Easy distributor question

[positron]

I am tuning up and servicing the distributor for the first time- its been 3 years since I bought the boat. I was feeling a little cocky after replacing a refurbished water pump, so I thought I would take advantage of the improved engine access with the exhaust system already out. Last night in a fit of can-do over confidence, I pulled off the distributor cap and the plate with the points on it. This morning I read through the Moyer manual and I see that I should have set the engine to TDC first, so I can adjust the new points.

So... if I just put everything back together without adjusting the old points and don't tell anyone, is it likely to start again without further adjustment? Or should I replace all the tuneup parts and hope for the best? After reading through a lot of comments on this site it looks like it is best to start a tuneup with a running engine. I am hoping to wait until I can splash the boat and motor to its mooring point for the summer before performing a full tuneup. I am trying to figure out if I am already in for the proverbial penny.

Now for the easy question- I can't see where the bolt is that needs to be loosened to adjust/remove the distributor. I can feel a couple of candidates but I don't want to loosen the wrong thing and be unable to return to its original (running) state. (I tried a small mirror already- didn't help.) Depending on the answer to my other questions, I might want to pull the distributor so I can clean the centrifigal advance weights.

Thanks,
Terry, P30

[hanleyclifford]

In for the penny

If you have already pulled the breaker plate but have not loosened the distributor, the change in timing due to point replacement is not going to change your timing enough to keep the engine from running. But the best way is to pull the distributor and work on a bench. Don't worry about retiming; that's easy.

[marthur]

You haven't screwed up (yet)! I would recommend leaving the distributor as is where is for the moment and putting in the fresh tuneup parts.

I usually change my points without removing the distributor (or at least I did until I installed the electronic ignition). I don't bother to put the motor to TDC when removing the distributor plate. Install points and a new condenser. Clean the old points and put them with the old condenser into ziplock baggy and leave them on the boat. They just might get you home one day!

Reinstall the distributor plate and rotor. NOW you can rotate your engine until the points open as far as they will open. Measure them with your feeler gauge and adjust using the spec's in the moyer manual.

By the way, measuring with the feeler gauge is the easiest, but it is more accurate to use a dwell meter. I happen to have one from my dad's days in the garage, so I use it to double check, but it is not necessary.

Once you are done and the engine is running, double check your timing. If the old points were well adjusted, it will be pretty close and the motor will run. But you will want to tweak it for best performance. A timing light and timing marks is the precision method (once again I thank my dad), but a much easier and very acceptable way to do this is to loosen the distributor and adjust for maximum rpm. I do this when under way at standard cruising power. And don't forget you want the motor warmed up!

Good luck,

Mike

[marthur]

Messing Up

By the way, I put the "(yet)" in my post because of my own personal experience. When I tackle a DIY job t is only a matter of time before something goes wrong (i.e. I screw up something). And when I do a job perfectly, I rarely know to stop and enjoy it!

My errors range from epic (accidently sawing things in half) to the comical (sewing my shirt cuff to a canvas project and not being able to reach the seam ripper). So I try to relax and enjoy it--remember the price of the things you break / lose / needlessly replace is merely your tuition for the education you get in A-4 repair!

[sastanley]

Terry..I have some limitations at work, and can no longer upload pics (internal work issue..they do it on purpose..)

SO, all I can do is re-post pics already uploaded to Moyer's site..otherwise I'd put a big red circle around the retainer bolt. Notice the small metal collar surrounding the distributor shaft with the bolt going thru it just to the left of the distributor itself. That is the retainer bolt. If you pay careful attention to the position of the rotor (cap off) as you pull the dizzy off, and then put it back in the same position when you re-insert the dizzy into the block, you should be OK..otherwise..we just have to set the engine to TDC & place the distributor at the corresponding proper location which is sticking out away from the motor to starboard on your P-30. In this particular picture, the rotor would be pointing (roughly) towards the camera lens at TDC since the #1 cylinder on the distributor cap is the bulge to the left of the silver cap screw.

[roadnsky]

Here's a couple of extra angles (with arrows ) to add to Shawn's great explanation.
I just know how much Shawn loves Power Point presentations,

[hanleyclifford]

Uh...is that Brasso now being used on the alternator sheave?

[roadnsky]

Uh...is that Brasso now being used on the alternator sheave?

Very funny...

[positron]

Thanks for the great pictures. I can't quite see this bolt in my engine compartment but now I know what to feel for! Maybe its time to get my son involved while he is still small enough to fit back there.

[roadnsky]

One trick you might try is to just reach in where you can't actually see and just snap away with pictures. It's digital! Take a bunch of 'em!
Some, if not most shots, will give you a bird's eye view of areas you could never get your eyes on.
I've learned so much from this technique...

Then again, just throwing the kid into the bilge is a great way to train them too!

[sastanley]

Positron..by the way, I am pretty sure a 1/2" wrench is what you need. I 2nd Jerry's comment too. You can usually fit your hand and a camera in a lot of places your big noggin won't fit!

[67c&ccorv]

Positron;

Your thread is titled "Easy distributor question" - what year is your motor?

[positron]

I think the motor is original to the 1976 boat.

sastanley- I'm pretty sure it is not my noggin that is keeping me from squeezing back there.

[ArtJ]

You can purchase a racheting open end /box combination wrench at
Autozone and other places. This would help to loose the distributor
hold down which is most likely a 1/2 Inch. bolt in cramped quarters.

Or else could try a socket wrench with a universal flexible adapter.

Regards

Art

[sastanley]

Art, those ratcheting box end wrenches are the BEST thing since sliced bread on these motors & the tight spaces we often work in.

I bought a whole set from 8mm up to 25mm on fleabay, since all of my other motors are metric, but the tolerances are close enough my metrics work on the SAE stuff on the Atomic 4 just fine. I have the flex head style from GearWrench. The cost per wrench goes down exponentially when you buy a larger set..

Additionally, another tool I love is a 3/8" ratchet I have that also spins the socket when you twist the handle. This is great when you don't have any room to swing the ratchet. I am pretty sure it is made by Stanley...too bad I am not related to them...I'd be rich!

I'll have to upload a pic later..I am not allowed to add any attachments to posts anymore when I am at work. - However, if you google "Stanley Tools Rotator Ratchet", you'll find it. It is one of the best $25 I've ever spent on a tool.