Oil Gauge with a Leaking Tube

[congoboard]

On my new (to me) 1978 Newport 30 II There us an oil tube that goes up to the gauge. The darn thing leaks just enough to make a mess in the engine compartment. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I could replace this with ?

Also the previous owners (I am the third) put the gauges in the engine compartment. You have to remove the companionway stairs to read them ! I would like to be able to see them from the helm without standing on my head (picky I know). Does anyone have any suggestions for a weather proof mounting method - and what brand(s) of new gauges to consider?

[TomG]

Congo,

You might be able to just replace the ferrule in the gauge line to stop the leak, if the leak isn't from the inside of the gauge. Ferrules are easily had at your local hardware store and look like this:


If you are looking to replace all your gauges, there are many choices. Moyer Marine (this forum's benefactor) offers very nice Stewart-Warner gauges and senders. MMI also offers the perfect tach for our low revving A-4s.

I just replaced all my instrumentation and added not only a tach, but an hour meter and a voltmeter as well. While I was at it, I replaced the starter switch, moved the blower switch to the cockpit, and added a low oil pressure/high water temp alarm purchased here at Moyer. I found a very good deal on Faria gauges and have been quite happy with the installation and appearance. Let me know if you have specific questions regarding my install.

Here is a picture of the old panel:



Here is the new panel:

[ndutton]

Newport 30's originally had only a fuel gauge located at the electrical panel in the starboard companionway along with the ignition switch. Oil pressure and water temp were monitored by an alarm system. It looks like a previous owner bought a 3 gauge array from J.C. Whitney and put it in there.

With your goal of a cockpit mounted panel you will probably use electric gauges and senders. Unless you find a salvaged panel (eBay, Craig's list) you'll be fabricating your own. Expect to make an engine wiring harness too. There are a few threads and drawings on this site you should find helpful. Search 'instrument' or 'control panel' and you'll find them.

The port cockpit coaming has excellent access for your panel location.

I also noticed your exhaust system has been replaced with a different type than original. Everything in good shape there?

Where are you located?

[JOHN COOKSON]

Buy Marine Rated Gauges

I (stupidly) bought a direct read oil pressure gauge from my local auto parts store for my boat. It lasted about a year and a half before it rusted out. Live and learn.

TRUE GRIT

[Kurt]

Congoboard -- that is definitely an after-market automotive style oil pressure gauge. I have exactly the same thing on my 1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass. It is not really the proper gauge to have on your boat, but if you want to keep it and it works, well, you can. Someone mentioned that ferrule might need replacing. It depends on where it is leaking from. The fittings might just need to be tightened - I have to do that periodically on my Olds. However, more likely it is leaking from a small hole or imperfection in the plastic line itself. Those things get brittle over time and get little cracks in them that will seep (and eventually pour) oil. The hot environment of the engine compartment definitely helps those plastic lines become brittle. Any auto parts store will have replacement plastic line for your gauge.

[Bold Rascal]

Plastic sender hose

Not knocking the plastic tube but....
I hade the exact same setup and the plastic hose always leaked and even just popped out a couple times

Buy yourself some peace of mind and replace that plastic with some copper.

[Marian Claire]

Congoboard: I agree with the others that these gauges are not the best for marine use. But I bought some to test out my rebuild and ended up installing them on the boat. I built a small box and mounted the gauges. Then made a cover using heavy plastic. It has lasted over three years and has been exposed in the cockpit the whole time. The plastic line did develop a hole and leaked. I believe I bumped the line into the hot manifold to cause the leak. Again I am not really recommending this but it may work for you temporarily. Only pic I could find. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[JOHN COOKSON]

Another Observation

I would change the plugs sometime soon before they become any more corroded into the head and possibly break off when you try to loosen them. If they don't come loose you will have to use some of your favorite penetrating oil around them. #3 looks like it has had water around it.

TRUE GRIT

[dvd]

New Guages!!!!

Moyer sells all the proper guages for the a-4. Thats where I would start. Call Ken and he'll set you right up.

dvd

[congoboard]

Newport 30's originally had only a fuel gauge located at the electrical panel in the starboard companionway along with the ignition switch. Oil pressure and water temp were monitored by an alarm system. It looks like a previous owner bought a 3 gauge array from J.C. Whitney and put it in there.

With your goal of a cockpit mounted panel you will probably use electric gauges and senders. Unless you find a salvaged panel (eBay, Craig's list) you'll be fabricating your own. Expect to make an engine wiring harness too. There are a few threads and drawings on this site you should find helpful. Search 'instrument' or 'control panel' and you'll find them.

The port cockpit coaming has excellent access for your panel location.

I also noticed your exhaust system has been replaced with a different type than original. Everything in good shape there?

Where are you located?

It is interesting that you noticed the exhaust - in a previous thread I asked about my fouled plugs that seemed to indicate high exhaust back pressure. I will add that to the list of things to take care of before May 1st... I am based in Boston and sail out of Westport, MA

[ndutton]

The original exhaust was a standpipe and you now have a waterlift. If you determine the exhaust system is a candidate for rework or replacement I urge you to consider going back to the standpipe. The benefits are numerous.

I think if it were possible, the majority of members would go to a standpipe at the first opportunity. With your boat, it's possible.

On the other hand, if your current exhaust is in good repair and performing well it's hard to justify the investment.

edit:
The picture showing the plastic oil line up close is a little blurry but it appears the line might be heat damaged. It's interesting the area of the damage is in the vicinity of the UHS (ubiquitous hot spot). The manifold typically has a spot at the forward lower end that gets so hot it burns off the paint. A plastic line close by could easily become compromised.