#1
IP: 97.32.65.199
|
|||
|
|||
Early atomic 4
I'm rebuilding an older a4 out of a 64 Pearson (26') and I had a couple of questions. First question is, how do I determine the exact year? I know it's close to the original year but the engine was rebuilt recently... well not recently, but there's very low hours at most. I was wondering if anyone had an original cooling line that goes between the head and manifold? You know the pretty cast iron one, the catalog is a little confusing it shows some ugly radiator hose in the same picture. I figured it would be in the original castings section. If not, has anyone ever tried driving a copper tube through and flaring the ends against the flanges? Does anyone know where to find an alternator that will mount on the head and maybe a little smaller and longer? The alternator on it now is short and fat and is higher than the head. Lastly, does the original distributor that's for sale, have the ignition retard switch on it.
|
#2
IP: 184.3.230.68
|
||||
|
||||
The casting date of the block can be found on the side, behind the carb.
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#3
IP: 172.222.238.142
|
|||
|
|||
Ken,first welcome to the MMI Afourian Forum.
Many parts are available from MMI and a lot of members have a few for sale too. No retard switch in the Prestolite that I know of. That alternator and bracket are after market or PO cobbled. Dave Neptune |
#4
IP: 184.166.78.231
|
||||
|
||||
Welcome to the forum, Ken.
That's an old engine - notable for the cast valve cover, lack of oil fill, and carburetor - I can't date it from those features, but I'll bet someone here can. The piece you're asking about is called the 'Crossover Fitting'. MMI has a replacement kit here, but not the original casting. You can find them on ebay from time to time. http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/s...key=CSOT_04_73 As to alternator fit, you might try measuring the horizontal distance from the center of the head mounting ears to the bulkhead wall, and then giving Ken at the parts department a call. He will surely walk you through the options!
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#5
IP: 166.216.157.125
|
||||
|
||||
I Love (not) the stove bolt for the alt. pivot.
Remember to get an ignition-protected alternator when you replace that unit, that is, a marine alternator. Yes I know it cost more. This is a safety issue. Review all the electrics with that in mind. No kaboom, no bad days. Welcome to the forum. Great start. Russ
__________________
Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#6
IP: 97.32.68.217
|
|||
|
|||
The number behind the carb is 11-3. the number on the opposite side is 72770.
|
#7
IP: 97.32.68.217
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the wecomes everyone. I'm going to be honest, I prefer small day sailors with no engines so this engine is pry getting sold or made into a show piece. It's going in a 58 evinrude. I think I can increase torque by shortening the drive shaft and of course dropping the weight by several thousand pounds. So my point of this is the engine will be wide open(ill be able to smell gas) or sold to someone who has an alternator already. I was more looking for original equipment, unless it's six volt. I may just pull it off to one side and mount it to the boat, might even need two.
|
#8
IP: 137.200.0.109
|
||||
|
||||
I don't think I followed what you are doing with the engine, but to start with try getting a stock alternator bracket:
AFAIK they fit on all engines. |
#9
IP: 97.32.64.226
|
|||
|
|||
sorry, sometimes i don't proofread. I'm selling it but, if I can't, I'm putting it in a motor boat.
My main objective is ensuring that I'm not selling someone a ''bad'' engine. However, I also want to get the best price. So if I can't sell it, for the price I want, then I'm keeping it. But either way the whole project is for showing off. It's all about how it sounds and looks. That's why I'm trying to use the original mounts casted on the side of the head. And I was wondering where to get an alternator that would fit without changing anything. Or at least utilizing the original mounts and tensioner in some way. If I sell it, then I probably won't buy an alternator at all. I know I'm a pain in the arse. Anyone figure out the year? |
#10
IP: 137.103.82.194
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#11
IP: 97.32.67.157
|
|||
|
|||
If you look at the picture of the head you'll see two lobes sticking out with holes drilled. The original manual shows a photograph of the alternator mounted on those with a bolt.
|
#12
IP: 24.152.132.65
|
||||
|
||||
I'm going to take a guess that those ears were for a generator rather than an alternator, the reason you're having a hard time finding one to fit. Looks like the engine is a 1964 model year. Here's a picture of an old automotive generator showing the spacing of the mounts.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 05-11-2017 at 10:41 PM. |
#13
IP: 97.32.67.157
|
|||
|
|||
The book says it's an alternator
|
#14
IP: 97.32.67.157
|
|||
|
|||
But if they are for a generator would I be able to find a new one like that. A generator would be cool.
|
#15
IP: 97.32.67.157
|
|||
|
|||
Yup a generator is the route I'm taking. And I found the year. You guys are a great help.
