With Moyer parts you know you are getting quality parts so you can't go wrong by getting it.
I just got a used head (engine studs, therm spacer kit with therm, by pass loop valve kit, fuel pump rebuild kit... etc) from them and I'll tell you what, it looks practically new including the inside of the water jacket.
You know what, even with shipping and handling the whole lot came out cheaper than if I would have shopped around to get all that stuff separately.
No, I don't work for Moyer but I've seen the light. I'm converted!
"Jim"
S/V "Ahoi"
1967 Islander 29
Harbor Island, San Diego
2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date
It's certainly a way to save some money if you can salvage the head, manifold, carb, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, etc off of the old engine.
There is, of course, a small risk that an assembly error can slip through because there's no opportunity for MMI to actually run the engine before shipping. They will completely support you if that happens, but it can still be a pain in the ass.
The best way to guard against that is to build up the engine on the bench and test run it there BEFORE putting it in the boat.
@(^.^)@ Ed
1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
Joe,
My main concern would be getting the bottom of the new block in the same plane as the bottom of the old transmission. Having a step there would seem to guarantee an oil leak. You might have to refit the two dowel holes.
Fill us in. Why do you think you need a short block?
Joe,
My main concern would be getting the bottom of the new block in the same plane as the bottom of the old transmission. Having a step there would seem to guarantee an oil leak. You might have to refit the two dowel holes.
Fill us in. Why do you think you need a short block?
Speaking about those two tapered pins - it is a real concern. Even a slight bending of the pin can cause an eversoslight gap or misalignment resulting in an oil leak. The Moyer Manual suggests removing them during a rebuild. Always check them carefully before reassembly. You can guess how I know this.
Joe,
My main concern would be getting the bottom of the new block in the same plane as the bottom of the old transmission. Having a step there would seem to guarantee an oil leak. You might have to refit the two dowel holes.
Having just purchased one, I can say definitively that the short block comes with the transmission already attached and aligned.
The standard short block is configured with a flange for a direct-drive connection. There is an option for a v-drive configuration which terminates in a splined shaft ready to receive the v-drive.
@(^.^)@ Ed
1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
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