Fuel pump issue ?

[Scott Lynds]

Hi, the A4 in my Pearson 323 won't start and doesn't seem to be getting gas. I think it is the fuel pump which is mounted on top of the gas tank. When I took the gas line off at the filter and turned over the engine there was no gas coming out of the line. I blew back on the line and it is not blocked and I wa able to get gas when I sucked on the line. Just wondering if it could be something else before I go to pulling the pump off. I notice that the pump is warm to the touch after the starting attempts. The vent line on the tank is also free and open. Not very confident in my mechanical skills so any input greatly appreciated. Thanks, Scott

[Dave Neptune]

Scott, first welcome to the Afourian MMI Forum.

I assume it is an electric pump as it is on the tank and warm The warmth probably an electric pump getting power and not pumping. Check to see that you are indeed getting the 12v at the pump. Check the integrity of the OPSS as it may show some resistance.

The pumps small enough for the A-4 are mostly a pulse type. Sometimes they just get stuck and a ll tap will restart them. This is a sine of poor contacts in the pump and replacement is eminent.

Let us know a bit more and there is a wealth of info on the electrics on this forum.

Dave Neptune

[Scott Lynds]

Hi Dave Yes it is an electric pump. Not sure what you mean by OPSS. Thanks Scott

[quiesence65]

Our boat sat on the hard for an extra summer last year...(weddings in the family)....so this spring totaled 18 months without firing up my A4. Same thing....engine would not start in its usual reliable fashion.....so.....just tapped the electric fuel pump with the handle of a long screwdriver, and.....voila....started right up. Good Luck!

[ndutton]

The USCG specifies the fuel pump is to be within 12" of the engine it serves. (33CFR §183.566)
This might be a good time to make things right.

[Dave Neptune]

Scott, the OPSS ~oil pressure safety switch~is a safety device attached to the oiling system. This switch insures that you have some oil pressure before the electricity to the fuel pump is activated. It is usually mounted on flywheel end forward and below the carb where the oil pressure gage plugs in. Not all conversions were done properly so be sure and check for it.

The switch will be open and should close at cranking speed. An easy check with a volt meter. If you don't have the switch I'd advise getting one.

Try having someone crank and then just give the pump a lite tap. Do this after confirming good voltage at the pump, ie 12v. Also check the ground on the pump, you should have a wire grounding the pump to the engine system and the grounds need to be clean for good flow of electricity at 12v.

Most likely you just have a failing pump, just check the circuit out to be sure and then replace the pump.

Dave Neptune

[tac]

Fuel Solenoid?

Are you sure that it is "the fuel pump which is mounted on top of the gas tank"? As Neil Dutton pointed out, the USCG requires gasoline engine fuel pumps to be mounted within 12" of the engine. Regardless of where your boat was sold, Canada or the U.S., Pearson was a U.S. manufacturer and had to meet that requirement. Unless a prior owner mounted an electric pump on the top of that beautiful Monel tank, what you have on the tank top is a fuel shutoff solenoid, also to meet USCG requirements for anti-siphon. To my knowledge, all Pearson's with A4s have this solenoid. To verify this:
1. The label on my solenoid says, "FuelTrol Model C, 10psi, 11W, 12VDC, UL253D". Note: UL certification is also a USCG requirement.
2. On one side of the solenoid will be a screwdriver slot. This allows you to manually operate the solenoid with a quarter (half?) twist.
3. When you turn on the ignition switch you should hear a quite audible "Thunk". That will be the solenoid energizing (valve opening). It will also make a somewhat quieter thunk on closing when you turn the ignition off.

When energized, the solenoid will get warm (it's dissipating 11 watts of heat). Fuel flow though the valve body provides some cooling.

If you can blow and suck into the tank with the ignition switch on, try it with the ignition off. With the ignition off, if you can't blow into the tank, that's a solenoid valve on the tank top.

[Scott Lynds]

OK. My mistake. Sounds like it is the solenoid at the tank. Going to the boat tomorrow evening and will check things out more thoroughly. Thanks for all the input. I will update tomorrow evening. Scott

[tac]

Fuel System Components

Please don't feel insulted by the following simple description, but I don't know how much knowledge you have.

A common way of connecting the fuel system is as follows (photos are shamelessly taken from the Moyer online catalog, http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/s...rebuilder.html)

Starting at the fuel tank:
1. Solenoid valve (if any)
2. Primary fuel filter. Usually a large 4-6" diameter bulkhead mounted unit, like the Racor below.
3. Manual shutoff ball valve (recommended, but not necessarily in this position). If I remember right, it also must be Coast Guard approved.
4. Fuel pump. This might be electric (2nd photo), mounted on a bulkhead within 12" of the engine, or on the engine. Or, it might be the stock A4 mechanical pump (3rd photo) mounted on the engine just aft of the carb.
5. Secondary ("polishing") filter (4th photo), where used. Not required, but recommended. A small, inline, throwaway metal (plastic or glass is NOT USCG compliant for gasoline inboards. They tend to melt in a fire) filter.

[Scott Lynds]

Well I have figured out it's not a fuel issue anymore. I gave the fuel pumps a few cracks and she will start and stumble a little bit. I am going to change the plugs and see if that will make a difference. Was alone so could not check how strong spark was. Screws to distributor are rusted so wondering how I'm going to get that off. Scott

[JOHN COOKSON]

. Was alone so could not check how strong spark was. Screws to distributor are rusted so wondering how I'm going to get that off. Scott

Get a remote start switch to crank the engine when you are working alone.

Try a bit of PB Blaster on the distributor screws. If you can't get them loose you will have to pull the distributor. The fact that the screws holding the distributor cap are so rusted that you can't turn them makes the distributor a prime suspect.

TRUE GRIT

[Scott Lynds]

As it turns out a new distributor cap; rotor;condenser; points and plugs later she is purring like a kitten. So much for my initial trouble shooting! Scott