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  #51   IP: 165.225.38.128
Old 11-12-2019, 03:11 PM
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And so a few questions (new and pending answers):

Question 1: I removed the oil sump, without removing the reversing gear housing, just loosening the lower 3 bolts on the rear flange. Am I now obligated to remove the large nut at the back to change the round rear flange gasket?

Question 2: If the question 1 answer is yes, while I am doing so, is it a lot of work to change the rear thrust bearing and the rear oil seal, and can it be done without removing the reversing gear ?

Question 3: in the previous post with pictures taken after removing the head, are these block damages? or typical and normal?

Question 4: see my distributor question above. Is that a bad decision?

Question 5: question on corrosion in previous post

Thank you for your help!!!
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:03 PM
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Question #2 - I changed the rear main seal and thrust bearing without removing the reversing gear. There is an excellent Tech Tip video on this topic available from our host.
https://moyermarine.com/product/vide...s_clip_01_568/

The link is to the Windows version - there is a Mac version available as well.

And lots more video resources if you browse the online catalog a bit.

Peter
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter View Post
Question #2 - I changed the rear main seal and thrust bearing without removing the reversing gear. There is an excellent Tech Tip video on this topic available from our host.
https://moyermarine.com/product/vide...s_clip_01_568/

The link is to the Windows version - there is a Mac version available as well.

And lots more video resources if you browse the online catalog a bit.

Peter
OK I downloaded all videos... that answers question 2. I will try to do so without the expensive tools, likely building them if needed. thank you !
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:40 PM
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Winter is coming... so it gets colder in the garage. Harder to find motivation...

- Yesterday I tried to tackle the 3 broken bolts (2 on oil pan, one on the coil bracket). I was able to make 3 nice drills, without touching the threads... on broke 2 Easy-outs. These things are useless. Anyway, I will be back on them with a torch for heating and a welder. I hate those things...
- same failure with the large rear bolt on the shaft. I have the video from MM, and tried a very large spanner, impact gun, with no luck. I think that bolt is going to get cut with the Dremmel tonight, unless somebody has a better idea.

- Water pump: disassembled the Oberdorfer water pump, and realized once the shaft was out that the greasing cup would in fact not push any grease to that shaft... I remove the small fitting (the one the cup screws on), that seems to be a kind of check-valve? It is hard to see what is exactly inside that fitting, and I could not find a way to disassemble that small element.
Question for you guys: Any idea of what is inside that fitting? Any replacement available? (not on MM)
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Old 11-18-2019, 04:42 PM
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I carefully take the shaft and impeller out every year for winter layup. I grease it for spring reassembly. About a dozen years ago I noticed the same problem that he cup was not squeezing in grease with a 1/2 turn. I took the cup and fitting off - remembered it looked like a small spring loaded check valve. I cleaned it well & let it soak for a bit in some degreaser/carb cleaner. Has worked well since, don't think you may need a new one.
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  #56   IP: 108.34.135.205
Old 11-21-2019, 11:45 PM
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I am against torture.... but when somebody refuses to collaborate, at one point violence may be necessary!!!
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Old 11-22-2019, 10:20 PM
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We have found an impact wrench makes pretty quick work of the coupler nut. Did you try that?
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Old 11-22-2019, 10:42 PM
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We have found an impact wrench makes pretty quick work of the coupler nut. Did you try that?
I saw that in the previous thread, but did not work. But my impact gun is only an electrical one, not a pneumatic one, so less torque. Anyway, after 2 Dremel cuts. It gave up.
Now the Sleeve does not want to come out neither. So extractor tomorrow
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:28 PM
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So without an extractor of some kind there was no way it would ever go out .... as said by the Boss mr Don, it is not less than a “soft fit”, so I will be able to re-use it
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Old 11-24-2019, 06:45 PM
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Educating the youngest generation to the basics of thermodynamics... testing the thermostat
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Old 11-25-2019, 12:02 PM
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Thumbs up

One of those shops.... you enter and you know you came to the right place !! Hundreds of starters and alternators, dead or alive, from floor to ceiling, and that mixed delicious smell of burnt Bakelite, cleaning oil and fresh grease.
Paid 215$ including tax for overhaul of both alternator and starter (plus replacement of couple broken connections, missing small parts etc... 2 weeks. ACE armature Pawtucket RI. I recommend
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Last edited by Surcouf; 11-25-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 11-25-2019, 04:04 PM
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Who remembers that old post about the old dog lying on the floor, or something like that? Maybe Shawn?

Bill

ps: Yeah, I read every single one....
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Old 11-25-2019, 07:56 PM
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Did the shop mention preserving the ignition proof features? Any mention of SAE J1171 standard? Marine shops are keenly aware but general automotive shops usually aren't.
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others

Last edited by ndutton; 11-30-2019 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 11-30-2019, 01:01 PM
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Who remembers that old post about the old dog lying on the floor, or something like that? Maybe Shawn?
It was Russ way back in '09... here


