Hot exhaust rebuild questions

[tombrcc]

My hot side exhaust completely rusted through, disintegrated with the lightest touch. I think the wrap was all that was holding it together. I have a few questions.

1 - any advice on removing the bolts for the flange? one is stuck and the other head broke off. I've been spraying it down with PB Blaster and plan to try an impact wrench after more soaking. On the one with the missing head, I'm hoping that after getting the flange off its just a matter of getting a good grip with a pair of locking pliers. Any extra advice is appreciated.

2 - when rebuilding with iron pipe how do you get proper tightness (torque) and angle alignment? I've read not to use sealant on the threads so just curious how to get everything to balance out.

3 - where can I get the 1 5/8" rubber hose that connects the water injection to the water lift muffler? Assuming West Marine. What's on there now doesn't look too bad but as long as I'm rebuilding this figure I'd replace that as well.

Any other random advice going into this?

[Tommy jones]

My hot side exhaust completely rusted through, disintegrated with the lightest touch. I think the wrap was all that was holding it together. I have a few questions.

1 - any advice on removing the bolts for the flange? one is stuck and the other head broke off. I've been spraying it down with PB Blaster and plan to try an impact wrench after more soaking. On the one with the missing head, I'm hoping that after getting the flange off its just a matter of getting a good grip with a pair of locking pliers. Any extra advice is appreciated.

2 - when rebuilding with iron pipe how do you get proper tightness (torque) and angle alignment? I've read not to use sealant on the threads so just curious how to get everything to balance out.

3 - where can I get the 1 5/8" rubber hose that connects the water injection to the water lift muffler? Assuming West Marine. What's on there now doesn't look too bad but as long as I'm rebuilding this figure I'd replace that as well.

Any other random advice going into this?

that looks just like mine, a broken off head on the lower bolt.....

As far as the alignment goes, i would buy a union. this will allow you to tighten everything up and then attach the entire hot section as one piece. It will also allow you to adjust the orientaion and make for easier removal if you ever need to take it back off.

[JOHN COOKSON]

My hot side exhaust completely rusted through, disintegrated with the lightest touch. I think the wrap was all that was holding it together. I have a few questions.

1 - any advice on removing the bolts for the flange? one is stuck and the other head broke off. I've been spraying it down with PB Blaster and plan to try an impact wrench after more soaking. On the one with the missing head, I'm hoping that after getting the flange off its just a matter of getting a good grip with a pair of locking pliers. Any extra advice is appreciated.

2 - when rebuilding with iron pipe how do you get proper tightness (torque) and angle alignment? I've read not to use sealant on the threads so just curious how to get everything to balance out.

3 - where can I get the 1 5/8" rubber hose that connects the water injection to the water lift muffler? Assuming West Marine. What's on there now doesn't look too bad but as long as I'm rebuilding this figure I'd replace that as well.

4 - Any other random advice going into this?

1 If you can get on the bolt that the head twisted off with a small pipe wrench you will be ahead of the game. Also tap on the bolts with hammer as well as using PB blaster.
2 Just snug the pipe down. Soon to happen corrosion and rust will complete the seal.
4 Studs rather than bolts are good idea. Do not tighten the s**t out of the new bolts or nuts. It will make them easier to loosen the next time.

TRUE GRIT

[Antibes]

When the head came off the bolt on mine I removed the manifold and removed the offender in the comfort of the garage workshop. Much easier than boat yoga. I had the help of a retired machinist, my dad to help gently tap it loose

[joe_db]

^
What he said. Take the manifold home and work on it there. Use studs next time

[sastanley]

Buying the studs from moyer, or even making your own solve this problem for the future. I've found the dry-exhaust replacement interval to be about 6-7 years. You can buy bolts and cut the heads off and carefully clean up the threads to make your own. I would use a threadlocker on the manifold side when I installed the studs...
+1 that it is much easier to deal with this on the bench if you can get the manifold off..(I would also buy the Moyer kit and convert that to studs when you re-install it.)