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  #1   IP: 132.235.227.43
Old 11-17-2004, 06:33 PM
Andre' Andre' is offline
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Sinking Boat :)

Hello there. I own a 1969 Ericson 30'3 in Florida although I am school in Ohio. Last weekend I was down on the boat and notice that I had a small leak at the point where the drivetrain exits the hull going to the propellor. Having people already onbroad when I noticed it, I went for a quick cruise (2-3 hr) around the intercoastal. Upon my return to port, I noticed the leak was significantly worst and I currently have a sump-pump on board to keep the vessel afloat. Any solutions/suggestions (i.e. what normally wears out on the drivetrain of A4)? Does the boat need to be dry-docked to work on this? Or it is just a matter of fixing the leak in port?
Grateful, Andre'
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  #2   IP: 204.157.20.43
Old 11-18-2004, 06:31 AM
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Don Moyer Don Moyer is offline
 
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Andre',

You're apparently talking about the "stuffing box" which is intended to seal the prop shaft as it leaves through the hull.

It's normal for stuffing boxes to leak (I believe approximately one drop per 15 seconds). If you have significantly more leakage than that, I'd first try to tighten the large "gland nut" on the assembly, using a large spanner wrench, while holding the large hex part of the main assembly with another wrench. Large pipe wrenches may suffice in a pinch, depending on how much access you have to the area of the stuffing box.

Do not tighten the gland nut so much that it restricts the rotation of the prop shaft. If you can't control the leakage to a drip every 15 seconds or so without restricting the rotation of the shaft, it's probably time to replace the packing material, and perhaps even check the prop shaft for irregularities.

Best regards,

Don
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  #3   IP: 68.122.159.185
Old 11-18-2004, 10:46 AM
Blake Whitney Blake Whitney is offline
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Thumbs up Thanksgiving stuffing box--No turkey req'd

Andre'

First of all...Great boat. I have hull # 122 and have just turned the corner on a four year refit.

Access is not too swift to the stuffing box as it is under the rear edge of the fuel tank platform. Depending on the individual construction of the stbd sail bin, you shoul d be able to stand on your head and hopefully get a 1/4 turn or less ( per Don's comments) on the gland for an acceptable drip when under way. Reality is that the packing is probably shot and if like mine, the shaft scored at the point of contact. You can do a quick repack while in the water by tieing rags around the the shaft, ( yes, you are going in the water Mike Nelson ! ) and working fast.

The correct fix is to haul out, split the coupling, remove the half on the shaft, loosen the gland and remove the beast. Two set screws ( actually two locations with two set screws in each hole) releases the cutlass bearing which can be tapped out from the inside. Yes it is no doubt shot too! Replace your stern tube hose with one a bit shorter or longer so that the gland will ride on a fresh unscored surface. Now reassemble the whole contraption making sure you polish your shaft before insertion ( the boat's dummy ). Do a good clean-up on your gland ( here we go again ). No doubt the original, mine was well worn and a bit sloppy ( sorry ). Best call is to get a new one and use a teflon impreg packing. Mr. Gotbucks uses a spiffy dripless one (PYI) but it is certainly not necessary. It is not a hard job unless you have all thumbs.

Good luck and advise your success!
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  #4   IP: 205.188.116.134
Old 11-18-2004, 04:40 PM
dtinder dtinder is offline
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Cool Stuffing box

I totally agree with the previous posts---with a couple of added thoughts. We old guys like to use flax packing in the gland---but is important to get the right size--even though you can squeeze the heck out of any packing you put in there---best use the right size---and put in several "staggered" "scarfed joint" rings---usually 3 to 5 on most shafts. You can get the remains of the old packing out with a cork screw generally. This gets exciting if you do a total re-pack in the water. If you decide to start over with a new hose---any wire reinforced hose will work---but spend an extra couple of bucks and get "stuffing box hose" it is not wire reinforced but will last longer than water or exhaust hose. Amen to the idea of finding a "new" BEARING AREA---on the shaft for the packing to seal to----there are fixes for scored shafts---but you dont want to go there. Re the no drip seals---usually not a good choice for most sailboat engines--in my experience. Too much side to side vibration in the joint between the sealing faces. Use the stuffing box hose to absorb that vibration. One last thought on packing mat'ls. The white teflon packing is touted to be "no drip"---it works---but there is a fine line between a "hot" stuffing box
and a bilge full of drips---they are difficult to adjust to get a non-dripping box and also a cool box. Once you get the desired "drip" as per Mr. Don----a tiny adjustment every season (like 1/8 turn) should be enough---or until someone says "hey--where's that water coming from"? Good Luck
Dave in Ft Myers
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  #5   IP: 68.122.28.71
Old 11-19-2004, 10:03 AM
Blake Whitney Blake Whitney is offline
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More Stuff

