Mystery parts

[winterhawk]

Hey everyone,

I've been lurking for a while. I have a A-4 in my Yankee 30. I'm mostly done with a major refit. Last on the list is the engine.

I just ordered some gaskets from Moyer. I need to get the exhaust back together and try to fire her up. Both the standpipe and a waterlift came with the boat. I'm going to use the standpipe for now, because I think it will be faster to put together. I need to get out of the yard asap.

I have many questions, but this one I need help on, what is the hose for? is it a crankcase breather?

now what about the exhaust thing on the left? I assume this is for the spare A-4 that came with the boat because it will not fit in the Yankee.


After a year of being in the yard I'm looking forward to firing the engine this weekend!

[Baltimore Sailor]

Yes, the hose in the first picture is a crankcase breather. It's a primitive way of trying to get crankcase fumes to be burnt in the engine by routing that hose to the top of the carb's flame arrestor. Moyer sells a PCV valve kit that does a much better job of that and only takes an hour or so to install. Does a great job of getting rid of that "engine smell" in the cabin.

The second picture... I don't have a clue. That looks like the flange from the manifold at the bottom, with a riser pipe leading to whatever-the-heck-it is, and then a pipe leading to the water lift muffler. Some kind of water injection baffle?

[keelcooler]

That is one heavy exhaust mixer.You might want to use that as a door stop. If you reinstall watch out for fatigue cracks at your pipe threads. Get rid of that PVC pipe at the water lift. Big no-no.

[FelicityRebuild]

Winter, I have the same exhaust mixer on my A-4. I also have been wondering what it is. I can't find anything like it in the MMI catalog. It works fine apparently, but I'd like to know what it's called and if there's a replacement part available. I'd like to replace it with something smaller and at least know how it works.

[winterhawk]

I don't plan on using that mixer or the waterlift for now. I have a standpipe in good shape.

The Yankee 30, like the Tartan has a midship engine with the standpipe in the head compartment. Mine even came with a fiberglass molded heatsheild/ cover for the standpipe.

Due to the engine location I've been wondering how I'd set up a waterlift system. The exhaust outlet faces forward. I'd assume getting a new manifold with a rear outlet would make the instal a lot cleaner/ easier.

[67c&ccorv]

That thing on the left is a "goose neck" water lift muffler - does the same thing as any other water lift muffler...gets rid of exhaust gases and cooling water without allowing sea water to back flow into the engine.

It is just a little smaller than most and used often in places where space is limited.

Cheers!

[charles@pricefarrington.c]

Where does the cerveza can fit on the A4?:

[winterhawk]

Where does the cerveza can fit on the A4?:

That's really my antenta booster for the radio. Works pretty well too.
Hum, maybe two cans would work even better......


I got another question, in the 1st picture, just to the lower left of the hose is what I belive is the oil pressure sending unit. True?

Anyways, that broke off in my hand today. gave it a light touch while looseing the motor mount and it snapped off flush with the block.
I guess better now than later.

I'm thinking I can tap the hole and find some sensor that threads in rather than trying to braze this back together. Thoughts anyone?

[lat 64]

I think that is oil.
An oil pressure gage sending unit or low-oil-pressure switch for ignition shut off. Not sure though

Russ

[Kurt]

Yep - that looks like you are referring to the oil pressure sending unit to me. Don, in his manual and elsewhere, actually recommends doing something else with the sending unit (such as installing it on a bulkhead), but I can't off the top of my head remember exactly what his recommendations are. Apparently, the original installation is sometimes prone to failure and instant engine damage. You could probably look that up on the forum and find an answer as to what to do. I don't think you will have to go down the route of brazing the broken tubing and it is probably a good time to make the recommended improvement.

[thatch]

"easy" fix

winterhawk,
It was not actually the oil pressure sender that broke off but rather the short piece of pipe (probably brass) along with it's coupling feeding the sender. An easy-out (one of the few recommended times to use one) is the easiest way to remove the short piece of 1/8" pipe left in the block. If you want to remotely mount this sending unit you can use either an off the shelf brakeline hose which has 1/8" pipe threads or a flexible lube gun extension hose which also normally has the correct threads. Just remember, if you use a flexible hose to relocate the sender you will have to add a ground wire to the threaded end to complete the circuit.
Tom

[lat 64]

Thatch,
I think brake line hose is the wrong kind of rubber. Rubber Brake parts will absorb and swell with oil. I once bought an old 4-wheel drive that someone had used a brake line to repair the fuel line. It swelled up and closed off the fuel.

there is good approved rubber oil lines.

[thatch]

oops!

lat 64,
You are surely correct in nixing the brakeline use for oil. I was just forwarding some info from a previous post and hadn't thought it through.
Tom
P.S. My daughter and I spent Christmas in Anchorage about 10 years ago and I can say without reservation that it was the memorable Christmas ever.

[sastanley]

oil pressure and tubing!

I assumed that the line would have been solid!?!?!?

I have a '91 Civic project/hobby car and I ran a soft (came with the gauge) plastic line to feed the sensor into the car for oil pressure. At idle, the pressure would read 10-12 PSI, which I thought was too low and freaked me out. While doing more work on my project car this spring (and having access to the block to remove the plastic tubing) I replaced it with a copper tubing kit for the oil pressure gauge, and magically the low pressure problem went away..so, I blame it on the soft line.

My $0.02 on soft lines for pressure readings if that is in fact the case.

[lat 64]

the right stuff

The right kind for pressure oil lines is super strong and good for a zillion psi.
It has barbed fittings that just push in with no clamps.
I'll go to our local rubber and hose store tomorrow and get the type and manufacture. I'll post manjana.

Stay tuned
See you at 5:00pm (zulu -9hrs)