Winterizing your Atomic 4

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  • macgyro
    Frequent Contributor
    • Sep 2014
    • 8

    Used similar

    Originally posted by hcrisp View Post
    Anyone used this stuff? From NAPA. Directions printed on the container are For Marine Use - "Do not dilute with water." Sounds like slush to me.
    Howard
    I've used similar antifreezes, popular opinion is that IF you dilute it with water, to shake it up real good before putting it in the engine, because people in the past have just added water and the antifreeze in a bucket and it did not mix properly, leaving sections of the cooling system protected by 100% water. I usually get the -50 type and don't dilute it. The ratio of water to antifreeze for a particular temperature protection is unknown to me. But I'm sure google knows.

    Dean

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    • Whippet
      Afourian MVP
      • May 2012
      • 272

      Brief Running in winter

      Will soon be on the hard, and I have a long list of winter to-dos, some of which will require starting up the old girl for brief few second periods, just to make sure all done correctly (after installing EI, new racor and fuel lines, new carb, various rewiring, OPSS, etc, etc).

      Question is, if i pull impeller, I assume the block antifreeze will stay just where it is and not belch out the transom, and all good for the next -20 day. Correct assumption? (I am raw water cooled).

      Thanks for help on a simple one.
      Steve
      Etobicoke YC, C&C27
      A4 #204381, 1980

      Comment

      • Mo
        Afourian MVP
        • Jun 2007
        • 4468

        Originally posted by Whippet View Post
        Will soon be on the hard, and I have a long list of winter to-dos, some of which will require starting up the old girl for brief few second periods, just to make sure all done correctly (after installing EI, new racor and fuel lines, new carb, various rewiring, OPSS, etc, etc).

        Question is, if i pull impeller, I assume the block antifreeze will stay just where it is and not belch out the transom, and all good for the next -20 day. Correct assumption? (I am raw water cooled).

        Thanks for help on a simple one.
        No need to pull impeller; once winterized and valve is off, a few seconds won't matter...it will belch a bit of antifreeze but that is all that's in there once winterized anyway. Only time you would have a problem is if you draw water back into the system.

        I'd do all my repairs, upgrades etc and then winterize...
        Mo

        "Odyssey"
        1976 C&C 30 MKI

        The pessimist complains about the wind.
        The optimist expects it to change.
        The realist adjusts the sails.
        ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

        Comment

        • Paul Wild
          Member
          • Apr 2019
          • 1

          resources for starting a winterized engine in the spring

          Hello everyone,

          apologies if this is covered already, perhaps you could point me to the right place if it is. I just bought my first boat: 1980 C&C 27 with an atomic 4 engine. The boat has been on the hard for the winter. I am having it delivered to my home town next week. I'm suddenly realizing how little I know about boats, including the engine! Is there somewhere that would walk me through what I will need to do to get the engine ready for the summer and to get it started?

          Thanks so much in advance

          Paul
          Port Elgin, ON, Canada

          Comment

          • jcwright
            Afourian MVP
            • Jul 2012
            • 158

            Hello Paul.

            Here is a link to Moyer's checklist for spring startup:



            Jack.

            Comment

            • Peter
              Afourian MVP
              • Jul 2016
              • 296

              some suggestions

              Hi Paul,

              Congrats on the boat purchase.

              1) Get a copy of the Moyer Manual -https://moyermarine.com/product/service-and-overhaul-manual/ Not expensive and a wealth of information re spring commission, winterizing etc.

              2) Be aware that marine engines typically mix engine cooling water with the exhaust at some point and this creates potential for getting water into the engine if you are having difficulty starting the engine, with potentially fatal results for the engine. So, be cautious when learning how to start your engine - keep water intake closed unless you are very confident it will fire up with little cranking. Once it starts open intake.

              3) Check exhaust system carefully for integrity - leaks in exhaust can be bad for both you/your crew and the engine

              4) Check fuel system for integrity - leaks can be deadly

              5) make sure you have a properly installed and functioning bilge blower

              6) check that choke cable is adjusted properly so that choke closes and opens fully - A4 often likes full choke when cold starting

              7) A4 is a simple engine that is easy to maintain yourself, particularly with the assistance of the very knowledgeable and kind folk on this forum. Learning how to keep it in good running order yourself will save you many $ and give you much peace of mind when out on the water.

              Hope that helps,

              Peter

              Comment

              • quiesence65
                Senior Member
                • May 2013
                • 44

                Marvel Mystery oil available in Canada

                I have found a source for the Marvel Mystery Oil in Canada......it is available in all PRINCESS AUTO SUPPLY STORES.

                Comment

                • Aj@yknot
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2019
                  • 27

                  Originally posted by edwardc View Post
                  Ignoring any fuel or oil prep with MMO, here's what I would do:

                  1: Remove the thermostat (I know, you don't have one), replace the housing, and clamp off the bypass line. This will insure that water gets flushed out of the block.

                  2: Disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through-hull and lead it into bucket of antifreeze.

                  3: Be SURE you're in neutral! The cutlass bearing needs water to cool and lube it! Secure the prop with a rag or line so it won't rotate from any residual drag from the transmission.

                  4: Run the engine just long enough to get pink antifreeze out of the exhaust, adding to the bucket as needed until this happens.

                  5: Kill the engine, remove the plugs, put a few squirts of MMO in each cylinder (as described elsewhere) and use the starter to turn it over a rev or two to distribute the MMO.

                  All in all, pretty similar to what you would do in the water. The key points
                  are to remove the thermostat and imobilize the prop.

                  *Just* what I was looking for -- I'm outta the water and in a cradle for the winter and was wondering if this was what I should do to get the antifreeze into the engine! --- Thanks for confirming my plan!
                  yKnot 28' Newport C&C @ PWM

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