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  #26   IP: 128.154.129.77
Old 09-24-2010, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Ed - So sorry about the cracked block - feels like a loss in the family. Perhaps you can find an engine with other deficiencies to combine with your good components. Best Regards, Hanley
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Originally Posted by lat 64 View Post
That's a dang shame!
If I had block I'd send it.
Thanks for the kind words, guys.

At this point, I'm thinking that, in the interest of time, I'll probably buy a rebuilt short block from Don and transfer my manifold, head, alternator, starter, fuel pump, carb, and electronic ignition from the old engine. This seems to be a good balance between time & cost.

Along those lines, does anybody have dimensions for a simple benchtop engine cradle? I'm thinking along the lines of a piece of 3/4 inch ply and a couple of pieces of 2x6. I figure to build two of them and set the new engine up next to the old to simplify the transfer and buildup.
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  #27   IP: 216.115.121.253
Old 09-25-2010, 02:54 PM
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Ed,
I posted a shot of my cobbled up stand for an earnest young man at the thread called 12 year olds rebuild Post # 16

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=16

Russ
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  #28   IP: 96.241.200.157
Old 09-26-2010, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lat 64 View Post
Ed,
I posted a shot of my cobbled up stand for an earnest young man at the thread called 12 year olds rebuild Post # 16

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=16

Russ
Thanks Russ. That's exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of. Those look like 2x8s rather than 2x6s. What's the spacing? Someone told me its 11 1/2 ". Sound right?
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  #29   IP: 173.9.105.253
Old 09-27-2010, 01:25 AM
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According to the diagrams I have the measurement athwartship motor mount to mount is 11 1/2" on center.
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  #30   IP: 216.115.121.253
Old 09-27-2010, 11:53 AM
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Oh my goodness! You guys measure things?
I just pushed the two boards up to the oil pan rails and used bugle-head deck screws with washers through the motor mount holes.
More deck screws "toenailed" the boards to the cross pieces. I did have to use a roofing axe to chop out a little clearance for the dipstick boss.
Something else you should make room for in the shop is a big overstuffed arm chair for reading the manual and sipping something. Most of this work is done after a regular days-o-work slog.

It snowed here a little yesterday. Time for armchair sailing.
R
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  #31   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 09-27-2010, 12:10 PM
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An axe, eh - do you have any Viking relatives?
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  #32   IP: 216.115.121.253
Old 09-27-2010, 11:55 PM
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Granpa was a swede. Came over in '06.
Does that count?
I did notice that no one disputes my "measurement" when I have a framing axe in my hand. Maybe I should show my sensitive Side for a change?

Russ the red
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  #33   IP: 128.154.157.212
Old 09-28-2010, 09:47 AM
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Causes of a cracked block

I'm curious as to the likely ways in which a block cracks. i have a particular theory in my case, but I'd like to hear what others think or know.

I can only think of three ways:
  1. Severe localized overheating (clogged passage?)
  2. Freeze damage
  3. Mechanical impact (say, with a framing axe )

Any others? And which, if any, of these are unlikely or impossible?

Questions, questions!
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  #34   IP: 71.181.37.53
Old 09-28-2010, 10:07 AM
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Not an expert, but maybe a thrown rod would crack or break a block?

Regards

Art
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  #35   IP: 24.152.131.220
Old 09-28-2010, 10:18 AM
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I once had a piston wall fail where the wrist pin attached, essentially a thrown rod. The destruction of the block was massive, looked like someone dropped a hand grenade in there.

I like the extreme temperature theory, either heat or cold and I'm leaning more toward cold.
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  #36   IP: 128.183.140.38
Old 10-01-2010, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I like the extreme temperature theory, either heat or cold and I'm leaning more toward cold.
That was my original thought too, as I've found other evidence that the engine was not properly winterized in the winter of '08-'09. It looks like the P.O. didn't remove the thermostat before circulating antifreeze thru the engine. This would cause the antifreeze to bypass the head & block, allowing them to freeze. And I did find cracks in the old head and the thermostat housing ears. My working theory was that there were also small cracks in the block that went unnoticed until they opened up wide.

But now I'm not so sure. How succeptable is the block to freeze damage? Won't the freeze plugs pop out first? (they didn't)

I'm beginning to lean towards the theory that some local obstruction in the block's cooling passages caused the region around the #3 exhaust valve to be starved of coolant, causing it to overheat and crack.

But I don't know the layout of the cooling passages in the block. Is this kind of blockage even possible? Maybe Don could weigh-in here.
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  #37   IP: 24.152.131.220
Old 10-01-2010, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
But now I'm not so sure. How succeptable is the block to freeze damage? Won't the freeze plugs pop out first? (they didn't)
OK, the following is something I learned long ago from an engine builder under exclusive contract to Mercury Marine Division. I didn't confirm it independently so take it for what it's worth.

What are commonly called freeze plugs are actually core plugs, necessary in the block casting process to align and evacuate the internal sand form. While it's true the closing plugs may pop under freezing conditions, that's not their primary purpose and not a guaranty. The core plugs may be strategically located to take advantage of this side benefit however.

Anyway, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
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Last edited by ndutton; 10-01-2010 at 11:35 PM.
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  #38   IP: 71.191.250.44
Old 10-01-2010, 05:13 PM
keelcooler keelcooler is offline
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Niel’s Merc mechanic friend is correct. The old auto and marine engines of the 50’s and 60’ were heavy walled and could withstand freeze expansion trauma dropping the plugs into the bilge. On those old set ups only the manifolds and oil coolers would blow. For the last 20 years Merc has only used GM engines. The 350 cracks on the outside and the 454 likes to crack on the inside push rod alley areas. The small GM 4cyl will some times survive a mushy salt water freeze. The v6 cracks inside and outside. A cooling jacket full of sand or sediment will sometimes not allow proper circulation of antifreeze causing isolated freeze damage.

Our motors tend to collect block sediment on the hot port side away from flow blast at the side plate inlet. That’s why Don has recommended the addition of a rear downward flow hole in the side plate fitting in an effort to direct some flow around the rear cylinder to combat this build up.

Many an a4 block has frozen and lived to run another day. Not so much for our manifolds and heads.
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