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#1
IP: 98.189.79.99
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Palmer P60
Hey All...so it was suggested I start a new thread here...
To back track...I have an old Columbia with a Palmer...been having shut down problems, have done all tests, spark, fuel filters, fuel pump, new fuel lines, compression, etc. Was still having an issue with the engine shutting down after a few minutes of running. I have now taken off the Carb and it is an Old Zenith with no part number, but just orders a rebuild kit from Moyer that looks like it'll work. This should be arriving in the next week, so I will be sure to post an update after I clean it and get it back to factory good. I hope you all find me on this thread! Adam |
#2
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Any pics of t=your Zenith. Probably the same carb or at least very close. Is it a Series 67?
Your symptoms and troubles should be in direct comparison to the A-4. Similar size and style just a different manufacturer. Dave Neptune |
#3
IP: 98.189.79.99
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This is the only pic I have so far...I'll put it together and take a better pic.
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#4
IP: 98.117.4.37
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Late model carb on Palmer P60
AFisch, For whatever it's worth, and if you can't resurrect your old carburetor, we do sell a handful of new Atomic 4 Zenith carburetors to Palmer P60 owners each year, and they work fine. https://moyermarine.com/product/carb...fcar_13-2_166/ .
The only complication is that original carburetors used on Palmer engines (as well as those on early model Atomic 4s) had internal scavenge tubes. So, to be Coast Guard legal, you'll need the additional adaptive parts listed in the product description in our catalog to provide a scavenge tube. This requirement will likely exist for any currently available new carburetor that would work on your Palmer P-60. You can call Ken at (610) 421-4436 for more information. Don |
#5
IP: 98.189.79.99
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Quote:
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#6
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Aisch, be very careful cleaning out the idle circuit. The idle jet in this series carb is very small and could easily be plugged by a "spec" of debris.
Also do install the scavenge tube as it can eliminate a big bang or burn. It is a safety devise and it is very simple. When you do try to start with the rebuilt carb do try using an auxiliary fuel tank and a gravity feed of a few feet will run her up enough to see if all is well. Once confirmed "good" then try feeding with the boats tank. If anything goes amiss do remove and flush the carb immediately. Probably no need to redo but you will at least know if the fuel in the tank is good~~somewhat important. Do use new lines and freshen the filters for the rebuilt carb if it passes the auxiliary fuel test. This is a perfect time to add a fuel pressure gage which can save much time diagnosing in the future. Dave Neptune |
The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post: | ||
AFisch (12-16-2019) |
#7
IP: 45.49.35.172
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Thus, take a look at your receipt and see exactly which rebuild kit you ordered. If it says "early model", you know that it is the wrong kit. Then look at the gasket between the two halves and you can bet that it doesnt cover the fifth screw. And you know that groovy shiny adjustment knob that came with the early model rebuild kit, which the directions say to install at the aft bottom of the carb...it doesn't belong on your late model carb. Rather, your carb just has a bolt-type plug in that goes there with a very specific size O-ring. The jet that is within that plug, as well as all the other jets, are all different too in the late model. Dont fret as I did about cross threading by placing early model jets etc. in a late model carb, the threads are the same in both rebuild kits. Hope that helps. Keep plugging away. I just got my late model A4 running again today after a six month adventure which included an engine swap (due to a thrashed #2 journal caused by me not putting oil in the early model engine, which is now in my garage waiting to be rebuilt) and rebuilding the late model A4 on my boat now with almost all new parts and a whole lot of fails. And it was all thanks to the patience and mentoring within this community and especially ndutton. FYI, six months ago, all I knew about engines was how to change a spark plug and put oil and gas (but I even failed at putting oil as you can see). I didn't even know what a carb was, let alone having the confidence to take it out and rebuild it. I have yet to learn as I am having a fuel delivery issue, but I digress. Good luck and please keep us posted. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ando For This Useful Post: | ||
AFisch (04-02-2020) |
#8
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Got ya
Any pics of your Zenith. Probably the same carb or at least very close. Is it a Series 67?
Your symptoms and troubles should be in direct comparison to the A-4. Similar size and style just a different manufacturer. Dave Neptune |
#9
IP: 24.152.132.140
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Based on your description I'm sure a carburetor rebuild is in order but I'm doubtful it will solve your problem. It really sounds like contaminated fuel to me. Do you have a mechanical or electric fuel pump?
I suggest you search the forum to read up on testing with an auxiliary fuel tank.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#10
IP: 137.103.82.227
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Second that. I am about 90% sure your problem will persist. Did you ever check the fuel pressure?
Last edited by joe_db; 12-12-2019 at 09:33 AM. |
#11
IP: 137.103.82.227
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I would think about a new one IMHO. I had one that caused endless issues no matter how many times it was cleaned or rebuilt and I finally got Moyer to mail me a new one mid-cruise. |
The Following User Says Thank You to joe_db For This Useful Post: | ||
AFisch (12-16-2019) |
#12
IP: 98.189.79.99
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And looking at the fuel coming out of the tank when checking the flow all the way down to the line going into the carb, it all looks clean and had a steady flow to it. Adam |
#13
IP: 107.3.176.227
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Starting issue
Reaching out to this tread for some additional assistance. Recently rebuilt my Zenith carb and after some lengthy tweaking (becoming an expert at removing and taking the carb apart) have it running fine but cannot get to start when cold. My only solution currently is to physically “choke” the carb by putting my hand over the intake to create enough suction to get fuel into the cylinders. Once it starts and is warm will restart every time. When it cools completely overnight need to go back to the manual process. This should happen with the choke but does not create enough suction. Did not make any changes to the choke on rebuild other than reattach the cable. Any thoughts? I’ve tried everything I can think of. Thank you.
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#14
IP: 47.142.136.120
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How did you adjust the choke cable?
Here's the correct way. In the cockpit support the knob ~ 1/4" off the stop by wrapping wire or something else around it. At the carburetor secure the outer cover and pass the center wire through the choke. Hold the choke open, and pull the center wire tight with pair of pliers and tighten the hold down screw on the choke. This takes two hands and a tail but it can be done. Remove the wire that is holding the knob up off the stop, pull the knob up, and check to see if the choke is fully closed. When you open the choke all the way the knob will be ~ 1/4" off the stop. ex TRUE GRIT Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 03-08-2021 at 06:30 PM. |
#15
IP: 192.186.122.174
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__________________
Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
The Following User Says Thank You to GregH For This Useful Post: | ||
W2ET (03-08-2021) |
#16
IP: 47.142.136.120
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Quote:
I changed the original post. ex TRUE GRIT |
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