"Here's how to spot a good shop:
You have to go to the bad part of town(industrial that is)
They don't always advertise, you need a referral. First go to a tractor, trucking or marine shop; or a smoky bar to get this.
The front door is hard to find.
If there is a pit bull at the door, try another shop.
The place will be dark and no one will be at the counter. This is ok.—they are working. you'll hear hissing and other noises of bench-top industry. There is a bell somewhere—look around for it. Don't use the bell, it's rude.
Yell "helloooooo". This will bring an old blind black Labrador retriever to the front. This is ok. you will now be served.
Give them your phone number, it's all they need(no cell, you don't want to look like a spender)
Talk mostly about the weather and casually mention it's for OLD boat that you are helping to fix up. Beyond that be honest. Admit you don't know much but heard they were a good shop. Absolutely NO politics!
No, you are NOT in a hurry.
No, they do NOT have a web site–ask for their business card. The card will be old and greasy. Don't worry you can wash up later.
You must learn how to say " have a good one" in the local dialect, and tell them you have to get back to your lame job.
This is a good time to ask for their referral to a good lunch cafe.
Get lost so they can get back to work. You have been talking to the actual person that will do the work.
Watch your step as you leave. The lab is blind remember, and he doesn't go far from the door."
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  #65   IP: 174.242.145.157
Old 11-30-2019, 04:00 PM
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Today 02:59 PMSurcouf
So I just had them rebuilt the alternator without checking if they knew about the explosion proof or not. I will have to ask them. Thank you!!!

I agree 100% on the ‘09 shop description!!!
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Old 11-30-2019, 04:04 PM
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Today it is Christmas!!!

Thank you Ken!!!
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:22 AM
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So after a stall due to low temperatures in New England, , progress comes in baby steps...
- head dropped at the machine shop. Here too, you know you are at the right place when your eyes can’t count all heads, blocks, shaft etc... stored everywhere. And when you get to the counter and the shop owner looks at the head from 20 feet away and states before we even say hello... «* so an Atomic 4, rust I guess?”. Ok now we are talking!
- after receiving my toy box from MM a week ago or so, I was finally able to try to remove the valves (first time, I am a valve-virgin). So the 4 intakes valves came out perfectly: moderate pressure, a nice “pop” and done. But the exhaust valves... I was able to get one finally, but not been able to get the last 3: when I try to really apply a lot of pressure, clamp slides on the valve, the “fork” slides on the spring retainer. The whole clamp starts to strain. So question to those who went there: any trick / advice / method / better tool (mine is the MM one) to pop out reluctant exhaust valves collet-retainers? ((Just to be clear: valves go up and down perfectly when shaft is turned. But the collets just do not want to pop, for me, for now...
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:16 PM
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This is a new one to me! So you're saying you apply the spring compressor to the exhaust valve spring, compress it down, exposing the 2-piece retainer, and those retainer pieces are frozen onto the valve shaft?
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Old 12-10-2019, 07:33 PM
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This is a new one to me! So you're saying you apply the spring compressor to the exhaust valve spring, compress it down, exposing the 2-piece retainer, and those retainer pieces are frozen onto the valve shaft?
Not exactly: I install the compression tool one side on the bottom of the valve (obviously), the other side (the «*fork*») on top of the valve retaining washer, and I start to compress the tool. At that moment the spring is not compressing, because I am only applying a compression effort on 2 fixed points of the valve. It is the valve washer and the keepers that are being stuck on the valve stem.

I have found quite some discussions around the same issue on engines with*»*» over head «*«* valves such as Mustang etc... but it is much easier to break the salt/crust/corrosion because of the superior access in those.

I generously spread PB Blaster yesterday night, and will see tonight if situation is improved. But I welcome any other trick ....
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Old 12-10-2019, 08:44 PM
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This post from Don Moyer on 5.27.17 may be of help:

"Over the years, varnish in the oil will occasionally "glue" the valve keepers inside the retaining washer and be quite difficult to remove them in worst cases, but you should not have to use heat. All I've ever had to do is pry the retaining washer up using a really big screwdriver (or some other pry bar) using the bottom of the valve chamber opening as a fulcrum while tapping the valve down from on top with a medium sized mallet. Once the keepers come free of the retaining washer they will fall out. Don"
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:43 PM
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This post from Don Moyer on 5.27.17 may be of help:

"Over the years, varnish in the oil will occasionally "glue" the valve keepers inside the retaining washer and be quite difficult to remove them in worst cases, but you should not have to use heat. All I've ever had to do is pry the retaining washer up using a really big screwdriver (or some other pry bar) using the bottom of the valve chamber opening as a fulcrum while tapping the valve down from on top with a medium sized mallet. Once the keepers come free of the retaining washer they will fall out. Don"
That is actually pretty smart!! Thank you very much, I will be trying that very soon and report!!
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:14 AM
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So with the appropriate technique, it is so much easier. Why can’t I find that in my own??

So as recommended by Don, I inserted whatever was of the appropriate size between casing and washer, pushing the valve up a few mm. 2-3 small hits on the valve with a small hammer and «*dong*», keepers are released!! 30 minutes sweating + swearing yesterday with no result.... in 5 minutes today they were all in their makeshift box.

Thank you jcwright for the perfect quote from Don!!!

And because a picture is worse many words...
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:19 AM
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Unhappy

And so now onto the next challenge... I have 2 bolts holding the flywheel cover that had just disappeared into rust. I need to remove these to change the flywheel cover gasket that was damaged when I removed the oil pan.
This is the result after working with hammers, chisels, screwdrivers during a good hour..

There is no way these 2 come out easily... what is your advice here? Straight to the Angle grinder here?
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:41 AM
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Yeah, I had a similar situation with some blobs of metal that had once resembled bolt heads. Grind off the heads, remove the cover, and hope there's enough exposed bolt shank to attach the stud extractor to. Worked for me.
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:48 AM
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So with the appropriate technique, it is so much easier. Why can’t I find that in my own??
..
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