Next thing is the my rusted ignition retard switch. Anyone got any experience with that? I think buying a new one would be best as long as it has the switch. Just wondering if it's safe to heat. I don't want to melt a seal or something. I've taken it apart to the spinning flat metal disk on the inside. I plan on heating the switch on the outside But if anyone's tried and failed at this, please stop me. |
#16
IP: 24.152.132.65
|
||||
|
||||
I appreciate what the book might say but it's hard to explain the existence and spacing of the ears otherwise not to mention the interesting redneck cobble-mount for the existing alternator.
I think a generator could be found but if using the engine for an inboard auxiliary it will have to be ignition proof for safety and USCG compliance. As a start, try Luna Industries. They specialize in vintage automotive parts. Perhaps ask them about the spacing of the mounts to see how yours compares. If it's a match you can move onto ignition protection questions.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#17
IP: 97.32.67.164
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks. If I can't sell it, I'm definitely going with a generator.
So I got the oil pan off. And everything looked good. Does anyone have any objections about changing those wires, on the castle nuts, to cotter pins? I've seen wires before but, they're usually on a moving parts that would be thrown out of balance with a cotter pin. |
#18
IP: 137.103.82.194
|
||||
|
||||
That bracket is bolted on just like all the others:
|
#19
IP: 24.152.132.65
|
||||
|
||||
He's referring to this picture Joe . . .
Ken, if you're thinking of putting this in an open runabout you might be exempt from the ignition proof requirement. Check our USCG Standards forum category.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 05-12-2017 at 10:03 AM. |
#20
IP: 97.32.72.78
|
|||
|
|||
I think the bracket is a factory thing because the stud bolts are longer. The alternator is the cob job. Also the mounts on the head were pry for a generator option or they just had a lot of casted heads laying around when made the switch to alternators. You see this in old cars.. they use parts left over from the previous year. My uncle has a 67 1/2 corvette, some are 67 parts, some are 68 parts.
|
#21
IP: 137.103.82.194
|
||||
|
||||
Wow - I have never seen one of those old heads with those ears. The bracket on his engine now is just bolted on and could be replaced with the new one. I can't see trying to use an old generator, the #1 complaint with A4 alternators is low output at lower RPMs and generators are worse.
Quote:
|
#22
IP: 24.152.132.65
|
||||
|
||||
I've never seen one either, the reason I made the generator guess. Since Ken has it he's considering the cool factor and its original configuration and rarity certainly makes it cool. One thing's for sure, the redneck cobble-bracket is un-cool.
Frankly we don't know yet if the tabs are spaced for a generator, still in guessing mode. Ken, are you repowering the Pearson?
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#23
IP: 137.103.82.194
|
||||
|
||||
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELCO-REMY-1...1Y59lL&vxp=mtr
INSIDE MOUNTING MEASUREMENTS 7'' OUTSIDE 7 7/8. |
#24
IP: 97.32.72.78
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah I tested the alternator at idle and it wasn't putting out anything. But the drive pully on the engine is a standard pully with a keyed shaft. I could change that no problem. The casting number on the pully can't be seen while it's in place so aftermarket would look fine. I figured I would paint the casting numbers a different color.....because it's cool
|
#25
IP: 97.32.72.78
|
|||
|
|||
The Pearson was junk. In fact all the rust came from a leak in the hatch. The inside was down to plywood and someone sanded the deck, for some reason, and it was like a trampoline. I ripped everything thing off the deck by hand. Sold a lot, scrapped a lot.
2400 pounds of lead. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Atomic 4 Parts | marthur | For Sale - Engines and Engine Parts | 2 | 01-18-2017 08:06 AM |
For sale. Atomic 4 engine plus many parts | nhoj4782 | For Sale - Engines and Engine Parts | 9 | 12-12-2014 04:36 PM |
Early VS New Atomic | ukrsindicat | General Interest | 3 | 09-17-2013 06:10 PM |
Early and late model distributor mounting options | Marian Claire | Ignition System | 2 | 03-28-2012 10:21 AM |