Dave, Great follow up comments.

When I did mine in in '98 I used traditional flax packing and it is still working great.........But I probably have less than 50 hours on it! I was looking at the W/M catalog and either the Tef-Pac or even Moldable Dripless Packing looks promising. Why the ?

The drive train was a snap compared to what is ahead of me. The stringers on the original E30 ( Bruce Kings first boat drawn for Ericson by the way), were a steel frame that was dropped in mounted to a jig with a shaft attached for proper allignment, and then glassed in place. The engine is hard bolted to the stringer without flex mounts. No adjustment. After 34 years, on three examples I have seen, the area under the raw water pump is rotted away and looks like swiss cheese. After engine removal I could bend the stbd rear part of the stringer with my fingers .

Using the Stringer mounting holes, I built a removable framework (jig) and mounted it on cleats to the side wall. Upon removal the grinding began and the stringer rack extracted. After attaching flexible mounts ( bushings Inc.) to the jig and re mounting it, I was able to establish the where to build down from. Was able to mooch some Purple Heart scraps from the tall ship project in San Pedro and shaped them to fit the hull. After mounting to the jig and positioning on a glass mat bed, a dam of duct tape retained the soupy west poured in to fill the voids. With jig now removed. the new stringers were glassed in and wrapped with several layers of cloth and West...lots of West! Smooth as a baby's butt now.

The Laz, bins and engine compartment were completely gutted... not a wire or screw anywhere. All inards scrubbed, sanded, and any rough edges glassed and fared. A bit anal but if you are gunna do it.....

All has now been painted and looks brand new . It is so nice to have a clean slate! Spools of Ancor wire are at the ready for the next phase. Very tedious but well worth it.

The point is, that all of this stuff is really a no brainer. What I see as chalenging is getting my trusty rebuilt A4 back in it's nest and dead nuts alligned! With two small kids yanking on me, that'l probably this summer in time to start laying new LP on the decks. Thank God that prep is done too.


Love to hear from other E 30 owners!

Windbag Hull 122 , San Pedro CA
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  #6   IP: 68.79.140.44
Old 11-24-2004, 11:21 PM
Vicente Vicente is offline
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Good advice, I shall remember for I think my boat is due a packing replacement. Also, great sense of humor. Love to come to this site.

Thank you Blake.

Vicente
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  #7   IP: 67.161.30.230
Old 11-27-2004, 12:02 PM
ericson_35 ericson_35 is offline
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Dripless packing

Take note, when the fine print is read on the "Dripless" packing it clearly states "it is not drip free"...... just more expensive. I did the PYI drip free gland and very happy with it on me 'ol 1972 Ericson 35 with A-4. I no longer have to worry about the exact drip rate (is it 1 per 15 seconds or 1 per 20 or WHOA, it's pouring in at at dock!). Anyway, bilge is dry and I now have a device that will last hopefully 10 years + before replacing the carbon face seal.

It takes a bit of experience to get the stuffing box or gland set up right (as stated previously, slanted cuts, off-set or staggered joints and getting the right size and NEVER over tightening it to burn or score your shaft. You should be able to touch the packing nut/gland and only be warm to the touch. If it boils water, it be WAY too hot. On the other hand, if water is pouring in, it be WAY too loose. It's one of those every three year projects to replace packing to keep it right and doing it's job.

Ohhhhhh...and don't forget the rudder post packing gland as well.....so many people don't even think of checking that (if in fact they have one). Take a look at that if you have one.

John M
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