Winter 2018-19 projects

[joe_db]

For those of us north of the Carolinas it is that time of the year when the next gas fill-up is probably the last until 2019 and the remaining cruises few in number.
So.....what have you for this winter? I keep failing at my vow to just turn the heat on until spring and not take things apart and then more things and then more things
Possibles:
1. Put in a new impeller. The old one is many years old. I did a scavenger hunt and found 5 new ones all over the boat hidden in corners () I don't recall buying, but they are all ancient in their boxes. Might have to buy one.
2. Maybe do electronic ignition. Now I can get an EI with adaptive dwell I want to see how this does. Counterargument is the scavenger hunt also turned up 3 sets points and condensers and a distributor cap new in boxes.
3. Set up a valve and line for fuel return.
4. Maybe revisit my FWC ideas.
5. Maybe add an electric choke. I do not like the cable choke.
6. New engine start battery. The start battery will no longer do a cold-iron start. That battery is over a decade old, so no complaints really.
7. Teak clean up and oil/varnish.
8. Finally get around to getting my amazing cool looking white painted super custom better than any other type Balmar alternator fixed that died. Glad I paid about $60 for it vs. a few hundred it listed for new

[Dave Neptune]

Joe, I too have found old impellers laying around in the past. The last couple of changes I bought 2 new ones and discarded the rest. When it is time to "rebuild" do to time not a calamity I discard the spare and buy 2 new ones and repeat. The spare was for "trash and/or calamity" only.

Go for the EI, I ran it for over 30 years and not a single failure!!!! Pay attention to voltages and use a resistor. I like the Indigo better only for the indicator lite that lets you know it is "switching".

Why do you want a return line? If it is for polishing I would just add a separate pump, filter and lines. The A-4 does not need a lot of pressure or volume and so should be separated IMHO.

I have seen a few electric chokes adapted and they were a PIA to get right if they used a "heater". The plain ole OFF/ON solenoid type do not add any richness like you can add with a mechanical choke and the ole mechanical may just keep you running and out of trouble sometime. Go mechanical and keep it simple.

Dave Neptune

[Ric]

compression

I had no compression on number 4 cylinder due to stuck exhaust valve.Took off the head, freed up the valve and ground all valves.Replaced head with new gaskets.Without spark plugs turned over engine by hand and felt slight compression at all cylinders.Gave each cylinder a shot of lube oil and turned engine over by hand.Now no compression at all on any cylinder. Shouldn't lube oil have helped increase compression? Would be grateful for any opinions.

[Dave Neptune]

Rick, did you adjust the valves? I would check clearances before doing anything else.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Ric ptII

Ric, are the plugs screwed in?

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

Joe, I too have found old impellers laying around in the past. The last couple of changes I bought 2 new ones and discarded the rest. When it is time to "rebuild" do to time not a calamity I discard the spare and buy 2 new ones and repeat. The spare was for "trash and/or calamity" only.

Go for the EI, I ran it for over 30 years and not a single failure!!!! Pay attention to voltages and use a resistor. I like the Indigo better only for the indicator lite that lets you know it is "switching".

Why do you want a return line? If it is for polishing I would just add a separate pump, filter and lines. The A-4 does not need a lot of pressure or volume and so should be separated IMHO.

I have seen a few electric chokes adapted and they were a PIA to get right if they used a "heater". The plain ole OFF/ON solenoid type do not add any richness like you can add with a mechanical choke and the ole mechanical may just keep you running and out of trouble sometime. Go mechanical and keep it simple.

Dave Neptune

Here is the deal with the return line- My aborted FWC experiments had the engine hitting 180-190 on a hot day at cruise power or above. This is not too hot for the engine, but it was for the fuel system. After 2-3 hours of heatsoak, the fuel pressure would get erratic. At first it would drop and quickly return, and then progress to longer drops and more time at 0. Eventually it would be bad enough the engine could quit. This never happens with RWC and a much cooler engine. I rigged an experimental return line once and bleeding some gas back to the tank would solve this issue.
So if I ever want to run FWC again, I can either figure out a better system that can hold about 120-130 degrees on a hot day at full power or have a way to bleed some gas back.
Third choice would I guess be find out exactly what is up with this, but it has defied easy fixes. Getting rid of my dual fuel pump assembly was a big help, less metal mass to soak up heat maybe???

[Dave Neptune]

Joe, I agree that the heat is no big deal. It is the temp of the box that is the concern. You probably were in the early stages of "vapor lock" conditions. Vapor in the pump will not pump thus the zero.

Do you have any idea how hot the engine compartment was? Do you run the blower to keep the box ventilated?

I assume you are running in fresh water.

I did a re-plumb of the bypass line and had far more consistent control of engine temp and I could trust the gage much more. I posted some pics a few years back I think. I did this all without any t'stat. In fact when I bought the boat with the seized engine I removed the t'stat while getting it running. Just might work for your experiments as far as temp control and accurate reading are concerned.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

Joe, it sounds to me like your heat exchanger is/was insufficient to do the job. I speak from experience, the best thing I ever did for my FWC was to replace my eBay 2 pass Sendure HX with a new Seakamp 4 pass as big as available space would allow. The improvement was huge right out of the box, enough to allow the new MMI thermostat take control (bypass restriction valve still installed but fully open). Now with electric FWC I am steady at 150°~160° running hard.

