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View Poll Results: What kind of motor oil do you use?
30W 104 50.98%
10W-30 59 28.92%
10W-40 30 14.71%
Detergent 47 23.04%
Non-Detergent 4 1.96%
Natural (as opposed to synthetic) 48 23.53%
Synthetic 9 4.41%
Motorcycle Oil 4 1.96%
SG Grade 6 2.94%
Some Other Variation 12 5.88%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 204. You may not vote on this poll

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  #51   IP: 76.180.1.249
Old 08-17-2012, 01:16 AM
keithems keithems is offline
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there's no doubt from all i've read here and elsewhere, that that is the optimal.

the only question is, is it worth the cost and the effort to obtain, when 10w30 and 40 are available virtually everywhere?

k
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  #52   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 08-17-2012, 09:00 AM
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My second choice, for a recently rebuilt or "tight" engine would be the best straight 30w detergent available, never 10w 30 except in cold areas.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:39 AM
keithems keithems is offline
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do tell why, hanley

btw--the "w" means "winter" meaning a multigrade like 10w30..you mean just a 30 wt, right?

and i'm not sure if my engine qualifies as newly rebuilt or tight....yes, it was just out...but it's not like an mmi exchange....cam shaft was replaced [with used], new rings, new rod bearings, some new valves--the rest serviced, head serviced, block hot tanked [i think], oil screen replaced....so...not sure....

i did notice last nite on initial start up it blew a fair amt of blue-grey smoke for about 30 sec. -- is that oil leaking by the rings already?
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  #54   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 08-17-2012, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithems View Post
do tell why, hanley

btw--the "w" means "winter" meaning a multigrade like 10w30..you mean just a 30 wt, right?

and i'm not sure if my engine qualifies as newly rebuilt or tight....yes, it was just out...but it's not like an mmi exchange....cam shaft was replaced [with used], new rings, new rod bearings, some new valves--the rest serviced, head serviced, block hot tanked [i think], oil screen replaced....so...not sure....

i did notice last nite on initial start up it blew a fair amt of blue-grey smoke for about 30 sec. -- is that oil leaking by the rings already?
If you just replaced rings expect a little oil burning until the new rings get settled. On another thread I mentioned that I changed to 15w 40 based on oil pressure and noise issues. I really like the performance with the 15w 40 but I think an engine with a "tight oil pressure curve" would do just fine with 30. Some members have reported clutch slippage with 10w 30.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:30 PM
keithems keithems is offline
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i had the slippage with a variety of oils....

i think in most cases the only good way to cure it is to adjust it properly, which i did.....yes getting down there is a p.i.t.a. for an old guy like me...but necessary

on my boat the yoke for the tranny cable is attached on the top of the tranny cover -- held by the same bolts -- so getting the cover back on is the hard part....i did find however, that i can leave one of the 2 bolts holding the yoke on -- just loose -- and slide the cover over enuf to do the adjustment -- so then replacing it is easier, since the one bolt helps position things -- still took a lot of time, but worth it....

not sure what you mean by noise -- i'm finding now hanley that i still have that ticking noise -- esp at idle -- seems to be coming from near the flywheel...but if i put in a little extra oil, or screw in the adjuster a bit, it goes away -- unfortunately, doing that means i see some oil drips under the engine after running it at cruise...do u think the rotella 15w40 would help with that [the noise and/or the dripping]? -- or do i want to go to the straight 30 wt, which presumably may be thicker -- though not really -- based on the amsoil website, 10w30 and 30 would be the same thickness once warmed up to operating temp -- the 10w40 would be thicker...
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  #56   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 08-17-2012, 03:43 PM
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The light ticking is fairly common and harmless from what I have seen. If you overfill the oil you may be losing it out the tailshaft seal or even the oil pan gasket or joint where pan, block and gear housing meet. As far as turning the adjuster, I would not exceed 40 psi at cruise.
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:44 PM
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Tardy last week and knew the meter was at the 20 hour mark...and the A4 was due for an oil change. Figured I wouldn't motor much down the shore for a 4 day cruise...turns out we motored 12 hours in less than favorable conditions but all worked well. No oil usage and the engine ran like a champ.

Today, changed oil again with 15w40...comfortable again. Remember to turn that raw water pump grease cap every couple of hours as well when motoring
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The optimist expects it to change.
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Last edited by Mo; 08-20-2012 at 09:02 PM.
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  #58   IP: 99.155.84.215
Old 09-09-2012, 11:22 AM
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Shell Rotella T 30w Label Change

I was wondering if there is a difference in the Shell Rotella T 30w and the Rotella T1 30w. The new label does not have the gasoline rating. It only shows CF-2 and CF. I have been using the Pennzoil 30w but looks like the Rotella might have better additives. Thoughts?
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  #59   IP: 24.224.206.117
Old 09-13-2012, 06:26 PM
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Smile read through this.

Hi, re your question in post #58:

It should be written on the bottle safe for gasoline engines as well. "S" rating should be there. If not, I don't know. The oil I buy states may be used in Gasoline, Diesel and Propane engines....attached is a read for you to look through. If you read more on the diesel aspect "C" and see what everything means and I think it's superior. Been running it for a long time now. Worth the read....enjoy.

http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE%20...%20Service.pdf
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1976 C&C 30 MKI

The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
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  #60   IP: 174.58.92.14
Old 09-16-2012, 10:59 PM
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Smile Oil Used

I'm using Shell Rotella T 1 30W.
Cduer, If you goggle "Shell Rotella engine oil" the Shell site has descriptions of all the Rotella oils including T & T1.
Regards, Bob P.

