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#1
IP: 104.13.213.227
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Cooling side cover plate?
I opened up the side of the engine to inspect the cooling passages. I am happy that there is very little rust, but the bolts came out with a lot of resistance and 2 of them snapped off. With the cover off I could feel that the 2 broken bolts extended into the water jacket by a small amount and that area of the bolts were badly rusted. All of the removed bolts showed rust on the ends. I drilled out the broken bolts and cleaned up all of the threads. I have a set of new grade 8 bolts to put in. My questions are #1 what should I do (if anything) to the ends of the bolts that will extend a little into the water jacket? #2, what would be a good sealent that might also give a little corrosion protection to the bolts? I can just slop them up with non-hardening Permatex or paint the bolts with Rustolium primer and then Permatex? or any other suggestion? _____Grant.
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#2
IP: 72.194.219.196
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I use TFE paste on the side plate and gasket.
I use TFE paste on all water threads, barbs, and gaskets. It helps the seal and makes disassembly the next time easier. TRUE GRIT |
#3
IP: 71.208.62.184
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I would use SS bolts. No need for grade 8, It is only a cover and it just needs to be tight.
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#4
IP: 172.95.97.58
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Grade 8 is a good choice as it is a more similar metal than SS. Goop them up with Aviation grade Permatex and it will last many more years than the std bolts did uncoated. The harder grd 8 will resist rusting quite well.
Dave Neptune |
#5
IP: 100.36.65.17
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or switch to studs and never worry about it again.
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
The Following User Says Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
ndutton (10-11-2018) |
#6
IP: 32.211.28.40
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STRONGLY recommend that you change to studs and nuts for this connection.
Studs should be non-corrosive: stainless is good. The Moyer kit for this job uses stainless studs. Some have done it with stainless set screws from McMaster. Did mine with brass all-thread from HD. Depends on whether you're raw water cooled (use stainless) or have a heat exchanger and glycol (brass is fine). Install studs with permanent sealant - I used JB-Weld, on the stud and in the hole. The holes in the block should be chased with a tap and cleaned with solvent before stud installation. Once the studs are installed, clean up any excess sealant then install the cover plate and gasket - I like to use the blue silicone sealant in this location. Nuts and washer of your choice - stainless looks good. No more leaks. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Al Schober For This Useful Post: | ||
joe_db (10-11-2018) |
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