Before, with the old HX, no stat and bypass valve fully closed (max cooling) hard running was at 190°+ approaching 200°.

[joe_db]

Joe, I agree that the heat is no big deal. It is the temp of the box that is the concern. You probably were in the early stages of "vapor lock" conditions. Vapor in the pump will not pump thus the zero.

Do you have any idea how hot the engine compartment was? Do you run the blower to keep the box ventilated?

I assume you are running in fresh water.

I did a re-plumb of the bypass line and had far more consistent control of engine temp and I could trust the gage much more. I posted some pics a few years back I think. I did this all without any t'stat. In fact when I bought the boat with the seized engine I removed the t'stat while getting it running. Just might work for your experiments as far as temp control and accurate reading are concerned.

Dave Neptune

I also removed the thermostat and have a bypass valve. In RWC mode it works great, i can keep the engine below 120 if desired even on the hottest day unless I run 100% power. I might creep up to 130.
In FWC mode not so much. It will be at 160 even at moderate cruise and head right for 180 or more at full blast.
The engine "room" is not roomy and gets quite hot if the engine is at 180. I agree vapor lock is the issue and it would have been next to impossible to find out without a fuel pressure gauge.
* not sure about the boat being in fresh water. This year kind of we got so much rain but usually it is salt water here. The dolphins that jumped around me on the 4th of July died from some fresh water issue about a month later

[joe_db]

Joe, it sounds to me like your heat exchanger is/was insufficient to do the job. I speak from experience, the best thing I ever did for my FWC was to replace my eBay 2 pass Sendure HX with a new Seakamp 4 pass as big as available space would allow. The improvement was huge right out of the box, enough to allow the new MMI thermostat take control (bypass restriction valve still installed but fully open). Now with electric FWC I am steady at 150°~160° running hard.

Before, with the old HX, no stat and bypass valve fully closed (max cooling) hard running was at 190°+ approaching 200°.

I think you are correct. The common A4 HX is just not big enough to do what I want. It is "two-blocked" in the summer.

[joe_db]

I am going for EI, I will order it soon. I am going to use the Indigo with the variable dwell unit. I am contemplating trying to do my dual ignition idea I have been kicking around for ages. I have the spark combiner already.

[ToddMJ]

Advice

Hello - I am a new Atomic 4 owner on a 1977 Colombia 8.7

I have the original manual, and the moyer maintenance catalogue. Both serve basic purposes, however they read as if the reader has some prior knowledge.And I am not a mechanic, I am certainly able to learn/understand basic parts, but need the 'beginner' version..

My question is, are there ANY other resources out there that I could read or watch to get me from "terrified Atomic 4 engine owner" to "more confident Atomic 4 engine owner"?

Any help is appreciated.

ToddMJ

[toddster]

I hauled the boat this year and have it sitting next to the workshop for the winter. Since I don't do this very often, the plan is to prioritize things best done with the bottom dry and the mast down. I can't really think of any engine-related things in this category. ? Although immediate access to the workshop could make many things go more smoothly. Having to climb a 12-foot ladder to get into the boat makes some things go less smoothly. One possibility is to replace the 1/2" engine intake with a larger through-hull that could act as a "sea chest" for multiple applications. (Galley foot-pump, water maker, AC heat pump.) I could use the head intake for some of these but it is maybe a little too close to the waterline.

I had wanted to install some reinforcing bulkheads beneath the cabin liner and to form a watertight crash bulkhead forward of the rudder post. (There are NO bulkheads aft of the mast on the starboard side.) But because of this very thing, the hull is so distorted when sitting in the cradle that I guess I have to wait until it is floating again.

Already stripped and repainted the bottom and am working on stripping the deck as weather permits. Have some track and steps to install on the mast. Beyond that, the potential list is long but not critical to do while hauled.

[joe_db]

If the hull is distorted, you need a better cradle! Might want to look into that. 99% of the weight should be on the keel and the side supports just keep the boat from falling over.
I do like the watertight bulkhead idea. A crash bulkhead forward is a good idea too if there is a way to do it.

[toddster]

The boat was designed with a forward crash bulkhead under the vee-berth, but I think the spade rudder ought to be contained within one as well.

There is no place at all on the starboard side where the hull has transverse support below the waterline. Well,except at the vee-berth. Although the port side has three bulkheads tabbed to the hull, the starboard has only the settee acting as three long stringers at the waterline, close to the keel, and the bookshelf. You can stick your head down there (or more likely, your phone camera) and it's wide open from transom to the front. And there is currently no way to even reach the rudder post because it's hidden under the liner and beneath the fuel tank. If it took a high-five from a whale or something, the boat would sink. On the other hand, I suppose you could argue that the port side is short on stringers, aft.

It's weird. Especially since just a few years later, Ericson started bragging about their "tri-axial force grid." (Just don't look closely at any of our older boats...) No matter where you put a jack pad, the hull is going to oil-can on starboard. So I use eleven of them. I guess I'm sort of proposing to retrofit a "force grid" into there.