak repaired riser installed last night. Shake down cruise was a clean sweep today. Geeze it's been 2 weeks since I've been out. Wasn't as sharp, but boy did it feel good. I kept sighing.
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Bill McLean '76 Ericson 27 :valhalla: Norfolk, VA |
#41
IP: 209.22.51.1
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we sailed (mostly motored) my newtome Morgan down from Chestertown to the potomac over the weekend. Other than a few minor mechanical issues, the coil died and i fouled the prop with a line hangine overboard, that little motor ran like a champ. The only issue was an exhaust leak that got progressively worse over the three days. We had decent weather dispite only having good wind for part of one day so we were able to stay on deck and make the journey safely.
Anyway, i was looking for answers and now it sounds like i should pull the insulation off the pipes and see what i have. Thanks and i will update with my progress |
#42
IP: 174.204.22.9
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Exhaust update
So I finally had time to get the proper hardware and install it. Not the prettiest job, but got it all together and the engine ran with no issues. However, I am still getting a leak. It seems to be less than it was before and smelled a little more like something was burning. I think I’ll do what someone mentioned earlier and drop some MMO in the carb and see if that helps
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#43
IP: 71.222.3.150
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Quote:
That heat wrap will take a few hours to "burn in" and will have a burning smell to it. Keep the cabin well ventilated until it sets. NOTE: IF you didn't wrap the pipe, that could possibly account for a small leak.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#44
IP: 138.207.175.58
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Another situation where a handheld IR thermometer might be helpful?
Bill |
#45
IP: 99.30.185.198
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The other half of the system
SoMd Terp, Way back in the first post of this thread you mentioned that you have a Catalina 30. About three years ago I replaced the 20 odd feet of the soft section of my C-30s exhaust and was amazed at it's horribly "leaky" condition. It's run goes from the water-lift, behind the stove, up to the gunnel area, through a check valve and around to the stern. There are a couple of "pinch" areas that makes pulling in the new hose a challenge. I wound up removing the stove temporarily and cutting an 8" round access port to make things easier. If yours has not been replaced, I would suspect that at least part of your exhaust leak is from that hose. Hope this helps.
Tom |
The Following User Says Thank You to thatch For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (08-29-2018) |
#46
IP: 138.162.0.42
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Continue to look
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#47
IP: 137.200.32.54
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Galvanized pipe gives off poisonous fumes from the zinc when heated. You can actually get sick with a flue like illness from this called "metal fever" for obvious reasons
You need to run the boat with all hatches open and keep yourself out of the fumes until it burns off. I would be tempted to do this job over with black iron. |
#48
IP: 71.178.88.75
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SoMD Terp. As always, give me a shout via PM. I am busy the next month or so, but it is too hot to work on boats right now anyway. I have done the work thatch mentioned of replacing all the soft hose..really not too bad but, you need two people. It was a one afternoon job.
P.S.> I have had to resort to galvanized pipe in these parts too...just heed the off gassing warnings from other forumites. Holler when you want some help.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 08-29-2018 at 10:36 PM. |
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