Head Removal Tool

[Hughes35]

I've got a couple sticky valves in my A4, so I decided to pull the engine apart and do a little clean up work. The head is stuck on pretty well so I was looking around for a "tool" to help pull the head. I searched the form and could not find anything on a "Head Removal Tool"... Does anyone have one?

If not, my plan to make one is to get a 1/4 inch steel plate that will lay on top of the head bolt studs. Drill four holes into the steel plate that line up with the spark plug holes. Install four threaded studs into the spark plug holes that protrude up through the steel plate. Using nuts with washers, tighten the plate down against the head studs which will, at the same time, lift the head. Of course I'll tighten the nuts with washers against the steel plate while preventing the studs from rotating, to protect the spark plug threads. I'm expecting to be able to develop about 2 tons of lifting force at each plug to separate the head from the block.

I don't wish to "reinvent the wheel" so if anyone has already looked at a tool for separating the head from the block, please chime in; also any comments are appreciated before I break something.

[thatch]

No X's 4

Pulling on the spark plug holes is definately a bad idea. The prescribed method used by most A4 repairers is to pry around the gasket line using narrowley tapered wedges of some type and systematically lifting it gradually.
Tom

[Dave Neptune]

Head removal tool

Hughes35, I have used a wide (4") thick putty knife for doing head removals for years. I actually have one that is dedicated to that task in my tool arsenal.

Just insert at the gasket, keep the blade paralell to the head and block and then gently tap. You may need to work it into a few accessable spots before the whole thing lets go. Keeping the blade paralell keeps the blade from gouging the head or block. This can also be accomplished with a screw driver but you may leave marks and gouges to be delt with.

Dave Neptune

[Qben]

Probably goes without saying, but be careful on the manifold side. If you push anything too far in there, you could easily hit any open valves.

Your head removal tool sounds interesting in concept, and it seems like pulling on that area wouldn't risk breaking anything since it is the strongest part of the head over the combustion chambers. However, not all of the head studs are going to be at exactly the same level and I think you would run a very real risk of applying uneven force and tweaking the head (even if they were all even). You are supposed to torque it down in three stages for a reason.

There is something to be said for "tried and true."

Qben Oliver

[lat 64]

Whisky-Delta Four-Zero

I think the stuckness is from the studs. There is a close clearance here, and little rust and goo sets up between the studs and the stud hole. The guys are right, Don't use lots of force. you should worry at it like a puppy with a big bone.
Soak it with your favorite penetrating oil. I use WD40 for everything. Just tap(not beat) a little here and there on non critical surfaces to loosen the rust a little, and pry with the putty knife. Polish off the sharp edges on the putty knife first. The cast iron is soft and you can gouge it easily.

The head will still be stuck on the studs even when its up off the block. Just take it slow and slide it up off the studs.
This is where we prove to the wife how patient we've become at our age.

Finesse,
Russ

[Baltimore Sailor]

For my head removal job I made wedges out of scrap 2x4 with very shallow angles -- maybe 15 deg or so. Get the head started with the putty knife and as soon as you have an opening put a wedge in there and tap gently with a hammer to separate the head from the block.

Make several and work them in around the head, and you can gently lift it without worrying about scratching the metal.

Good luck!

[tenders]

> I use WD40 for everything.

Nectar of the goWDs. Also useful as a fire accelerant, poison ivy treatment, and emergency deodorant. Tastes terrible however.

[ndutton]

Wd-40

And the best diesel starting fluid I've ever seen!

[marthur]

ndutton,

The propellant in WD40 used to be propane. I read that it isn't propane anymore. So I am curious about whether it is still a good starting fluid. Have you used it lately?

Mike

[ndutton]

Nope, it was many years ago and now I'm a gas guy, as are all of us here. No current info from me on this one.

[Hughes35]

Head Removal Tool

Thanks for all the input... I've decided to go ahead and fabricate the Head Removal Tool since it's pretty simple (what can I say, I'm an engineer and it's in my nature to take another path).

I've got the steel plate ready with 4 holes drilled in it that line up with the spark plug holes. I had trouble finding bolts with the correct thread, so I ended up purchasing 5 each 5/8 x 3" bolts (with full thread - 1 extra for a spare). I'll turn down the last 1/2 inch of the bolts then re-threading using a 14mm x 1.25 die. Since the studs are different heights I was planning to back the nuts off until they mate against the underside of the plate; effectively making all the studs the same height. The tool should easily generate 20,000 lbs of force at 24 ft-lbs, and it should also pull evenly and straight up.

Of course, following "normal procedures", I've already started the liquid wrench soak, and I intend to use wedges once I have the tool installed and generating significant lifting force. If it works I'll post some pictures... if not I'll just report on the experience.

[lat 64]

not force

Just remember your wedding night. and all the lessons learned since then. Finesse is the word, Ten tons of pull will ruin the best relationship.
Tap,tap, nuge, nudge. Gentlemen get served coffee in bed.

[hanleyclifford]

Sounds like life is good on the frontier.

[marthur]

Let us know how the head removal tool works and take a few pictures. I am sure that a number of us are following the thread with interest.

Mike

[Hughes35]

Head Removal Tool - results

I've attached a couple pictures... the phone camera is old and the lens is a bit scratched (life aboard the boat), so they are not real clear. It works OK; as I put load lifting the head, one corner came up within a few minutes. I had several days of penetrating oil soak and did some tapping with a putty knife as I torqued each bolt just a little at a time. After the initial lift the head got stuck pretty hard... the studs around the thermostat would not budge. I used wedges to work my way down to that corner, took my time, lifting and bolting back down repeatedly. Anyway the head is off.