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  #1   IP: 24.190.8.59
Old 09-04-2012, 02:40 PM
barrett bonden barrett bonden is offline
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Exhaust manifold stud came off in my hands

Exhaust manifold stud came off in my hands



The forward (closest to flywheel) manifold stud came off in my hand. Didn’t even have a tool on it, never played with it; the remains of a few threads could be seen on the end of the stud. As I’ve been reading the forum and contemplating a haul out of the engine and a re-build I’ve gathered this is not the best sign for future longevity of the engine ( it’s sea water cooled). However I’m not clear if a replacement stud and other work holds hope.
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  #2   IP: 99.124.190.130
Old 09-04-2012, 04:07 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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Barrett,
I've seen those studs corrode from inside the water jacket until there isn't metal left to hold them into the block. Checking the block, however, shows the female threads to be fine. I recommend you remove the manifold, run a 3/8 tap into the holes, then see what's there for thread. You may only need a new stud (or three)!
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:29 PM
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Talking

If you determine that enough thread remains in the block, you can get new studs from Moyer Marine. The threads going into the block should be liberally coated with Permatex #2 (from the tube).
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:29 PM
barrett bonden barrett bonden is offline
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Ah, reading your replies has been the best part of my day

Ah, reading your replies has been the best part of my day. Many thanks.

I picked up, for parts & to learn on, some years back a “junked” A4 at a local yard for $100 ( I think the yard and owner gave up too fast, but we’ll see as we get to the crank shaft; that was diagnosed as the issue) Prior to any work on my boat’s engine I’ve played with the practice motor; been great not to have to worry about the real thing.
I have it now in the garage along with the Service and Overhaul Manual, and am about to start taking off the top end and the reversing gear. My thought was to fully learn the internals on it and then pull the boat engine on haul out in a month or two.(the broken stud is from the boat’s)
One way or another I’ll get a working A4. Just thought I’d mention this as I suspect I’ll be posting about both motors for a while; I have a lot to learn !
Many thanks.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:05 PM
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Barrett,
With these engines getting along in years (me too), it's a) nice to be able to work on them yourself & not have to search (& pay) for a mechanic, and b) to have a spare engine ready to go - just in case.
About 10 years ago, a friend with a Pearson 35 was changing from A4 to diesel. His A4 was leaking oil and filling the cabin with smoke, so he gave me his old A4. I brought it home, rebuilt it (needed rings and a rear transmission oil seal), and had it sitting in the basement. The wife got on my case a bit about the 'clutter', but I said 'don't worry about it'. Two years later my engine wouldn't start one Spring (frozen valve), so the bummer came out one afternoon and the basement engine went in the next morning. Done deal. Dead engine had a cracked block.
That engine (1976?) has since been converted to FW cooling and is running fine. But, I've got another one in the basement being restored - bought the thing as a piece of iron on a pallet plus a bucket or two of parts. Wife hasn't given me a bit of grief yet.
This afternoon, I took the block up to a shop to do the exhaust valve seats, skim cut the top of the block (after magnaflux), plus do the Kaminsky thing to the transmission housing - should cost me about $125. Still need a gasket set & the rings - another $200? Oh well..

Last edited by Al Schober; 09-04-2012 at 11:09 PM. Reason: added cracked block info
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:51 PM
barrett bonden barrett bonden is offline
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Al: At the moment my girlfriend cant get her bike into the garage for the engine parts and tools. I’ve already found a way to work into the conversation your (very helpful & optimistic ) remarks about your spare.
I must admit to enjoying the learning. When I got this boat I had never dared to open a carb; I believe I can now remove, clean, and replace it in half an hour, need be. It’s already taught me some engine mechanics, along with plumbing and electrical work ( as well as a bit of sailing)
I hope in a few weeks or months I’ll know enough to be of some use to others on the forum.
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  #7   IP: 99.124.190.130
Old 09-05-2012, 10:16 PM
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Barrett,
I remember one afternoon at Champlains on Block Island - sailed to the end of the dock with no engine. Carb had packed up.
Your 30 minutes to remove/clean/reinstall is about right. I did it 3 times in about 90 minutes until I got it working!
You GOTTA get your priorities right - if the GF wants her bike in the garage, MAKE ROOM! I figure I've got until mid october until the wife wants her car back in the garage. She hates scraping windshields. Maybe it would be easier to get her one of those remote starter things??
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