Last edited by S1lverfox; 09-16-2012 at 11:07 PM. Reason: added comment
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  #61   IP: 24.188.38.160
Old 04-06-2013, 09:08 PM
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Question for the group.

How many of you have the old, manual oil extraction pump?

My 1966 has it. When I got the boat back from Harry, the yard removed it, threw it in the bilge. The leather cup was shot. I went to my auto part store on the advice of Ken. He sent me to the hardware store. Turns out a 1/2 inch faucet washer fits just fine.

Love that old pump. It's just cool. I put a two liter soda bottle in the bilge, and pump away.

Skywalker
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  #62   IP: 24.224.152.244
Old 04-15-2013, 10:03 PM
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Pre-season oil change done 10 April 2013. Used a drill pump to suck the old oil out but wasn't as happy with the results as when I used a shop vac. My son burned the motor out of it over the winter ...sucked plastic up around the air intake and burnt it up...so I'm down to one 5 gallon shop vac and have to keep that one hydrocarbon free..LOL.

I found the drill pump didn't have the ability to suck the base pan really dry...so, I may commission the "garage" shop vac for oil changes.

Mobile 15w40 in there again....change again in 20 - 25 hrs. Engine hrs on new meter showing 166. (I will refer to hrs here for next oil change as I have not started this year's log yet....I know I'll forget. ) Engine fired first thing again this year and purring like a kitty.
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"Odyssey"
1976 C&C 30 MKI

The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
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Last edited by Mo; 04-21-2013 at 08:35 PM.
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  #63   IP: 24.42.116.94
Old 02-08-2016, 10:05 AM
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shell rotella 10-40 as of last year.
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  #64   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 02-08-2016, 01:23 PM
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I love the 15-40w Rotella, too; but watch your start up pressure and let her warm up thoroughly before going to work.
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  #65   IP: 99.242.233.254
Old 02-08-2016, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I love the 15-40w Rotella, too; but watch your start up pressure and let her warm up thoroughly before going to work.
I've been running the same 15-40w Rotella too, since day one (when I swapped out some kind of black treacle that the PO had apparently been using). Oil pressure hasn't been an issue, although I'm on Lake Ontario so only in the water April - Oct. I change the oil every 40h or so as it's cheap insurance, and it's always clean-looking when I change it.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I love the 15-40w Rotella, too; but watch your start up pressure and let her warm up thoroughly before going to work.
Hanley, For this very reason (I was seeing 70+ PSI), I am trying the 5w-40 Synthetic Rotella for 2016. I'll let you know pressures after spring start up. Too bad we cannot change our poll choice as our decisions evolve.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:00 AM
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Someone on here had good luck with Mobil 1 motorcycle oil. I am somewhat nervous about using automotive synthetics with a wet clutch.
BTW - our local Dollar Store has both Marvel Mystery Oil and Rotella 15w40

Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
Hanley, For this very reason (I was seeing 70+ PSI), I am trying the 5w-40 Synthetic Rotella for 2016. I'll let you know pressures after spring start up. Too bad we cannot change our poll choice as our decisions evolve.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:48 PM
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I switched from 10w30 to 15w40 Rotella for last season, after reading so many posts in favor of it.
I have noticed no significant change in pressure, but she does sound a little quieter.
I'm going to stick with it. I like the idea of more detergent.

With the 10w30, after motoring at idle speed for extended periods, when I would increase throttle, I would get a big puff of oil smoke. This seems to be greatly reduced (if not eliminated) with the heavier Rotella.

as a side note, I have used 5w30, 10w30, and straight weight 30.

I'm pretty sure lower viscosity yields higher pressure readings and more blow by and valve guide leakage, hence more smoke.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:58 AM
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In my experience higher viscosity yields higher oil pressure for the same conditions. Oil pressure should be regarded as a specification whereas valve guide leakage is a failure of specification.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:03 PM
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so are you guys seeing higher pressure at start up and then a decrease after the engine warms up?
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsoukup View Post
so are you guys seeing higher pressure at start up and then a decrease after the engine warms up?
Yes, exactly. When cold, I show a pressure of 40PSI @2000 RPM. This drops to between 25-30 PSI when fully warmed. That's with 15W40 oil.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:21 PM
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hmmmm, I guess I don't pay close enough attention to my pressure. warmed up at cruising speed it's always near 40. and I do check often when I'm under way, but mine seems to be lower at start-up. probably because it's not making the revs it would under way.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:28 PM
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what kind of start-up temps are you guys dealing with?
Sometimes in spring around here it can be as low as 40 degrees, but I guess if straight 30 weight is okay, 15w-40 should be no problem.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:33 PM
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It is pretty rare to start the engine when it is below 32 degrees engine block temp for obvious reasons. I have started it a few times on 20 degree days and had to rewinterize at the end of the day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsoukup View Post
what kind of start-up temps are you guys dealing with?
Sometimes in spring around here it can be as low as 40 degrees, but I guess if straight 30 weight is okay, 15w-40 should be no problem.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:46 PM
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Starting around freezing temps not an issue. Diesel engines do it all the time and their tolerances and journals are no larger than ours. As long as the oil is good oil. In the "Arctic" we used 0W40 diesel oil but most still had 15w40 with a block heater. If it was -40 we kept machines running 24 hrs a day anyway. 32 F or 0C is not too cold for this stuff.

When the spring comes my boat goes in: there are many mornings when the frost is on the deck and I fire up and go for a sail. Same in the fall, mornings are cold.
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The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
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